2007 Suburban LTZ REAR END SLIP AND CLUNK at low speed.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by redddogg60

Yes, my wife drives this vehicle primarily, so we leave it in "AUTO" all the time as a safety feature. Could this have contributed to my current problem...? Is it possible that it is the transfer case? I hate going to the dealership "unarmed". I would like to bombard them with information. So please share.

the vehicle need be in 2WD at all times on dry solid pavement..this is part time 4WD..therefore when you go to the dealership for the warrantee DO NOT tell them this was always in auto 4WD...


when in AUTO the front axles are locked together,,this reduces MPG and increases drive train wear...

also with this vehicle ALL tires need be at the same wear pattern..this means tire rotations every 10-15,ooomi...with tires of different wear the drive train gets beat to failure...

[redddogg60]

Originally Posted by j cAT

the vehicle need be in 2WD at all times on dry solid pavement..this is part time 4WD..therefore when you go to the dealership for the warrantee DO NOT tell them this was always in auto 4WD...


when in AUTO the front axles are locked together,,this reduces MPG and increases drive train wear...

also with this vehicle ALL tires need be at the same wear pattern..this means tire rotations every 10-15,ooomi...with tires of different wear the drive train gets beat to failure...

I rotate the tires every 6K. The previous owner did not. Thank You for the info about driving in 2WD vs. Auto. My question remains....what do I tell them is the problem??? I want them to fix it this time as opposed to having to make 4-5 more appointments to get it fixed. Should I say "transfer case"? Or should I just be vague and say "something's not right, fix it please."??? I wonder if I can get one of the dealerships mechanics to drive it first? They always seem like they're knowledge is better than hands on experience. Thanks Again.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by redddogg60

I rotate the tires every 6K. The previous owner did not. Thank You for the info about driving in 2WD vs. Auto. My question remains....what do I tell them is the problem??? I want them to fix it this time as opposed to having to make 4-5 more appointments to get it fixed. Should I say "transfer case"? Or should I just be vague and say "something's not right, fix it please."??? I wonder if I can get one of the dealerships mechanics to drive it first? They always seem like they're knowledge is better than hands on experience. Thanks Again.

when a problem like this occurs the vehicle owner and repair tech should go for a test drive..the service manager need be told what exactly you feel is the problem and why ...and since they did nothing the last time I would point this out , of there past repair results...


the drive train has some issue and rather than guessing this needs front to rear drive train inspection...they replaced parts on a TSB that applied to your vehicle , most likely...since they did not repair this correctly the first time finding another dealer would be an option...as well...

they are the experts so they say ...they are supposed to correct problems/find solutions not the owner ..

[Siouxicide]

Update to my clunking....30,000 miles later. The '07 5.3L(83K miles) developed a noticeable squeak. An errt eet errt eet that changed tempo with the speed of the vehicle. I knew something was wrong but assumed a bearing and couldn't tell where. Then the other day, during acceleration only, I was getting a god awful grinding type noise. I thought something in the rear end was torn up. A mechanic insisted it was the U-Joint. I dropped the shaft, replaced front and rear and now squeals, grinding, and clunks are gone. Rear U-Joint was trash, although it was not externally noticeable. $30 for both and it was a DIY job. Just an FYI for anyone with my problem

[chevy06burban]

Originally Posted by Siouxicide

Update to my clunking....30,000 miles later. The '07 5.3L(83K miles) developed a noticeable squeak. An errt eet errt eet that changed tempo with the speed of the vehicle. I knew something was wrong but assumed a bearing and couldn't tell where. Then the other day, during acceleration only, I was getting a god awful grinding type noise. I thought something in the rear end was torn up. A mechanic insisted it was the U-Joint. I dropped the shaft, replaced front and rear and now squeals, grinding, and clunks are gone. Rear U-Joint was trash, although it was not externally noticeable. $30 for both and it was a DIY job. Just an FYI for anyone with my problem

I know this is an old post. My 06 Z71 suburban has been making similar clunk noise when coming to stop for a month now. It also had a pop noise when making left turns. That ended up being the sway bar frame mount bushings and sway bar support links. My mechanic has checked the brakes, transfer case, rear end, suspension, and driveline. He replaced the rear u-joints as a precaution, but she still clunks. Now I have had the inner tie rods, intermediate steering shaft assembly, and pitman and idle arms replace over the last 2 years. My mechanic says it doesn't clunk in 4wd, was raining good when he tested it. I only drive in 2wd but tested it myself in auto 4wd and traction control off and still getting clunk. Hasn't rained much to test in 4wd to make sure it doesn't clunk like my mechanic says. Anyone with updates would be appreciated, I love my truck and take good care of her so this is really stressing me out.

Thank you,
Lo

[maxwedge]

Some gm trucks had a clunk just before a full stop, the driveshaft front yoke would bind up in the trans rear housing, then release, causing a clunk in the drivetrain, gm has a special lube for the front yoke splines, not hearing your issue this is a maybe.

[chevy06burban]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

Some gm trucks had a clunk just before a full stop, the driveshaft front yoke would bind up in the trans rear housing, then release, causing a clunk in the drivetrain, gm has a special lube for the front yoke splines, not hearing your issue this is a maybe.

Yes that has been done as well, forgot to mention that. The clunk stopped for a day after lubing splines. Thank you

[Bscherrie]

I purchased a 07 chevy Tahoe LTZ 4x4 and about six months ago when I came to a stop (red light, stop sign etc. ) and started to accelerate it felt like I had been slightly rear ended or a small jerk in the rear end. I have taken it too the dealership several times and they can't determine the problem. It wasn't doing it at every stop but it has started doing it a lot more frequent. Has anyone found the answer. Please help!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Bscherrie

I purchased a 07 chevy Tahoe LTZ 4x4 and about six months ago when I came to a stop (red light, stop sign etc. ) and started to accelerate it felt like I had been slightly rear ended or a small jerk in the rear end. I have taken it too the dealership several times and they can't determine the problem. It wasn't doing it at every stop but it has started doing it a lot more frequent. Has anyone found the answer. Please help!

replace the transfer case fluid . call dealership and use the correct fluid. My transfer case uses GM TRACII transfer case fluid a blue color. use VIN # when calling for correct fluid use.. you will need 2 qts min...

you say they do not know ! they know !
MY dealership service manager knew exactly , and this was covered under warranty ... fluid change fixed it ...