Ferrari 250GT SWB (Gunze/RM&M)

[rockinanko]

As always, ferrari projects like this never fail to make me drool!!!
let's see with all the expensive goodies, how this build will turns out.

[CrateCruncher]

I've made some progress with the SWB this week. Ive tried to concentrate on getting the basic parts to fit together. Being an offshoot of the Gunze GTO kit, the SWB shares many pieces so even without the mods I'm doing there would be fit issues.

I managed to raise the chassis about 3mm to get the ride height closer to scale. It seems cars from this era were really high. If you look at the first post in the thread there is a pic of the real car. Look at the tires relative to the fenders and how high the body sits relative to the ground you'll see what I mean. I notice the E-Type is like this too. Funny how the car got smaller as it was raised. I guess it's a perception thing. I also roughed up the body with some steel wool. Other than one minor sink around the rear license plate which was filled with a drop of CA, the body had no issues. (Almost makes up for all the crappy stuff in this kit.)

Sorry about the quality of this picture. I was trying to show the scratch work I've started on the door jam. I still need to add some filler and sand in a graceful curve at the bottom corner. At final assembly there will be a tiny lip around the entire jamb painted the upholstery color - probably black. I'm trying to decide on the body color between dark blue, blue metallic, pewter metallic or possibly red. As someone reminded me recently, when building a "typical" Ferrari always try to do something other than red because so many times you won't have any other choice.

This shot shows the dash fitting to the firewall and body. I really struggled to get this piece to fit. I ended up lowering it about 2mm and eliminating the front windshield and everything snapped into place. The front windshield is 1/8" thick and looks like it was chiseled from a rock! I'll substitute a piece of acetate in it's place. The rear glass isn't bad and I may be able to use it. The plan for right now is to pose the doors with the glass rolled down and just a small strip of glass (acetate) exposed.

I've also been working on door hinges. I have a hinge that works but is kinda bulky so I'm downsizing it. I realize this doesn't look like much in the way of progress but I've got to get the parts correct before any color can be applied. By the way, reading some of the WIP's I recall some folks having problems holding heavy metal parts together while dry-fitting. I'm using rubber cement on little stuff and white glue on suspension etc to temporarily assemble most of the parts. White glue holds stong enough to support a heavy model but peels off with a couple of flicks with a #11 blade. A few plastic parts had to be welded together with a drop or two of solvent.

[jano11]

It looks good!

For the color yellow and red suits this car best, IMHO. Blue can be OK too if it's not a dark shade.

[CrateCruncher]

Thanks for the suggestions Jano, I've got a while before I have to commit to anything. I've pretty much decided against the the metallics because they just don't seem to fit the period to me. I'm focusing on a solid blue right now close to Tamiya XF-8, maybe a bit lighter. I want a color that is dark enough to make the chrome pop. Thats why I'm hesitant with silver, the chrome just disappears.

Here's another update picture. Success at last with a door hinge design that put the rotation point where it belongs without rubbing the the leading edge of the door skin against the body. I've discovered door hinges are tough, especially getting the leading edge to tuck into the body in a scale-like fashion. After scrapping a clunky aluminum tube and plastic attempt I built a new set from .003 brass sheet and 1/32 wire for the pin.


Below is a photo of an SWB Ferrari hood hinge. Since the hood will be open on this model most of the time the underside of the hood deserved a bit more detail than I would normally do. I added some strip for frame and hood hinge brackets. The hood hinge was made from straight pins and aluminum tubing. It was actually pretty easy compared to the door. My only concern is radiator swing clearance.


I still need to complete the passenger side door hinge and adjust everything before I can begin primering but having that door working is a big milestone for me.

[jano11]

You did a wonderful job with the door and hood hinges.
I'm thinking about doing the same on the Italeri I'm preparing right now (in fact it will be a model built using Gunze chassis and suspension and Italeri engine, body and interior).

