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#16
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Re: Head Service
So have you removed the starter? There is not much cleaence on either side of the motor or tranny, that why you have to push both of them apart. Just pushing the motor to the side wont give you enough room. Also under the tranny there is a small inspection plate that will hold the flywheel on. Did you remove that?
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98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#17
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Re: Head Service
I did remove the starter. I can see the starter gear. I removed a plate on the bottom which goes from the transaxel to the block (well unscrewed from the block, not the tran-side). Is this what you're referring to?
So The trick is to unmount engine, secure with the hoist, unmount tranny, support with a jack, and that should give me enough room if I push the tranny towards the drivers side of the car, and pull engine passengerside, then up and out? Btw silvereclipse: I saw your engine rebuild thread... nice
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#18
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Re: Head Service
Quote:
Yea thats what you got to do. I was on the tranny side and had my friend on the motor side and we basically just kept pulling and shaking them untill they came apart. Its not that hard if you have everything apart. If you cant get them separated go back and make sure nothing is holding them together.
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98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#19
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Re: Head Service
Alright, looks like i might have to recruit some help for this one. How bad is it to get it back together??? Would suck to not be able to get 'er back in :-/
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#20
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Re: Head Service
The hardest part is getting the input shaft into the clutch disc. I think it took about the same time to take it out as it did to put it back in. Much easier than removing the whole tranny with it.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#21
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Re: Head Service
Perhaps I'm dense, but i spent about another 4 hours trying everything I can to get this apart. I did figure out why i wasn't getting it last time.... there's a plate on the bottom of the transaxle which will prevent the flywheel from coming off. I removed it(which required I remove the clutch slave cyl.
I've removed all mounts, and clutch slave cylinder from the tranny. It appears to now be supported by only the axles and the jack I have underneath it. The engine is supported only by the hoist and it's connection to the tranny. I'm getting quite a bit more space between them now, butI still cannot get enough clearance to pull it out. It's almost as if something were holding them together. I was by myself, so I didn't get the best angles to do this, but I think i would of gotten it had something not been jammed. Even with prying the two apart I seem to run into the pasenger side of the engine bay. When I'm pulling them apart it looks like the flywheel as well as the clutchplate and all are coming with the flywheel. Is this right? I just feel like i'm missing something here.... ![]() Did you remove the crankshaft damper pulley before trying to pull this out? Looks like i'd have to remove the other pulley in the rear as well to help this way, but have no idea how i would get a puller on that one... Any advice is greatly appreciated. It's late now and i'm heading to bed. zzzZZzzzZZZzz |
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#22
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Re: Head Service
I did not remove the pulley but it may help you get more room to work in. Try raising the motor and lowering the tranny some. You just have to mess around with it untill you get it. Its also a lot easier with 2 people.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#23
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Re: Head Service
When I raise the motor it starts pulling the tranny up as well, which is why i'm thinking something connected. It may just be the tight fit however. I'll try pulling the crankshaft pulley tonight and see if it helps. I don't have anybody to help me right now... I'll see what I can do.
The entire clutch is supposed to come out with it right? Connected to the flywheel? |
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#24
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Re: Head Service
Try tilting the whole assembly. Raising up the left side of the motor and lowering the tranny. If I remember right there is metal blocking the tranny from moving to far to the left so try and get under that.
Yes the clutch assembly should come out with the motor.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#25
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Re: Head Service
Will do. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know if I have any luck.
On a side note, are there any precautions i should take when cleaning out the engine bay? It's pretty bad in there. I had a slight oil leak from the valve cover which coated a lot of the wires on the left side of the engine with oil. Most everything else is coated in road grime. Is regular soap and water OK to clean with? Is spraying with a hose OK after the engine is removed? I'm assuming everything that has electrical connectors should already have dielectric grease on them and prevent them from corrosion. Plus just letting it air dry pretty quickly will help prevent this as well. The block will be cleaned and repainted. the valve cover is in good shape, but needs cleaned. Can I use kerosene on it without ruining the stock black finish? It looks like powdercoat. Do most people leave the head unfinished? |
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#26
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Re: Head Service
Thanks Silvr, That did the trick with a bit of tugging. Now I'm baffled by the electrical connectors on the back of the block. I have tried 100 different ways of getting these to let go, but no luck. I'm going to break them if I try any harder, there has to be a trick to it somehow. See linked pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/perfect...ty/2850210065/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/perfect...ty/2850209945/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/perfect...ty/2850209879/ Can you provide any help here? |
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#27
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Re: Head Service
The red tab has to be slide over to replease the connector. Its just like the coil pack. You should be fine washing out the engine bay.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#28
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Re: Head Service
Wow, I feel like a fool now. :-/
I knew it'd be something simple. Thanks. It'll be coming out tonight!
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#29
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Re: Head Service
Well, sorry for not updating in so long... I have been making progress, but been quite busy to post pics on internet yet. Anyway, updates are here: http://perfected-insanity.blogspot.c...n-engines.html
tonight I pulled water pump and pipe off the block, pulled oil pan, and removed the pistons and have them soaking in kerosene to clean some of the burned on gunk off. Is there any better way? Some of these deposits are quite hard... Also, whats my best bet for cleaning the head? I borrowed a valve spring compressor from autozone, but it;s the screw type and I dont think it's going to fit over the springs the way they sit in the head. Looks like i'll need to borrow one of these type??? http://www.pbase.com/rmscott/image/50719711 ?? Also, whats your fav online store for ordering parts? I'll be doing that soon. I've used this site in the past www.autopartswarehouse.com , but it's sometimes hard to find replacement bolts for broken ones and such. I'd love to be able to pick out parts from a schematic like this bike site: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...0-1985/o/m9661 |
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#30
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Re: Head Service
When you pull the pullys with the puller (tongue teaser) Take the bolt all the way out then thread it back in 3-4 threads and use the puller to screw down on the bolt head, then itll break it loose remove the bolt and remove pully with your hand its extremely easy after its broke loose. We just did mine about 2 weeks ago, and I Suggest you leave the motor in the car, It wasnt that hard to do, the hardest part leaving the motor in is the intake bolts. You will also need to use a floor jack to move the motor around to get some of the bolts out. We did it in about 8 hours of work time from start to finish just swapping a different head in and a new belt.
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