2003 taurus 3.0 vulcan slow/no start sometimes

[noclues]

Originally Posted by shorod

According to the 2002 service manual, it sounds like the SecuriLock system will prevent the engine from cranking if activated. You don't happen to have two or more Ford transponder keys on the same key ring, do you? If so, try only the key for your car, removing it from the key ring and keeping the other keys away from the steering column.

-Rod

Ford transponder keys? i only have the remote and the key linked with a ring, and that's the way they came from the dealer in 2005. but until 10 days ago never had this problem.
never had the key together with any other key on the same ring because i've heard of such interference.

[noclues]

Originally Posted by shorod

If it's the starter and not cranking immediately after hitting the starter, I'd doubt you'll get by very long this way. Sounds like the brushes are pretty far gone.

Do you at least hear a click from under the hood when you try to start and get nothing? If you hear a firm click, but no crank, then I'd agree it's just about guaranteed to be the starter.

I thought the PATS system just prevented the injectors from opening, but I thought would still allow the engine to crank. However, your 2003 probably has SecuriLock which may disable the starter as well. If the anti-theft is the issue, you'll probably have a flashing or solid "THEFT" or "SECURITY" indicator in the instrument cluster when trying to start the engine. You could confirm this as possibly the issue if you have access to a professional scan tool that can access the anti-theft system. Have you snooped around under the dash to look for evidence that maybe an aftermarket remote start system was installed at one time, or possibly still installed?

-Rod

the theft is flashing when no key is in the ingnition however it turns off when cranking... and as far as i remember it's also OFF when nothing happens (no cranking) or when slow cranking.

i hear NO click when the car doesnt start. of course i have the windows up but i'd say there's no click.

not sure how to look for an aftermarket remote start. the car was most likely leased and then returned to the dealer who sold it to me - so i highly doubt it there were any changes done to it. plus the infamous "certified pre-owned" aka "used car" program from ford prouds itself with its checks and tests to ensure the best quality and experience with the product i'm assuming they checked for that before sending it to the dealer...

could anything else ignition related cause this? and it's just a coincidence that it's starting after a few hammers? i'm sure the people at the garage would be more than happy to change the starter for a few bills but if that's not the cause it will be unpleasant for my wallet...

[tripletdaddy]

Starters can also have "dead" spots in it so that when the starter stops spinning at one of these spots, it will not be able to conduct electricity through the rotor to spin it. Bad or worn brushes will produce the same result where hammering on it might get enough contact to get it to move. Either way in that condition it needs to be repaired. If you are up for the challenge, you can have it bench tested for free at an auto parts store and they can conclusively prove its condition.

[cj091184]

Originally Posted by tripletdaddy

Starters can also have "dead" spots in it so that when the starter stops spinning at one of these spots, it will not be able to conduct electricity through the rotor to spin it. Bad or worn brushes will produce the same result where hammering on it might get enough contact to get it to move. Either way in that condition it needs to be repaired. If you are up for the challenge, you can have it bench tested for free at an auto parts store and they can conclusively prove its condition.

tripletdaddy is correct, when your starter starts to wear out it will start to get bad spots on the motor inside, when you start your car the starter will spin and if it stops on the bad spot it won't start again, so taping with a hammer causes it to move from the bad spot and will start.

however this wounld not make sense with the slow crank, because as soon as the bad spot was passed it should start, if when it wont start there is no click at the starter then the starter solinoid is probably bad wich I would replace the whole starter.

If you remove your starter you can take it to autozone or murrays and they can test it.

You could do this yourself with a general rachet set it may be a little difficult to get at but other than that its a fairly easy repair. Your starter is only held on with 2-3 bolts, and there are three wires on it that you should check and make sure they are tihgt and clean, the first is about an inch long and comes out of the starter body and goes to one of the bigger bolts onthe starter, the second is the positive wire from the battery, and the third is the smallest wire wich should just clip on, if that smallest wire is dirty or loose the car will not start. The small wire is from the ignition, when you turn the key it sends a small electrical charge to the starter wich closes the circut between the two large wires and the starter spins.


I would remove it and have it tested, if you go to autozone.com they have copied alot of chiltons manuals to there site, just select your car, then repair info, then engine electrical, go to starter and it will tell you exactly how to remove.

Also if you want to save some money you could see if your local junk yard has a starter, usually 25-40, better than over a 100, and usually come with a 3-6 month warranty

[noclues]

well i had the starter replaced at a garage for 200 bucks (150 is the new part at autozone...)

hopefully this fixed the problem at a total cost of about $300 (battery + starter).

thanks all for your help!