fuel pressure regulator ?

[old_master]

Originally Posted by shanes76

I cleaned the cap and rotor, the rotor looked new, the cap had like a white corrosion on the tabs ....

The "corrosion" is supposed to be there. When the distributor cap is replaced, silicone dielectric grease is applied to each terminal, inside and out. When the engine is running, the current passing from the rotor to the cap terminals crystalize the grease.

[shanes76]

ok, I will give it a try and let you know if anything happens

[shanes76]

so if my pressure holds without the return line being closed off that means my regulator is good and the pump is good as long as its with in specs? DO I leave my key in the on position or put it in the off position?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by shanes76

so if my pressure holds without the return line being closed off that means my regulator is good and the pump is good as long as its with in specs? DO I leave my key in the on position or put it in the off position?

You need to go threw the complete pressure test.
And post back all pressure readings.

[shanes76]

well I went and rented the tester and this is what I got so far
key on and engine off 56-58lbs
after 6 minutes it was down to 50
running was 54lbs and I reved it up and it dropped to 50 then went up to 56
I rented a complete fuel system kit but there is no way for my to hook it around the filter to test direct pressure also I dont know which line is the return line, and the only place I can see where they are rubber is above the tank

[shanes76]

also the book that came with it says the pressure should be 56-66

[MT-2500]

Specs are 55/61 lbs.

You can block return line to check direct fuel pump pressure.

You should run it a 1/2 hr or more with the gauge hooked up.

On the road you should see 56-57 light load and coasting and 59-60 on a pull heavy load.

The pressure you have is a hair low running pressure but should not be giving you much problem.
As long as you have good cold start pressure and the fuel pump test good on direct pressure after engine hot after 1/2 hr running.

[MT-2500]

I would check engine vacumn at idle and at 2K rpm to check for exhaust back pressure and slow time.

Give us your vacuum readings.

Have you set/checked base timing with bypass wire unplugged?>

[shanes76]

what about the fast leak down? how do I get the vacum readings? I dont have no cats or muffler on my vehicle- just goes into a cherry bomb and another straight pipe

[shanes76]

guess my leakdown is in specs- sorry bout that, no I havent got the timing checked yet, I did notice that I havent driven it since friday, and I went out to start it and pull it in the driveway today and while it was idling it didnt have the miss until it ran a few minutes

[shanes76]

also what do you mean by slow time? here are a few other things I should mention, when I start it the first time for the day and put foot on brake to put in gear, as soon as I pull it out of park it revs up then down, also if I have the cruise set on the highway and I tap the brake to stop the cruise it will do a short rev also- I know that its not normal. But today it was idling fine after starting and then when I put it in gear it was really rough, but if I give it a little gas it smoothes out, could it be my coil or ignition module? The coil looks rather old and kinda like a rusty color and I also noticed that when I had my distributor cap off- the 2 screws that hold the module down- the tops of the screw were burnt a white color- would that indicate moisture mabye under the module or something? looks kinda like the carbon tracks a cap would have on the inside on the metal tabs where the rotor fires- I have never seen any have the white substance on them

[Darren509]

Try using an AC Delco cap and rotor..

[InDeepShitNow]

I'm having the same issue! So far I've replaced ECU, TPS, MAP sensor, Fuel Pump, new wires and plugs, new cap, new rotor button, new coil, and ignition control module... Don't know what the issue is! It starts right up! Like nothing is wrong. But when I get in to drive, it backfires both in intake, and exhaust. That only happens when I floor it. It hesitates quite a bit, then finally gets going really nicely. But it's like I have to ease off on the gas pedal to get it to act half assed right, but still jerks and hesitates! It's not out of time. Don't know what the hell is going on! No engine codes are being thrown!

[shanes76]

only thing mine is doing is it has a miss while in park or at at light and surges at low speeds and while your on the highway you have no power, going up hills it drops to about 55 or 60 its like there is nothing there

[shanes76]

in deep- have you looked on the inside of your plenium for washing, mine had a bad hesitation when I got it and my return lines were leaking, and it kinda sounds like yours, mine didnt have any trouble starting and hesitated up to about the point of shifting in to 2nd then it would smooth out, you might want to check that, I took the big round thing off the top of my plenium and used a flash light and seen the drivers side was really clean and thats where the return lines are