Building a Box

[P11GT]

The general idea is to pack the box full of the wadding, its hard to say how much, but basically, right to the top. It seems like your taking up any air space with this stuff, but beleive me, thats what youre supposed to do. What i was told was to fill it, then try it, possibly try different amounts aswell. Basically, trial and error.

[NismoPC]

For lack of sleep and lack of more technical detail, the PolyFil actually makes the woofer think that it is in a larger sized box, therefore creating a cleaner, more defined bass response.

Almost like a resonator on an exhaust. Almost. Best comparison I could come up with. Without one, the exhaust has a buzzing sound, like a large ass bee buzzing around your head. With the resonator, the exhaust note is deep, mellow, and to some, me included, soothing to the ear.

There are others who could explain this in more detail, but I thought that would be a good start.

[Swonder67]

The polyfil actually slows down the sound waves, so that, what NismoPC said, makes it think there's a bigger box. Also, talking about what to make enclosures out of, I saw this picture in Sound Domain. its a box made out of plexi-glass. Check it out.

[Swonder67]

Here's the rear view. oh, and for the polyfil, you should use about 1 to 1 1/2 pounds of polyfil per cubic foot of box volume

[frogg]

Wow thats a cool box.
Only reason I wouldnt use Plexi is because it scratches too easy and costs too much.

[Kickercarg20]

Pexiglass boxes are near impossible to get right. They vibrate like bitch even if you do it right. And you're right they are expensive and hard to cut.

[Swonder67]

yeah, it is more flash than funtion, but it does look really cool.

[AznVirus]

im getting 2 sony xplod 10"s...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1288338321

THE DETAILS
10" High-rigidity compound Polypropylene cone
600W Maximum Input Power
Single 4-layer 4-ohm voice coils
Durable Santoprene rubber surround
Stroke Stabilizer
Double damper suspension
Gold-plated binding posts
Optimized for small enclosures

PRODUCT SPECIFICATION
Maximum Input Power -- 600 watts
Rated Input Power -- 150 watts
Impedance -- 4 ohms
Sensitivity -- 88 dB/W/m
Frequency Response -- 25 - 2,800 Hz

DIMENSIONS
Thiele/Small Parameters
Fs 26.6 Hz
Qts 0.43
Vas 1.75 ft.
Xmax 0.17 in.
Recommended enclosure size 0.7 ft. sealed


for the recommended enclosure size, does that mean for both or just one? isnt that kind of small? 0.7 foot? and so i should just buy a 300 watt amp that is bridged twice? im planning to make a wedge box for the subs.

[P11GT]

0.7 CuFt sounds about right.

If you want to use one box, then i suggest you partition it so that each sub has it own air space. Have a look at some of these designs, and if you want, i can supply you with the full details, better diagrams and measurements for you to build it yourself.

I still need the sub displacement to calculate accurately, the correct CuFt for each sub.

[AznVirus]

i want to build a wedge box, like diagram 2, except i want the subs on the angled part of the box. how would i find the sub displacement? i check the sony xplod site and it didnt say anything about sub displacement. can you give me the measurements of each side? thanks.

[AznVirus]

what kind of amp should i get? should i strictly get an amp that puts out 300 watts? how do i know how much power each sub will get? is there a way to give more/less power to a sub or speaker from the amp? or is it divided evenly? what is the difference between 2 channel/4 channel? and whats the difference between 2 OHMS or 4 OHMS? sorry for all the questions... but dont want to blow my subs? oh ya, and do you think overheating will become a problem?

[P11GT]

Right, first things first, worry about the amp later.

Ive no problems designing the box and getting all the sizes for you, hell, i can even tell you how big to cut each bit of wood and put it together like a jigsaw, but the main thing you gotta remember is, it may look really small in your boot. This is because of them being only 10 inch and also with the box only being 0.7 CuFt for each sub. The only way to find the displacement is to have a look at the spec sheet found in the box. I dont know if you could ask the retailer to have a look for you, or wait till you buy them. But it should be in there. Get me the exact model number..... theres no guarentee, but i could ask around here and try to find out for you. If all else fails, then i could use an estimate, which wont effect the performance, not that you could hear anyway, but its best to include some sort of figure.

