Carb Help - Page 2

chevymaniactn08 · #16 02-18-2008, 03:18 PM

thanks alot...ill let u guys know how it goes

Blue Bowtie · #17 02-18-2008, 11:13 PM

Most effective tool for a Holley:

If that's not an option, determine which model Holley you have. The numbers are on the left front of the air horn. I had a Holley on a Performer once. It was a little too much carb for the 283:

bobss396 · #18 02-19-2008, 06:42 AM

GAS, good tutorial on the float adjustment! A lot of people dis the Holley carb line, but I like them. I have a set of carbs here that I move from car to car.

I also suggest getting a good basic Holley book, any decent book store will have them or try Amazon.

Bob

chevymaniactn08 · #19 02-19-2008, 09:29 AM

this is the carb i have.its an 65-1850s.where the screw u mentioned?

this is my valve cover...the milky lookin stuff i dont like to see..gas n oil?

463 · #20 02-19-2008, 12:49 PM

that milky stuff is anti freeze misting up off of the head bolts. if the engine has been worked on some of the old school thinking was to use silicon (rvt) sealer on the head bolts. you can fix this buy removing one head bolt at a time ,clean the head bolt and put pipe sealant ( i used a locktite pipe sealent ) and re torque to the engine specks, Head bolts (sealer on threads).65 ft.-lbs. this will fix this, and a oil & filter change asap after the repair as coolant and bearings do not mix to well. chances are both heads will have to have the new sealant put on and re torque.

463 · #21 02-19-2008, 12:56 PM

looks like that carb is a non external ajustable carb re float ajustment.

chevymaniactn08 · #22 02-19-2008, 02:15 PM

thanks for the reply....i talked to a technician from holley and he explained to me that i jus need to take the float bowl off and make sure when the float sits back down that it is parallel to the float bowl...im gonna try lookin at this now to see how it looks....about the head and the head bolts?....the heads need to come completely off with new gaskets put on?....

chevymaniactn08 · #23 02-19-2008, 02:27 PM

now im gettin pissed....float level is fine...dont know where else to start

463 · #24 02-19-2008, 02:31 PM

head bolts do them one at a time,put the sealant on the clean threads , install and torque. them easy fix. "been there done" that file

chevymaniactn08 · #25 02-19-2008, 03:19 PM

QUESTION Why is my engine running rich and my mixture screws do not have effect?
ANSWER The first thing you need to ckeck is your float level. No fuel should run from the sight hole unless you shake the vehicle. Next check the engine vacuum at idle. (in gear if A/T) if it is 12" or more a 6.5" powervalve will usually be fine. Anything below 12" divide in half. For example 9" vacuum will use a 4.5" power valve. Another possible cause associated with performance cam shafts are exposed transfer slots. You should not see more than .025"-.030" of the transfer slot exposed past the throttle plate at idle.

this was my intial problem i thought i had...running too rich!!!thats y i came to u guys...now that i have checked the float level and it was fine...where do i go...i have no idea of wut he's talkin about when he refers to the vacuum and power valve...can anyone explain them in lamens term please?i got that question from the holley website under the "frequently asked questions page".

463 · #26 02-19-2008, 04:28 PM

Holley carb power valve http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho.../photo_05.html here is the link to the carb help. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...798/index.html

Blue Bowtie · #27 02-20-2008, 08:24 AM

Good call. One moderate backfire, and the original PV is toast. There is a check ball kit to resolve that. If you go shopping for a new PV, make sure you look at the inches vacuum rating stamped in it, and try to get one with rectangular slots rather than holes for the fuel passages.

You can also run a small music wire through the air bleeds (accessible through the air horn) to make sure they are clear.

Yes, the primary bowl looks to be internal adjustment only, but the rear looks like it might have the screw.

You can find some decent information on Holley carbs online if you look for it. www.mortec.com also has some helpful hints.

If the links don't get you what you need, I have a scanned copy of a Holly 4150-4160 manual I can email, but it's about 4 MB, so make sure your email can take it. All I'd need is a good email addy in the PM.

chevymaniactn08 · #28 02-20-2008, 09:30 AM

thanks for the help guys...the first thing i planning on doin is gettin that old milky lookin oil out of my engine and everywhere else it might be...then i will go to the junkyard and find me a good lookin quadrajet and put it on to see how it does...i still actually think im gettin too much gas...but...my mind is starting to go blank bout this one...r there any other possibilities....?

chevymaniactn08 · #29 02-20-2008, 01:58 PM

so even if my carb has the blowback protection it will still malfuction when a blowback happens?

chevymaniactn08 · #30 02-23-2008, 04:21 PM

Everyone Knows The Problem Im Having And I Tank Everyone For Takin The Time Out To Help...i Noticed Something When I Was Under My Hood.....after Putting My Intake On B4 My Problem Started I Noticed That Alot Of My Intake Bolts R Loose!will This Cause The Problem Im Having As Well....could Antifreeze Leak Under The Intake And Go Into The Oil?and Wut About Gettin In The Runners Of The Intake...will That Cause The Car To Run Good On Moderate Acceleration And Eventually Die After Runnin Idle....so My Question....from The Loose Intake Bolts...can Antifreeze Get Into The Gas As It Goes Into The Piston Chamber And Can It Get Into The Oil That Way?

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