s10 4l60e trans slipping

[MT-2500]

No details needed.
Engine has to be running good for the transmission to work good.
If you have codes engine or transmission or body codes fix them.
If spak is jumping fix that to.
The clear codes and recheck.
Good luck
MT

[boss429]

ok just got the truck back from the trans shop they went over the trans with a snap-on scanner while it was driving . they said there is a slip in the 2nd gear they believe it to be the clutchs for 2nd gear. they told me that all the electrical parts are opening and closing when they should and that the tcc is working as it should. so they said i should have them flush the trans and see if that works. and if not they will have to pull it and rebuild it. which is ok as long as thats is really the problem .because i have always thought that you would still get some kinda code saying what the problem was for the most part. so you where not guessing on what the problem was but i don't know . anyways i am not thinking its not just one clutch, because my problem happens if i shift manually from 1st 2nd 3rd and drive it still lags after 2nd gear shift. it also happens if i put it into drive and take off it takes a-lot of rpms to get the truck moving now and again and after 2nd or maybe at 2nd it slips or lags truck kinda holds back like riding brake or clutch and engine revs up then truck pickups up again after a minute. but where my problem gets me confused is every now and then i will put the truck in reverse and it will take alot of rpms to get the truck moving so most of the time i put it in R and it won't want to move so i shift to D move forward some then put it back in R and it goes in R just fine after that. so if it needs a rebiuld then so be it but if not i will only fix whats wrong. any ideas would be a great help before i hand over 1,500 for the rebuild.

[Spectria, L1 MT]

Originally Posted by boss429

could you possibly go into some more detail as to why the trans will act up when the engine is not running right. cuase the engine was not missing from what i see it just had a arcing wire that would arc ever 5 or 10 minutes when reving. some more details as to why the trans will do that will help me alot.

It still sounds like you have a Valve body problem, with the intermittant engagement of different clutchs and bands. Probably this has resulted in damage to clutchs and bands after the many tests you driven.

Your shifting problem seems from the past comments to be electrically sourced. I don't know if the Snap-On Scanner reads only codes if a solenoid actually malfunctions internally, or if the codes are actual indications of low pressure in a given shift.

You are taking a chance that you are getting an incomplete shift due to an electrical solenoid not allowing full fluid flow and pressure to a clutch or band, and this could (with your admitted heavy foot) shred or burn out the friction discs and warp the metal discs and destroy your otherwise good trans.

Most trans shop probably don't want to do a partial in car repair of solenoids and valve body work and risk hidden damage to the clutches and bands.

Does your trans fluid smell burnt?

$1500 sounds like a good deal, I wouldn't touch it for under $2600 here in Sunny California.


ps; The mis you said was occurring every 5 to 10 minutes was constant and ongoing as long as those bad wires were on your car, and your Torque converter won't lock-up ever if your foot is to the floor.

[MT-2500]

I would hold on the flush.
A good pann drop and filter change would be best.
And also see what is in the bottom of pan.
Has the range switch code been fixed?
MT

[boss429]

the range switch code has been fixed although i still don't have a light in p or N the only indicator lights that show are R D 3 2 1. P lights up for a second when the truck is turned on then goes out. as for the spark plugs wires they where only arcing for 1 day at the most before i put a new set on. the trans shops showed me the scanner and it shows on the screen when each solenoid opens and closes but im not sure about the pressure thing. i will be dropping the pan this weekend to see whats in it. as for the fluid ive been driveing the truck to work and back and gas station now and then which is only 8 blocks from me both work and gas station for about 2 weeks now and i still don't have a burnt smelling fluid and the trans still feels the same when it slips or whatever it is doing. some days it won't even at up going to work but then it will coming home . but now then ,when i drop the pan if there is nothing in it metal or clutch material what should i be looking at then and if i decide to pull my trans and open it up what should i look for to find my problem or problems. i have worked on manual transmissions before and some autos from my step dads cars which are mostly 60's and 70's muscle cars so i have a general knowledge of transmissions but this would be my first fully electric trans. i know if i drop my pan and stuffs in it i need a rebuild or a new trans whichever i find cheaper. all i know is i need to fix this soon cuase its killing my gas mileage and at 4.00 a gallon i need the best i can get.

[boss429]

well found my problem today i decided i would drop the pan to see what all was in it and i found that whoever put my last trans filter in was being kinda lazy that day and never fully seated it which in turn caused my filter to fall out. so my trans was not getting the proper amount of fluid all the time. so $15 new filter and $18 for trans fluid and the truck back to running like a raped ape

[MT-2500]

Glad you found the problem.
But.

The filter should not drop down or out.

Make sure it is the right filter.

The newer deeper pans take a little longer/thicker filter.
If the old style short /thin filter is installed it will fall down.
Good Luck.
MT