2001 Ford Taurus Emissions Help Needed!!

[klnaco]

Here's an update.

Rod, thanks for the advice on removing the cowl. I managed to replace the plugs by doing this...still a major PIA but doable. This did not change the issue.

Also no leaks at the air inlet manifold/plenum either.

The emissions light is still on (and blinks every so often) and the car still runs/idles like it is missing on a cylinder. When you pump the gas some while in the driveway it feels like it wants to backfire.

I did not change out the wires/coils yet primarily because Ford wants ~ $150 per wire to replace. The parts guy I spoke with said they really should only be replaced when needed.

Is there anything else that comes to mind I can check next?

[shorod]

If you've managed to replace the plugs, it's not much of a stretch to think you could replace the wires as well. However, the manual implies that your model year uses the Coil on Plug (CoP) so you shouldn't have plug wires. Maybe that's where the $150 per comes from, that's the cost to have a dealer replace all 6 CoPs. Since you did the plugs, was it spark plug wires or a CoP that you had to remove to get to the spark plug?

-Rod

[klnaco]

They looked like regular wires to me with boots on both ends coming from the plug and leading back to looked similar to what used to look like a distributor cap.

Would after market wires be OK here or do I need to remain consistent with what Ford offers? I double checked with the dealership and this time they quoted ~ $100 for the wires versus ~ $40 in an auto parts store.

[shorod]

You may want to consider spending the extra $60 for the dealer wires if you plan to keep the car awhile. Also, there maybe a parts house in your area that deals in Motorcraft parts and would sell the wireset for less than the dealer.

-Rod

[klnaco]

Thanks again Rod.

I went to NAPA and bought some OEM replacements and put them in the car. It didn't improve my situation.

Is there anything else I can troubleshoot?

[shorod]

Since you're finding that you do not have CoP configuration, you may have a bad coil. I'll see if I can dig up a diagram showing if cylinders 2 and 5 (relating to your P0302 and P0305 codes) share a coil pack. In the mean time, make sure the wiring connector to the coil packs is seated firmly.

-Rod

[shorod]

I'm not having any luck finding if cylinders 2 and 5 share a coil in the coil pack. The coil pack is laid out though with three coils, A, B, and C. I'd suggest you trace the spark plug wires for cylinder 2 and cylinder 5 back to the coil pack and see if they are on the same coil. If so, and the wiring to the coil looks good and is connected securely, you may want to consider replacing the coil pack.

If you have a spark tester, you could check the spark from those two wires and coil towers. If you didn't have good spark from the towers, using an oscilloscope, you could test the drive to the coil to make sure the PCM is telling the coil to fire.

-Rod

[klnaco]

A FINAL update... I replaced the coil and she's running fine again. I highly recommend making sure you connect the correct wires in the correct sequence once completed though

Rod, thanks again for all of your help you have been absolutely wonderful.

[shorod]

Glad to hear that you probably got this issue solved. The other good news is you won't have to worry about needing spark plugs or wires for sometime, and you were able to do most of this on your own, saving some money and hopefully gaining more of an understanding of the underhood of your car. Great work, and thank you for the follow-up post.

-Rod

[bigtexas1986]

Klnaco, the things to check on the codes you mentioned is definitely the EGR system, the oxygen sensors, the PCV valve, the MAF, and the air filter. You mentioned needing details on the back plugs. The only way to get at those rear plugs and coils is to remove the air intake manifold. It's actually quite simple. Just take off the bolts holding it in place. They're right on top. I think there's 10 (5 across the front and 5 across the back) and I think they're 10mm bolts. If I remember correctly you have to disconnect it from the MAF and air filter connection, but once you get those off you have plenty of room to get at the rear plugs. I was surprised to see that the DOHC uses individual coils and yeah each of those is almost 100 each without tax. Once you get the coils off though, be sure you have some long extentions on your sockets because they're pretty seem. I think it was 10" to get at mine. I can't be sure because I used a few smaller ones and joined them together. Each coil should be labeled for the cylinder it's on but honestly the coils are all identical so there's no real order to put them in. I'd keep them in the order they were pulled out though so you know which plug coil is having trouble if any. Just pop everything back on and check that the connections are all tight to make sure the vacuum is good. Like I mentioned in another post, at worst case it's a catalytic converter on the too lean codes, but check the smaller stuff before you jump to that as that can get expensive as not many mechanics also do exhaust work. They'll usually send you to someone else and from what I'm told some places won't even touch the exhaust on a Ford.