Turn key and no start/crank...bat is good!

[J-Ri]

Originally Posted by rockwood84

it clicks in the dash? try this spray some wd40 in the switch then put the key in and turn it a couple of times. just don't spray a whole lot in there one good spray is enough.use the little hose that comes with the can and stick it in the switch as you would the key.

If you try lubing the cylinder, use a dry graphite lubricant. Any liquid will hold any dust that gets in there and it will get sticky.
The switch isn't really serviceable... and if you go to the trouble of taking it out to clean/lube it, I would gamble and just replace it. It's not worth the price of the switch (to me) to lay under the dash with your back bent into an "L" a second time if ends up being bad.

Another thought... when not starting and the key is in the "start" position, do the dash lights/radio/headlights go off? Someone with a similar truck confirm this, but I'm 99.9% sure they should go out if the switch is is start.

[j cAT]

[quote=J-Ri]If you try lubing the cylinder, use a dry graphite lubricant. Any liquid will hold any dust that gets in there and it will get sticky.

the proper way to lube locks is to use graphite mixed with alcohol squirt into lock cylinder. this is good for all locks . have used on ignition because switch hard to rotate. this will not help clean contacts of ignition switch because , the contacts would be worn not dirty.....a bad switch would cause more problems than not cranking. i have see bad switch on its own try to start engine no key in ignition no one in car........but that was a ford so ..........

[queball727]

Ive further examined my no start problems. It seems when its cold it still wont start. I do live in Colorado and it started in -14 last week no problem. But the second I turn it off it may or may not start. Ive been patient but its running thin. Not sure if I should try replacing the starter or the ignition switch! HELP!!!!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by queball727

Ive further examined my no start problems. It seems when its cold it still wont start. I do live in Colorado and it started in -14 last week no problem. But the second I turn it off it may or may not start. Ive been patient but its running thin. Not sure if I should try replacing the starter or the ignition switch! HELP!!!!

the way to be sure is to measure with voltmeter voltage at starter with switch in crank position when it fails.if no voltage at coil probably ignition switch. if you have voltage at starter terminals then starter is bad. at your aged vehicle it would be common for this failure . especially if used on short trip uses with many starts per day......i just replaced yesterday my sons s10 pu truck starter solinoid defective starter was GM 2yrs old. solenoid contacts fell apart brushes were not even worn.....so no crank lights don't dim usually is starter solenoid........but meter is used to be SURE.......

[queball727]

I found my fix anyhow! I replaced the starter. Have not had a problem since. It seemed to get worse and worse on a daily basis so I thought Id take a stab in the dark and replace the starter! WORKED like a champ but wasnt cheap!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by queball727

I found my fix anyhow! I replaced the starter. Have not had a problem since. It seemed to get worse and worse on a daily basis so I thought Id take a stab in the dark and replace the starter! WORKED like a champ but wasnt cheap!

you might call this a stab in the dark I wish i had those odds when playing the slot machine!!!!!!


If no starter action and the lights don't dim 90% its the starter....


expensive ????? 100.00 for a starter is cheap.... unless a dealer did it then it's expensive.....

[kahjdh]

If you need the truck take the starter off and have it tested. AA or AZ should do this for free and it will answer alot of questions. Is the click comming from the dash or engine?

[72chevelleOhio]

I just seen this so....

Originally Posted by papashaq

Very intermitenly I will notice that sometimes when I get in my truck the radio will be turned off (something I never do) and the clock will be at 12:00. Presets are still there though. but almost like the battery had been diconected.

Onstar?
I get this about every 8 months or so. I wondered what was going on until I was going to the store. I heard the beep but the radio volume didn't go down. I watched the clock change itself. Then the it beeped again after the clock stopped. I have never subscribed to Onstar. I don't know if its just a system test, some kid at Onstar playing around, A glitch in my truck, Or G.M. getting "revenge" for not subscribing.
I always tell everyone its revenge.....

[papashaq]

Ok, since my last post on this subject, I went until the middle of may with no problems starting. About a week 1/2 ago I jumped in the truck to run an errand and turn the key and no starter at all...again dash lights go out and a couple clicks from the dash when I turn key to start. Battery is good.

