93 LeSabre no spark

[Mickey#1]

The ICM gets power from the pink/black stripe wire at the P terminal. Is that the wire you checked?

Besides checking the wires for continuity you should check for a short between the wires & short to ground. Or just swap the wiring harness that runs between the ICM & crank/cam sensors with the one from the Olds.

You should also clean any corrosion off the ICM mounting plate & mounting bracket & check for a good ground at the mounting bracket. I like to use a 12v light bulb to check the ground. Just connect the bulb between the mounting plate & positive battery terminal.

[spinne1]

Originally Posted by brian_k24

I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor and still get the same results. Is there anyway for me to test the sensor to see if the new one is bad?

According to the factory service manual for a 92 LeSabre (it may have the exact same info as for a 93 for this issue), the code 42 does not involve the crank sensor in any way. The possible problems are:

Ignition module or wiring to and from
PCM or wiring to and from

I'll give my homebrewed test procedures:

First, an explanation. The ignition module has a white wire in position A and a tan/black wire in position B. These both eventually lead to the PCM's 32-pin black connector in positions BC7 for the white wire, and BC6 for the tan/black wire. To get a code 42, either your PCM or ignition module are bad, or one of these two wires is shorted to ground or open at startup. Let's assume for now that the PCM and ignition module are fine. If so, you MUST have a faulty wire. Let's test each:

Disconnect both the ignition module wiring harness and the PCM black 32-pin wiring harness. Now, hook an ohmmeter to the white wire near the ignition module at position A. Hook the other end to the battery's ground. Is there infinite resistance or zero resistance? If infinite, the wire is not shorted to ground. If zero, you must find where the wire is shorted to ground, or replace the wire somehow (it's not easy getting a wire through the firewall).

Next, repeat the same test using the tan/black wire at position B of the ignition module. Again, you are seeing if it is grounded or not. If not, you are fine to do further tests. If so, you must eliminate the ground and fix or replace the wire.

Now, you want to check for opens in the two wires. Connect one end of the ohmmeter to the white wire A, and the other end to position BC7 of the PCM wiring harness. If resistance is zero, there is no open and the wire is fine. If resistance is infinite, the wire must be repaired or replaced. Repeat the same test using the tan/black wire at position B and BC6 of the PCM wiring harness. Same rules apply for the results of this test.

If your wiring checks out, it is the PCM or ignition module. You already replaced the PCM and you said the ignition module was good. If the wiring checks out, you may have an intermittent problem (the worst kind of problem to diagnose) with the PCM, ignition module, or wiring.

[brian_k24]

Just a quick follow up, after checking all wires again I gave up and we brought it in to a shop. Shop said they cleaned the ICM mounting plate and bracket for ground and that was it. I don't know how clean that needs to because I had cleaned those areas with a wire wheel in my drill and also had tried a ground jumper wire from the battery to the ICM and could not get it to work.

[steven david]

check some old posts, i think there is a spark enable under the driver side dash that has to do with the anti-theft