Some blue 250 GT Ferraris (not SWB Berlinetta's):
http://www.anamera.com/en/detail/car...cache=1&ret=63
http://www.anamera.com/en/detail/car...cache=1&ret=63
http://www.anamera.com/en/detail/car...cache=1&ret=63
Maybe it helps you with the color choice.

Anyway I'm following your project with interest!

[builder77]

Wow excellent job so far.
Can you get some pictures of your door hinges?
I need to make some for my cobra.
Chris

[CrateCruncher]

Thanks for those reference pictures Jano. I'm glad I don't have to commit to a final color for a while. The Lusso is closest to the color I was thinking of but who knows...

Builder, I'm regretting not taking more photo's of my hinge fabrication. I assumed it would put folks to sleep. I'm still new at this "build thread" stuff so have patience. I just learned photo editing a day ago!

Maybe this will help:

I built my hinges using brass sheet and wire but you could make it from coke can aluminum and a straight pin or whatevers on hand. Don't use ca glue on the hinge flaps though. It will wick into the hinge mechanism and destroy your work.

[CrateCruncher]

I needed a little break from bodywork and decided to do another finish piece as a temporary change of pace. Anyone that has been in these old Ferrari interiors is instantly attracted to the composite wooden Nardi steering wheel. They just seem to convey everything great about the artisanal craftsmanship of that lost era. I've been thinking of a way to replicate the Nardi wheel in miniature for a while. My intent was to first attempt it in 1/12 or larger scale but what the heck...


I first layed out a graphical depiction of the composite wheel, then made a 1mm aluminum ring from an annealed coke can. I then used boxwood strip to make 8 little pieces to fit around the circumference of the rim.


The hard part was sanding the inner radius and keeping the shape round as I slowly sanded away 90% of the wood and even some of the aluminum ring. Although the structure is remarkably strong I did manage to fold it up into a taco at one point. It straightened out and realigned without too much trouble.


It has exceeded my expectations to say the least. It began merely as an experiment but after about 4 hours of labor this tiny part is showing promise. I still need to thin it down a bit more and add a little stain to bring out the grain but definitely something I will do again.

[AustinMartin]

That steering wheel is VERY impressive!

[jano11]

Very nice job on the steering wheel!
I'll try it out when I'll build my Berlinetta.

[klutz_100]

Uber-cool!!!

I've been wanting to try that myself - thanks for showing it is possible rather than buy the RMoM(?) wooden wheel. First class job

[builder77]

Thanks for the information on the hinges.
That wheel is amazing.
Chris

[druid_99]

Nice work on both the hinges and the steering wheel.

I will definitely try the method you used for the steering wheel. One question on the wood. Can I use balsa rather than the boxwood or is it the same?

[robrex]

That steering wheel is truly a work of art!

[CrateCruncher]

Originally Posted by druid_99

Nice work on both the hinges and the steering wheel.

I will definitely try the method you used for the steering wheel. One question on the wood. Can I use balsa rather than the boxwood or is it the same?

Thanks for the support guys! It really helps keep me motivated on such a long project. Druid, sorry about taking so long to respond to your question, I missed it somehow over the holidays. I prefer boxwood for such tiny work because, being a slow growing plant, the wood is very dense and the grain is very small. The problem I have found with balsa is that the grain is too large and the structure to porous to look good in such small sizes. If you are having trouble locating boxwood strip Model Expo has it. They cater to the wooden ship crowd. The stuff I used was 1/8" x 1/32" strip.

Edit: After thinking about this more I think one could use basswood with good results also. I think Norm uses mahogany in his R&MM wheel kits and may be a bit dark for that honey-colored Nardi look. A tiny strip of mahogany inlaid within the boxwood would be the ultimate in scale fidelity but I can't for the life of me figure out how it could be done with precision. Here's a link to the wood strip at Model Expo: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/sear...1.x=13&B1.y=14

2nd Edit: I discussed the wheel with Norm Veber of R&MM who tells me the wood he uses is cherry.