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| Engine, Transmission and Drivetrain Discuss Engine, Transmission, Drivetrain, and all other performance modifications here. |
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#16
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Re: New Engine!
update on this amateur engine replacement segment....
couldnt get the axles out at all.. idk why.. i ended up taking all the control arms and shit off but still can't seem to get the axle off.. any ideas? also.. there is ONE bold on the transaxle whatever case.. that is under the intake manifold and above the front right axle.. that is IMPOSSIBLE to get to.. from my viewpoint.. but obviously it's not.. any help? i'll post pictures and stuff after i take a shower .. i'm hella filthy.. also.. how to relieve fuel presure when the engine doesnt work? thanks a bunch |
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#17
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Re: New Engine!
The axles have a "snap-ring" on them if that's what's holding them on. I just take a pry bar and pry them off using the casing of the axle and the casing of the tranny. Sometimes you have to really pry on them to get them off, but don't be worried to use some force, they'll eventually come. But becareful when you take them out, have a rag handy, as all the tranny fluid will drain out of the axle holes until you get them plugged up.
As for the fuel pressure, don't worry about it. I've never relieved it and I've swapped about 6 motors out of my RS alone. I usually just crack the line that I'm removing and let it leak out until the pressure is gone. You'll have some residue afterwards, but it's nothing to worry about. |
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#18
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Re: New Engine!
what if i drop the tranny with both axles attached? i've cleared the way on both sides and under the tranny.. it was sort of my last resort last night.. but i still haven't dropped it cuz of that one bolt.. will it be bad if i leave the axles on?
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#19
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Re: New Engine!
You could drop the tranny with the axles but Im sure it would kinda be a pain with them flopping everywhere. I would drain the fluid in the tranny and replace it also.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#20
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Re: New Engine!
fluid is already drained.. i'm taking the intake manifold out to get to that dreaded bolt i was having a problem with =) you guys are a HUGE help you dont know how thankful i am
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#21
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Re: New Engine!
thanks to all of you guys.. especially gthompson.....
BAM!
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#22
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Re: New Engine!
i will be posting a new thread on how to put the engine back in.. as the problems occur (they always do)
By the way, how do you take the clutch out from the driveplate.. or whatever that round spinny gear is? (technical terms ofcourse) |
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#23
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Re: New Engine!
The clutch is a modular clutch, there should be four bolts on the back of the drive plate that hold it on.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#24
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Re: New Engine!
i know but how would you get it out without the plate turning? i dont have an impact wrentch =\
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#25
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Re: New Engine!
When I did it with the motor/tranny still in the car, I used a prybar in the starter hole to hold the flywheel from turning. You may bend up the steel "gasket" between the two a bit, but it easily straightens out with a few swings with a deadblow hammer.
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#26
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Quote:
love the technical terms and precise instructions |
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