1995 blazer fuel pump? - Page 2

JasonSpaeth · #16 12-19-2007, 01:56 PM

MT - I will try what you just wrote, next.

Mike, with the key on, I registered .025 volts on the grey wire, 8.3 volts to the purpleish wire, and zero volts to the back wire. Does this mean I am not getting sufficent power to the pump? The battery is new and measure just under 12 volts. I am sure it was over 12 volts but I have had the hood light on for some time now.

JasonSpaeth · #17 12-19-2007, 02:33 PM

MT - I ran a wire from the positive side of the batter to the test light. I plugged the other end of the test light into the black wire terminal on the fuel pump harness. It light up nice and bright.

I also ran a positive line from the battery to the grey wire on the pump. Nothing happened until I tapped on the tank with a rubber mallet. The pump came to life.

Now what??? Is the pump good bu the connection somewhere is bad???

JasonSpaeth · #18 12-19-2007, 02:39 PM

now that the fuel pump is working after tapping on the tank, I have 59 lbs of pressure when I turn the key on. It starts right up and runs at about 55 lbs. When I shut it off it stays at 55 lbs.

So the pump seems to be strong, but what do I need to do to make sure that it stays working? My wife will not carry a mallet with her in case it doesn't work one day. She would probably hit me with it, though!

MT-2500 · #19 12-19-2007, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonSpaeth

now that the fuel pump is working after tapping on the tank, I have 59 lbs of pressure when I turn the key on. It starts right up and runs at about 55 lbs. When I shut it off it stays at 55 lbs.

So the pump seems to be strong, but what do I need to do to make sure that it stays working? My wife will not carry a mallet with her in case it doesn't work one day. She would probably hit me with it, though!

Oh yes if you do not replace it now she may take the mallet to you.
Because it may quite all together the next time.
But At least you done the proper testing and found the problem.

If you have to tap on it to get it to run the fuel pump is on it's last leg.
May start the next time and may not.

Replace it and be done with it.

I would suggest the GM delphi fuel pump for it.

Check your blazer listing .
I think on that one you can replace the just the fuelp pump.
But sure you have not fried you fuel gauge unit.
Jumping the blue or purple wire is not good.
After market brands such as airtex do not have a good track record.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
MT

JasonSpaeth · #20 12-19-2007, 02:53 PM

Thanks MT - I guess I will start the tear down process. The fittings on the tank are really rusty. I have had them soaking for 24 hours now. I hope I can get them free. I will post progress.

MT-2500 · #21 12-19-2007, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonSpaeth

Thanks MT - I guess I will start the tear down process. The fittings on the tank are really rusty. I have had them soaking for 24 hours now. I hope I can get them free. I will post progress.

Go easy on the lines.
The fuel pump hanger with tubing out of the tank is about 300 bucks at cost.
Get some good line wrenches and do your best to save it.
Good Luck
MT

JasonSpaeth · #22 12-19-2007, 05:20 PM

Mt - Are you still around by chance? I got the threads loose on the fitting I can get to. However, I am assuming that the metal line should have a swivel nut and that the rubber line would have the fixed nut. The problem is that it will not swivel. Obviously I can not heat it! I am not sure what to do to get them free. I have been non stop soaking them with PB blaster and have been trying to work them back and forth but no success. I can't believe they don't make this out of a better material especially if it is so expensive. I certainly welcome any suggestions!

MT-2500 · #23 12-19-2007, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonSpaeth

Mt - Are you still around by chance? I got the threads loose on the fitting I can get to. However, I am assuming that the metal line should have a swivel nut and that the rubber line would have the fixed nut. The problem is that it will not swivel. Obviously I can not heat it! I am not sure what to do to get them free. I have been non stop soaking them with PB blaster and have been trying to work them back and forth but no success. I can't believe they don't make this out of a better material especially if it is so expensive. I certainly welcome any suggestions!

Yes it should swivel but may be froze up.
Keep working at it . Tighten up and lossen up.
OR
Is there ant way you can get the other end of line lose and of of frame and take it down that way?

If not you may have to cut the line.
But cut it where you can reflare it or get another line.

JasonSpaeth · #24 12-19-2007, 07:01 PM

Hi Mt - I thought about that too. But, It looks like the other end of the rubber hoses are fixed (no removable fittings) right to the steel fuel lines that run up along the frame rails. I'll take a closer look at it but that is what it felt like.

DelCoch · #25 12-20-2007, 01:04 AM

Quote:

. . . the other end of the rubber hoses are fixed (no removable fittings) right to the steel fuel lines that run up along the frame rails.

You're right - the rubber hose is a permanent connection to the metal line.

The smaller metal line is the return line and you can cut it and splice it back together with a rubber gas hose. The larger metal line is the high pressure line and it carries too much pressure to be spliced with a rubber line.

Just be patient and soak the line and nut a lot. Be careful not to twist the metal line and eventually it will break loose. You may have to soak it for a couple days or so, but keep it wet with your PB Blaster. The gas line running up the frame is a bear to replace; the high pressure line runs all the way from the tank to the fuel filter without a connection in it and there’s no room to work in there.

Good luck and keep up posted.

JasonSpaeth · #26 12-20-2007, 09:30 AM

Hi Guys, I am just going to keep it wet with PB Blaster for a couple of days. I plan to try it again on Saturday. The smaller line did bend/twist a little but I do not think I cracked it. Any way, if I did - it is good to know that this is the return line so I could hose clamp a rubber line in there if necessary.

I have not tried the larger line yet since the smaller one is in the way. I sure hope it works but it is really rusty. And, I mean really rusty.

This vehicle was only driven in Mn Winters (stored all summer)....and it has 230,000 miles on it! I have just put new ball joints, exhaust, brakes, and tires on it so I would like to keep her going. The body on this truck literally looks new, though. I have kept it washed all the time. BTW, this is the original fuel pump!

I will post back progress. Thanks for all the help!

DelCoch · #27 12-20-2007, 09:48 AM

Check with your local Auto Parts stores and see if any of them carry "Zep" Penetrating Oil. It's a lot better than PB Blaster - actually it's the best on the market. It comes in a couple different colored aerosol cans, some are blue others are yellow.

JasonSpaeth · #28 12-20-2007, 11:23 AM

Thanks for the suggestion on the Zep. I went to the two auto parts places in the town I work in and neither has it. I have two more stores in my home town that I will check out this evening. Wonder if this is something that a walmart would carry? - probably not, though.

DelCoch · #29 12-20-2007, 01:25 PM

It's hard to say if WalMart would have it or not. It would be worth checking on. Most of the Auto Parts stores don't carry it in my neck of the woods either. I don't know why, as it's really great stuff.

MT-2500 · #30 12-20-2007, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DelCoch

It's hard to say if WalMart would have it or not. It would be worth checking on. Most of the Auto Parts stores don't carry it in my neck of the woods either. I don't know why, as it's really great stuff.

Very Gocd stuff.
Run a web search for there web site.
The only way I can get it is to order from Zep manf co.
Or the old Zep route salesman.
MT

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