Who can solve this???

[enook]

Originally Posted by enook

Does anyone know what exactly this is? Also some more of those black wires are going into an even bigger black box of some kind...

[Leeann94astro]

Looks like an aftermarket remote starter module to me. They always have 2 modules. That says something about FCC, yes?

[Airjer_]

Pink supplies power to ECM 1 fuse among other things. This supplies power to injectors, crank sensor, module etc.

Yellow wire goes to the crank fuse wich goes to the nuetral safety switch.

No pink with white but maybe its red with white which is the power supply to the switch from the ignition b fuse.

There should be power on the pink while cranking and running. There should be power on the yellow when cranking only. There should be power on the red/white all the time

[enook]

Originally Posted by Leeann94astro

Looks like an aftermarket remote starter module to me. They always have 2 modules. That says something about FCC, yes?

I actually think it is stock now becuase there is a place where it clips on by the parking brake. So I think it is supposed to be there. Maybe for the keyless entry?

FYI The 'security' light flashes until i get in and shut the door.

I am still stumped.

Can someone tell me if those black wires are supposed to be spliced into those ignition wires?

[Airjer_]

Might help to post a pic of what you are talking about. Nothing should be spliced into those wires!

[enook]

OK I will take a picture and post it tomorrow. WHen those wires are unhooked it will crank but not fire. When those wires are touching the ones they are spliced into, it wont even crank.

I will see what I can do tomorrow.

[Blue Bowtie]

That is a factory keyless entry receiver.

I would suggest checking the theft deterrent system wiring as well as the ignition switch.

[enook]

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

That is a factory keyless entry receiver.

I would suggest checking the theft deterrent system wiring as well as the ignition switch.

I put a brand new ignition switch in. @When I hook up the new ignition switch the truck will crank but will not run. WHen I splice in those black wires that were spliced into the OLD ignition switch, the truck won't even crank.

Do you guys think that if I hook up the ignition switch properly (without those black wires spliced in) and then install a switch to bypass the passlock II it will run?

Thoughts?

[enook]

PICTURES!!!

Here are those black wires...you can see at the bottom where that one was spliced into the pink wire.


One black wire was spliced into the pink, one into the red/white stripe and then the yellow wire was cut and two parts of the black wire went into either end of that.





The black wire goes back through whatever the heck the smaller wires are:


It looks like those black wires go into that 'top black box'. Is that passlock II box?




Are these the wires I work on to try the passlock II bypass switch? WHat wires do I work with?

[Airjer_]

Originally Posted by enook

PICTURES!!!

The black box with the orange wires (lower left) is the remote reciever. The black box above it is the one I am wondering about. What do the connectors look like on that? The extra wires and the coiled up wires (small black and white) look like they go to that and that does not look O.E.? If I had to guess I would say that that is a remote start and may be the cause of the problems.

[enook]

SO if it is a remote start ( I dont even have a remote for it and didn't know it had it), how can I get this truck started?

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by enook

Also, while towing the truck the other day I had to get a boost to put the truck in neutral. WHen I was hooked up to another truck I turned the key and it started! I went for a ride and it worked perfect!

This may sound really stupid, but ONE of your problems may be a loose battery terminal or corroded wire. If it started while jumpered to the tow truck, it sounds like a battery/cable/connection issue. I know you just replaced the Battery, but check the cables.

Also, connect the wire so that it will at least crank, and turn the key to "ON". Do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds? There should be a shrader valve ( like a Tire Valve) on the fuel manifold, if you push it does fuel squirt out?

[enook]

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

This may sound really stupid, but ONE of your problems may be a loose battery terminal or corroded wire. If it started while jumpered to the tow truck, it sounds like a battery/cable/connection issue. I know you just replaced the Battery, but check the cables.

Also, connect the wire so that it will at least crank, and turn the key to "ON". Do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds? There should be a shrader valve ( like a Tire Valve) on the fuel manifold, if you push it does fuel squirt out?

When I turn the key I do not hear the fuel pump prime. The only time it does this is when the truck will actually start for me.

[discnik]

Try the "Passlock" thread on "new posts" it tells how to by-pass the passlock II system. Good luck

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by enook

When I turn the key I do not hear the fuel pump prime. The only time it does this is when the truck will actually start for me.

It sounds like you have more than one problem going on here. If you do not hear the fuel pump prime, meaning it is not running, that is probably why it will crank but not start. As far as all of those loose wires, it sure looks like someone tried to install after market accessories. Try rigging it up so it will crank and try to verify the fuel pump issue. Again, see if you have fuel squirting out of the manifold shrader valve. Some models had a connector on the driver's fender wall inside the engine compartment that was a direct link to the fuel pump. if you can find it, rig it up to see if your fuel pump is running or not. Some of these alarms and anti-theft devices were tied into the fuel pump circuit as well as the ignition circuit to prevent the truck from starting.