Just a random Question???

[vanilla gorilla]

I think pulling the head and changing the head gasket is a little overkill. Reason being, most engines won't ever need a headgasket in their life span.

[david-b]

Originally Posted by vanilla gorilla

I think pulling the head and changing the head gasket is a little overkill. Reason being, most engines won't ever need a headgasket in their life span.

To me though it's a "piece of mind" deal. Pulling the head lets you see the inside and make sure everything is good in there. Plus, it wasn't stated if it's leaking oil or anything from it, so who knows.


As for changing everything out, most people get ALL the parts through the dealer which is recommended. I went through Part Dinosaur & ebay and got pretty much everything I needed for I believe about $300 or so. Going through the dealer you're looking at over $500. Just the stock OEM belt is ~$120 from them. Just don't go cheap on the actual belt. You don't want that ripping.

As for doing the actual job, buy a manual and read the part about doing the timing belt over and over again before actually digging into it. It's not hard, but depending on how much experience you have, it may not be that easy. The 2 "main" 420a people here (me and Silvr) have done this numerous times and can help you through if you need be. Also, there's pretty extensive walk throughs online with good pictures of the entire job and how to do it right.

[95eagle_talon]

i priced all the parts besides the headgasket and it came out to e around 300

[95eagle_talon]

Well guys today is the big day.....Get my talon!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[SilvrEclipse]

nice, post some pics

[95eagle_talon]

Well guys looks like it will be towmorrow ahhhh.....What do yall think about this turbo klit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-96...Q5fAccessories

[david-b]

Do not buy an ebay turbo kit. Just about everything in them is crap.
-Turbo is "ebay brand" that are known for breaking apart into pieces while boosting and can destroy your motor
-The wastegates are generally ass-quality pieces as well as the blow off valves. They're known for leaking and not holding any pressure. Those are 2 parts that you don't want to fail
-And I personally refuse to use any non-name brand fitting these days, such as in the oil feed/return lines. Too many problems with ebay-brand ones... plus, nothing about them is normal. I've replaced all of mine with good fittings
-The AFR in the picture are known for being sub-par as well
-That boost controller is crap as well


You never know, you may get a 'good' bunch of parts and have it all work out, but I wouldn't risk it. You can build a turbo kit for near the same price. My first setup cost about $1200 total, and this was using high quality parts where they needed to be used, and cheap when I could. Check out my turbo project thread in the Members Project section. The only things in that kit that I would personally use are the FMIC, piping, couplers/clamps and the manifold. Those you can get for like $250.

When you buy the car, do regular maintenance. Fix anything that is wrong with it now BEFORE you start modding.

[ned032002]

^+1.

Let's see some pics

[95eagle_talon]

Well guys just got home and i got my TALON.....Had to drive it about 60 miles to get home so it ran pretty good...only bad thing is it skippes at idle but when its reved up it goes away...Gonna put some plugs and wires on it and change the oil soon as possible then going to do the timing belt and stuff...Kinda dark outside so i cant take any pics but i must say IM VERY HAPPY RIGHT NOW....

[vanilla gorilla]

Put factory style plugs back in it. Im not sure what goes in a 420a, one of these guys could tell you.

[david-b]

Congrats on the purchase!
Any more details on the skip? Does the rpm drop or just feel like a mis-fire? Is it consistent or totally random? Definitely change the plugs first and see how that goes. Depending on mileage I would consider changing the fuel filter too if it wasn't done. Do you have a list from the previous owner of current repairs?

Go with NGK Platniums for non-turbo. Had great luck with those as n/t. They're a little more expensive than stocks, but run great. I forget the gap, but I believe they should be gapped accordingly out of the box (been awhile since I bought them). I would also buy (or rent) a compression tester at Autozone and do a compression test. This will tell you want kind of shape the motor is in internally. They're only ~$20, and if you start getting serious about this car, you'll use it often

Can't wait to see some pics. How many miles are on her?

Oh, lastly, there was a lifetime recall done on the lower control arms on these cars. I would call the local Jeep/Chrysler/Mitshu dealership and give them the VIN number. If it wasn't done, take it in and get them replaced. If it was, you can still take it in and have them reseal the joints. It's law that they have to honor the recall throughout the lifetime of the car. Save you ~$300+ worth of parts/labor

[95eagle_talon]

I have a compression tester in my tool box at work that i can use and its got 200k miles on it so im going to service it as soon as possible and ima check on that recall and trying to get some pics ass soon as i can but right now we are under a tornadow warning

[95eagle_talon]

Also guys something els i noticed. The SRS light and AniLock light on my dash is on. Can someone tell me why??

[david-b]

I don't have anitlocks on my car. Check the wires going to each that brake to see if they're cut or split anywhere. Lots of cars with Anitlock are good for breaking the sensors/wires on the brake itself.

[95eagle_talon]

ok ill check that towmorrow but wha about the SRS light?