Cylinder Valve Job :)

[metro_roy]

You shouldn't need new pistons unless one is broke.

[94metroxfi]

Well everyone, got the oil pan off. All pistons are out and in their proper bag. Very easy, I actually could push the whole piston out with my finger.

How hard should it be to move the piston while holding the rod?

[DOCTORBILL]

When I pulled the pan off and took the rod bearing caps off, my pistons moved
almost effortlessly - seemed without friction almost!

However, they did not want to be pushed out the top of the block quite so effortlessly -
due to the ridge at the top which should be reamed away.

It is surprising how little friction the rings have with the cylinder wall.

I used normal rings - didn't need bigger rings because my cylinder walls were
not worn very much at all.

I cleaned all the carbon off the top of the pistons and out of the ring slots.

Don't forget to position the Ring "End Gaps" correctly....
.


Sounds like you are well on the way! Congrats!!!

Now keep everything clean (no grit around) especially when putting the new rod
bearings back in.

You will soon have a seemingly new engine and 45 - 50 mpg.

The first start up may scare you - no oil in the pump for a few seconds makes
quite a nasty sound!
You might want to run the starter motor w/o plugs to distribute the oil before
actually running the engine.

Be DAMNED SURE that you don't forget to tighten the Bolt holding the timing
pulley on - like I did! Dumb......

I'm lucky nothing got busted! Had to buy another used Timing Pulley at the wrecking yard.

That really nasty spray paint stripper (Klean-Strip) will clean your pan gasket
surfaces off well. That and a new single edged razor blade or a sharpened wood chisel...

Let it soak for 30 minutes. Don't get it on your skin - it burns! Use it outdoors!

DoctorBill

PS - Are you taking pictures ? For posterior.....

[94metroxfi]

Pictures sure.

Quick question for you though Dr. B....

What did you all replace? I seen Rod Bearings, and rings, what about main and thrust? I don't want to do these if it isn't necessary.

I have no ridge at all So I am going to hone cylinders and do ring gap, once that is done, should all be back together in about 4 hours.

[metro_roy]

I've not worked a lot on 3 cyl man Metros, just my 4 auto. In reading your posts, I don't think you've pulled the engine right? So here's my question for the experts to help you out. Can the crank be pulled from this engine while still in the car? Although I replaced the crank bearings and seals on my engine 5 years ago, I've since read that these parts really don't wear much on the Geo if the engine oil has been replaced at reasonable miles.

[94metroxfi]

Engine is still in car. I am doing this just as Dr. B did.

[DOCTORBILL]

I just did the Rings and Rod bearings - with the engine in the vehicle.

I was told that I'd have to take the engine out to replace the crankshaft bearings -
which I would not want to fart with....

I am too much of a "meat hands" and much too ignorant for that!

Before I put the rings back onto the pistons, I placed them into the cylinder and
measured the "end gaps" using a Feeler Gauge.

With REGULAR rings, my ring gaps were well within spec, so apparently my cylinder walls
had very little wear after the 157,000 miles on it (assuming no one had done a
ring job prior to me owning it).

My ridge at the top of the cylinder was not very thick. It is possible that I
really didn't need to do that reaming...(?)

I replace my oil and filter at 3,000 miles religiously - like a monk attends prayers!

Just doing that alone, in my opinion, will keep the little bugger running for a
long time.

If a woman drives the vehicle - Watch Out!
Women are notorious for not checking the oil and running it dry or for gozillions of miles
w/o changing it...

So - I had the head done (wish I had had Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves put in for a few dollars more!),
replaced the rings and rod bearings, and the Head Bolts - that's it!

Runs like a dream!

My 5 speed manual transmission makes strange whirring/"grinding" noises when
it is cold out.

I may have to take it out and replace the bearings in the Transmission one summer,
but I'll wait until it is screaming before undertaking that job...

DoctorBill

PS - Every new tool that I bought to do this job, paid for itself right away.

What did I save - $1,000 or more !? No idea....anybody want to chime in ?!

AND - at 46 mpg (average) versus 25 mpg for 'normal' cars, how much does
one save in gasoline at $3.40 / gallon nowadays?

((# miles driven per year)/(Metro's mpg - Reg car's mpg)) x Current Price per gallon = amount saved by rebuilding your Metro

It was worth doing !

[94metroxfi]

Dr. B.

I have ordered my water pump, rod bearings and pistons rings. I will ridge ream it to be safe. Then I will hone the cylinders are get ready for reinstall.

Like I said before my head is done, stainless valves as well.

Once I get the parts I should be able to have this project done in 1 more day opcorn:

[DOCTORBILL]

Sounds great.

All I would say is, "Don't rush it. Pay close attention to details. Be careful."

I hope all goes well.

You'll have to time it. Is the Timing Belt old....(?)

Let us know how things go and how she (he?) runs after you are done.

Remember that you need to "break it in" by no high rpms or loads for a couple
of hundred miles.

Change the oil and filter after 100 miles.

DoctorBill

[94metroxfi]

Cylinders are ridged/honed. Just waiting for parts Dinosaur for bearings, rings, pump

I guess while I wait... Now would be a good time to clean everything up get gasket surfaces all ready etc.

Thank for the encouragement to do this

Mike

[94metroxfi]

When I got the head back from machine shop I noticed that some of my studs are missing from exhaust and intake.. Anyone know the specs of these studs so I can replace?

[RossT]

Originally Posted by 94metroxfi

When I got the head back from machine shop I noticed that some of my studs are missing from exhaust and intake.. Anyone know the specs of these studs so I can replace?

You can pick these up in the "help" section in any autoparts store. They are a common size.

[94metroxfi]

lol, what size?

[DOCTORBILL]

Don't you think the "Head Shop" should return what you gave them!?

I'd go back and tell them to put the Studs back in!

Holy Molie!

They can't take parts out and not return them - what the Hell ?!

I got a small bag with ALL my parts that they had taken out - including the small
tubing used for registration when replacing the Head.

Don't take that garbage from them !

Just be sure that you didn't remove them....

DoctorBill

[94metroxfi]

I found them. They threw them in a box but they are broken, cut off