I said screw this, jacked it up and in the rain yanked out the starter and took it too AZ. Had them test it and guess what...tested good. They talked me into a $164 starter, which was ok by me anyhow. Put the new one in let her down and she strated right up. Been doing good until this afternoon when I was leaving the office to go to an appointment. Truck has been sitting for about 5 hours now. Turn the key and same old story...nothing happens. Pissed off now I jack up the truck and jumped the posts on the starter with the key in the run position. The starter cranked and keep on cranking after I took off the screw driver and cranking and cranking. No start at all though, just cranks, like it wasn't getting spark. I had to disconnect bat to get it to stop cranking. Does this point to an ignition switch problem? What is my next step here? I am seriously ready now to drive this truck off of Grand Dad's Bluff! BTW I have 12v on the main post of starter and nothing on the other with the key in the start position.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by papashaq

Ok, since my last post on this subject, I went until the middle of may with no problems starting. About a week 1/2 ago I jumped in the truck to run an errand and turn the key and no starter at all...again dash lights go out and a couple clicks from the dash when I turn key to start. Battery is good.

I said screw this, jacked it up and in the rain yanked out the starter and took it too AZ. Had them test it and guess what...tested good. They talked me into a $164 starter, which was ok by me anyhow. Put the new one in let her down and she strated right up. Been doing good until this afternoon when I was leaving the office to go to an appointment. Truck has been sitting for about 5 hours now. Turn the key and same old story...nothing happens. Pissed off now I jack up the truck and jumped the posts on the starter with the key in the run position. The starter cranked and keep on cranking after I took off the screw driver and cranking and cranking. No start at all though, just cranks, like it wasn't getting spark. I had to disconnect bat to get it to stop cranking. Does this point to an ignition switch problem? What is my next step here? I am seriously ready now to drive this truck off of Grand Dad's Bluff! BTW I have 12v on the main post of starter and nothing on the other with the key in the start position.

when you tryed to start the vehicle 11/2 weeks ago and all the lights dimmed when turning the ignition key to crank you should have checked for bad wiring or battery is defective....starter should be good....


your new starter appears to be damaged/defective...the starter will have voltage on the small solenoid terminal when key in crank not run position...


put original starter in or get another AZ defective starter...AZ electrical parts are shit...

[papashaq]

right but there are no volts on small terminal with key in crank. There is always volts on the main terminal. Or maybe I am screwed up..but right now with key in crank I have 12v on main "big" terminal but none on little terminal.

My bat was good 12v and the lights did not dim...dash lights went out like normal when starting.

[papashaq]

Alright, I just replaced the ignitions switch ($140) and that did no good. What the hell, I just don't understand, where else could this be going wrong?

[rockwood84]

yep az electrical parts are **** take the starter back and go elsewhere to get a starter it should solve the problem. when you shorted the az starter across the posts it shorted it out that is the reason it kept cranking.have you had the battery load tested? they can have twelve volts but not under a load.get the battery load tested and a good brand starter then you should be good to go.

[papashaq]

I have not had the battery load tested yet...how do I do that? BUT

I checked out my fuses and found that the 40 amp ING fuse was blown. I ran to the parts store and got a couple of those and for the hell of it grabbed a starter relay also. I put both the fuse and the relay in and she started up. Tried it about 5 times. put in the old relay and not start, put the new relay in and it started. Awesome right? WELL, I shut it off and put the dash back together. And slowly let the jack down. I had to move it over so the car could park in the drive so I moved the car from behind the truck and then hopped back in the truck and no crank again. checked the 40 amp and it was blown, put in a new one and that blew. Jumped the fuse with a paperclip and it got red hot as soon as I turned to the crank position but still no crank. Put in old relay and the clip did not get red but no crank. Put new relay back in and clip gets red and still no crank. What's going on here?

[papashaq]

If I am reading my schematics right, power goes straight from the batt to the relay and when the relay is pulled close (from everything working out right with ignition switch, passlock, Park Neutral switch) then to the small selenoid terminal right? So my problem has to be between the relay and the selenoid wouldn't you think? Or a shitty starter/selenoid from AZ.