Starter running

[B16 SiRII]

Well, it's never been really clear which model it is...I was under the impression that it was an E350, it has the 5.0 302 in it. But most of what the guy who sold me the van told me was either incorrect or not true. It is extended and it has the dual fuel tanks, so I do believe it's the 350.

::edit:: Upon looking at all the models and engine types it seems that only the 250 is available with the 5.0 302 motor, although I'm pretty sure you could have gotten a 350 with that 302 in it...who knows. As long as the motor is correct I'm pretty sure the diagram will be correct.

[Selectron]

In that case, I reckon I was looking at the correct diagram - when you get to the Wiring Diagrams section, it's listed as '1989-91 Chassis Gasoline Schematic'. At the bottom of the diagram it says 'Diagram 21', and it's five different circuits on one page - the starter circuit is at the top left, and just ignore the other stuff.

You'll need to trace through that circuit using either a multimeter or a 12V test lamp, choosing whichever points are reasonably accessible, to find out at which point you are losing the 12V. That's easier said than done though, because the ignition switch needs to be held at the 'Start' position for the 12V to appear, so it would be a case of hooking your test gear into the circuit and then turning the switch to 'Start' and seeing if you have the 12V, and then doing that repeatedly as you test different points in the circuit.

That's an awkward way to do it, so my choice would be to disconnect the battery negative terminal and then test for continuity between different points along the path - that requires either a multimeter (set to the resistance range), or something called a 'self-powered test lamp'. That way, you don't need for the ignition switch to be held at the Start position, except for if you were testing the actual switch contacts.

Before diving in with test gear though, I'd follow that small solenoid wire back to the wiring harness and make a visual inspection as far back as possible, just in case there's an inline connector which is loose, or dirty or corroded, or has detached itself.

Just in case it isn't immediately apparent to you, the electrical path through the circuit is as follows:

At the top left of the diagram, Fuse Link D supplies current to the ignition switch 'Start' contacts - current then emerges from there on a White/Pink wire which leads to the Transmission Range Sensor (automatic) or the Park/Neutral position switch (manual), emerging from there on a Red/Blue wire, which goes to an unspecified connector, emerging from there on a Red/Light Green wire, which connects to the small terminal on the firewall solenoid (shown on the diagram as 'Starter Relay'). The open-circuit is somewhere along that path.

You're familiar with the small wire which connects to the solenoid, so I'd make that the starting point, and work backwards from there.

Unfortunately, I can't help with component locations because I'm not familiar with the Econoline, but if you have any questions on the test procedures, then just let me know.

[B16 SiRII]

I'm going to check the wiring sometime in the near future. Thank you so much for the tips on how to start it, I used it today for work and it ran ok. I have this problem where the transmission doesn't want to shift into gears and the engine almost stalls when I hit the gas and the engine is cold.

I think I have a vaccum leak or it might be the throttle positioning sensor...I'm guessing that both engine and transmission are affected by this part and if the engine doesn't think I'm giving it air it won't give it gas and the transmission won't know it's time to work. Hopefully I'm right and it doesn't mean my transmission is going...

[Selectron]

That's good that you're able to use the van again - just post again in this thread if you need assistance when you get around to fault-finding on the solenoid circuit.

I can't help with the engine / transmission problem, unfortunately; I've been driving diesels exclusively for many years now so I'm out-of-touch with the finer points of modern gasoline-engined control systems. It would be worth starting a new thread for that fault though, and see if anybody else can shed some light on it - it would be a shame to be putting unnecessary strain on the transmission if it's maybe something as simple as a vacuum leak, or similar.

[B16 SiRII]

Ok, problem solved...but i cheated. I spent the better part of the day with a borrowed multimeter practicing contortion techniques in and around the van(I'm 6'1 225lbs, just don't fit in tight spaces). After a couple of hours I gave up, went to Autozone and set myself up with a push button start. Same idea as the wire trick but with a button in the cabin. I put in a 15 fuse in between the connections that has a weatherproof seal around it just in case something should happen I won't fry anything, just that fuse. Key in ON position, push the button, voila! I don't know why I didn't think of this before, I was running a push button ignition on my Civic for years...
Once again, thank you so much Selectron. I don't think I would have been able to troubleshoot this without you!