Tie Rod Ends: What torque for castellated nut on steering arm?

[sad-lumina-owner]

Phew!

My mechanic friend came over to save me from blowing money at a garage.

We went to an alternate part/tool supplier and got a kit with high quality forged steel tie rod removal tool, balljoint tool, and pitman tool, with TWO base attachments: one rod for hammering and one that fits into an impact hammer.
These are three forks, like the picture above.

This cost us $75 (half price from $150!) awesome deal.

We went back and heated the joint and taper-post with a propane torch.

Then used BOTH the small and medium(balljoint forks) together as an extra wedge.

We also propped up the post with another post jack, pushing up on it from underneath.

Several hard bashes with a sledge finally popped it off.

Good thing too, because the balljoint case was cracking and threatening to come off of the ball joint, and so when we got started, we couldn't go back. We had to get it off and put on the new one.

The marks we had made were still fine for aligning the tie rod vertically and also getting the distance to the new grease nipple (centre of ball joint) just right.

Assuming the alignment was fine before, there is no difference. The new tie rod end balljoint is sitting exactly where the old one was.

The only thing that can go out on this job is the toe-in.

YAY YAY YAY!

Instead of spending $75+ to have someone else get this stubborn taper out, I now own a high quality set of balljoint/pitman arm removers, that also attach to an impact airgun!

Makes me want to go and buy the airgun for my garage...