Right, about the amp, i would suggest you join the subs in series, i.e. daisy chain, so you drop the impedence down to 2 ohms, then buy a 2CH amp that can handle 2 ohms and puts out around 100 watts RMS at 2 ohms Bridged. That'll be plenty of power for them. Dont just take my advice on this, ask around, suggest what ive said, and let me know what feedback you get. Never go for amps that claim 200, or 400, or 600 watts max, cos theyre just bullshit figures, go for the RMS value, it a true rating of power.

Lastly, i need some dimensions of your boot/trunk, where its gonna sit. I take it that i'll sit directly behind the rear seats, in the middle of your boot/trunk. Also, is it a hatch or saloon? Make sure you take into consideration, any parcel shelf mounted speakers which will come down when the boot/trunk is closed, therefore reducing the available height. Ive drawn a quick sketch of the measurements i'll need.

[AznVirus]

Originally posted by P11GT
Right, first things first, worry about the amp later.

Ive no problems designing the box and getting all the sizes for you, hell, i can even tell you how big to cut each bit of wood and put it together like a jigsaw, but the main thing you gotta remember is, it may look really small in your boot. This is because of them being only 10 inch and also with the box only being 0.7 CuFt for each sub. The only way to find the displacement is to have a look at the spec sheet found in the box. I dont know if you could ask the retailer to have a look for you, or wait till you buy them. But it should be in there. Get me the exact model number..... theres no guarentee, but i could ask around here and try to find out for you. If all else fails, then i could use an estimate, which wont effect the performance, not that you could hear anyway, but its best to include some sort of figure.

Right, about the amp, i would suggest you join the subs in series, i.e. daisy chain, so you drop the impedence down to 2 ohms, then buy a 2CH amp that can handle 2 ohms and puts out around 100 watts RMS at 2 ohms Bridged. That'll be plenty of power for them. Dont just take my advice on this, ask around, suggest what ive said, and let me know what feedback you get. Never go for amps that claim 200, or 400, or 600 watts max, cos theyre just bullshit figures, go for the RMS value, it a true rating of power.

Lastly, i need some dimensions of your boot/trunk, where its gonna sit. I take it that i'll sit directly behind the rear seats, in the middle of your boot/trunk. Also, is it a hatch or saloon? Make sure you take into consideration, any parcel shelf mounted speakers which will come down when the boot/trunk is closed, therefore reducing the available height. Ive drawn a quick sketch of the measurements i'll need.

ill tell you the exact sub displacement when i get the subs and the exact model # and all that when i get them. what do you mean join the sub in series? do you mean i should get a Sony Xplod amp? what is impedence? RMS is how much power is sent on a constant basis right? bridged means how many subs/speakers the amp can be hooked up to? it is a 2 door 200sx and ill get you the dimensions when i get it back, its in the shop right now. parcel mounted speakers are what?

oh and btw, can you redo the picture? the words are blurry and cant read what they say. thanks.

when you say "2 OHMS BRIDGED", does that mean that both subs combined puts out only 100 watts RMS? so 50 for each sub? Channels means how many different sub/speakers they can split the power to?


would something like this be ok for an amp?

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1289678061

[P11GT]

That Kenwood amp will do nicely Good choice. The RMS value is what power the amp is capable of producing. You can use any amp on any speaker as long as the speakers can handle what the amps can give.

That is 2 Channel, so what you do is follow the instructions given and use it bridged, i.e. it could be that you use the left channel positive and the right channel negative to achieve this. It will show you on the amp.

To lower the ohms to 2, you will need to connect one positive of one sub to the negative of the other sub, thus leaving you with one positive, and one negative at each end. So the power goes from the amp (+)into sub1(+), then sub1 (-) into sub2 (+) and sub2 (-) back to the amp (-). This is what you call "Series" (i'll do another diagram for this)

Parcel shelf (rear deck) mounted speaker are what you would class as rear speakers. Basically, i need to know if they stick into your boot space especially when its closed, thus reducing the available height, thats all. All these things have to be considered when making a box, so you know its gonna fit.

[P11GT]

heres how to connect in Series. Dont use the exact terminals as ive stated, the terminals used to bridge the amp will be mark clearly on the amp, just follow how ive wired the subs, then you'll be left with one positive and one negative at each side which connect to the corresponding amp terminals.