New safety Notice/Recall Buick regal

[eccs19]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

How many miles do you have?

Since it is a safety recall with a possibility of engine fire GM will replace the front valve cover gasket and do the ignition wire mod free of charge. Regardless of whether you have an oil leak.

I still get recall notices from GM concerning recall issues that I elected to waive or not have performed like the headlamp issue. They are persistent.

It's got 200,000 km on it.

Is this an actual recall? Can I take it in now, or do I have to wait till it's official?

I've had all my others done. (including the headlight)

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by eccs19

It's got 200,000 km on it.

Is this an actual recall? Can I take it in now, or do I have to wait till it's official?

I've had all my others done. (including the headlight)

Yes it is according to articles out and since the NHTSA is involved. See link below for more details and FAQs concerning this issue. Since you are in Canada contact a local GM dealer or GM/Buick Customer Service.

Click here

Also, GM dealers have notice of the issue by way of a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB).

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

I decided to do the front valve cover gasket on the wife's '99 Regals LS (VIN "K").
Talking about a PITA job due to the right engine mount. The whole dog bone engine mount bracket had to be removed to get the valve cover off.

Thanks Bob for all the additional links, info & pics. After reading you post, I am almost embarrassed to tell how easy the front gasket was to change on my PA, but I will anyway, for the benefit of others. I drove the car home from work last Friday and let it sit for about fifteen minutes to cool a little while gathering a few tools needed to remove the valve cover. I used a 3/8 Milwaukee cordless impact to loosen the six valve cover bolts. I wanted to see if the valve cover would come off without removing the ICM mount and it was tight, but it did come off. I had to remove one bolt (nut) holding the boost control wiring connector and the 1-3 & 5 ignition wires and move them aside. A total of five-minute had elapsed at this point! Once I had the cover off, I took a 10-minute break while the cover was soaking in carb cleaner. I used a parts cleaner brush to clean the inside of the cover and grooves where the gasket fits. (another five minutes)! I then carefully replaced the bolt grommets and the gasket in the cover grooves and placed the cover back in place & tightened the bolts to spec. Total work time was 10 min + 10-min soak time (Break). In addition, the engine was still hot during this procedure, so I had to be careful not to burn myself.

[BNaylor]

Good to know Bo. Man this thread has so much useful information that I think we'll 5 star rate it.

Quite obvious the LeSabre and PA have a different engine mounting system so that is a plus compared to the "W" bodies. As you can see by the first pic.

Also, I had to remove the top ignition coil (6/3) in order to get to one of the 13mm bolts holding the aluminum engine bracket with my 13mm open/box end wrench. A socket would not fit due to the UIM clearance. If it weren't for the engine mount the job would be a breeze. The only easier engine that I know of is the GM 3100/3400 60 degree engines.

On the ICM the mount I believe it was redesigned in the 1999 and up models so you can get to the far right valve cover bolt fairly easy. As you can see in the 2nd pic the remaining coils and ICM are intact with the valve cover removed.

I made sure the gasket surface on the cylinder head was cleaned up for a good seal and cleaned the inside of the valve cover with the old oil sludge and varnish similar to what you did. Same for the seal groove.

The gasket was an easy fit but must be inserted with the bead out. Also, I coated the gasket surface with a light coat of clean engine oil before placing it down. The gasket held good and tight without slipping off. Also, I noticed when tightening the valve cover bolts starting with the inside in a cross hatch pattern and then working out to the two outer that you will feel each bolt with new grommet bottom out and then just a short turn to the right until the torque wrench clicks off at 89 in-lbs. BTW - I used 1/4" drive tools on the valve cover bolts.

[eccs19]

Just as a FYI, I stopped by the dealer today, and they looked at mine, and it wasn't leaking. They said not to worry about it until I get the official recall notice, then bring it in. They said if it was bad, they would do it no problem. Their information is that GM is trying to get a source, and some inventory for the replacement parts. They did say that if I start smelling oil burning, to bring it right in.

Just out of curiosity, how hard is it to change the rear cover gasket on these cars? I figure if they do the front, I may do the back, just to make sure I'm good and leak free.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by eccs19

Just out of curiosity, how hard is it to change the rear cover gasket on these cars? I figure if they do the front, I may do the back, just to make sure I'm good and leak free.

Not difficult DIY but nothing is really easy on the GM FWD engines.

IMO the rear is easier but the alternator has to be removed or set aside to get to the top right valve cover bolt. The other 5 are easy to get to and remove with 1/4" drive type tools. Also, you have to remove the front 02 sensor wiring harness mounting bracket from the rear exhaust manifold. Just one 13mm nut holds it on. It blocks easy removal of the rear valve cover.