transmission help please

[GreyGoose006]

wait wait wait
if i unplug the tcc, does it mean that the tc will NOT lock up or that it will STAY locked up?

i WANT it to lock at speeds over 35, and if possible, i want it to be locked except at or near WOT.

if i replace it myself, which i would plan on doing, are there any special things i need to know to avoid hours of needless hassles?

[silicon212]

If you disconnect it, it will stay in freewheel mode. The problem is most likely to be the TCC solenoid. Get a book on the transmission.

It shouldn't take a lot of time to do.

[GreyGoose006]

ok
thanks
thats what i wanted to hear

[Blue Bowtie]

Another thing to check the the TPS voltage. If it is set too high, it will tend to drop the converter clutch too soon. The MAP/VAC sensor could also affect TCC operation.

[bobss396]

Mine shifts fine unplugged, It shifts 1,2,3 and goes into overdrive. I should replace it so the transmission runs cooler. If I can find a link to a solenoid replacement tutorial, I'll post it here.

Bob

[GreyGoose006]

how would i go about checking the TPS voltage?
incedentally, i have had to make my own TPS rod thingy... it got ingested into the engine after a rushed carb rebuild.
i measured it with calipers and made my own from a nail, but there is a chance it is slightly off.
should it be longer or shorter to decrease the voltage?
its probably a bad idea, but is it possible that i could grind it down a bit and trick the computer into thinking the throttle is "less pressed" or whatever.

[Blue Bowtie]

Get the engine to operating temperature and make sure the choke is fully opened and the idle screw is off the fast idle cam. Connect a voltmeter to the A and B terminals on the TPS (backprobe the TPS connector). That should be the blue and gray wires. Adjust the TPS position to obtain a reading of 0.48VDC at the closed throttle position AFTER all other adjustments.

The vacuum sensor on the firewall also needs to be connected to a good manifold vacuum source. Incorrect inputs from either of thee can cause the TCC to hunt.

[PeteA216]

The VAC sensor... if it's what I'm thinking of (the sensor on the wheel well that measures vehicle vacuum) then it could be the cause of your improper locking of the tc if theres a vacuum leak. I just realized now the vacuum line had melted on the exhaust manifold and may have explained the premature tc locking.

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by PeteA216

The VAC sensor... if it's what I'm thinking of (the sensor on the wheel well that measures vehicle vacuum) then it could be the cause of your improper locking of the tc if theres a vacuum leak. I just realized now the vacuum line had melted on the exhaust manifold and may have explained the premature tc locking.

Yes, this can definitely lead to the problem.

It's one of those hard plastic vacuum lines that connects the MAP sensor to the carb. These get brittle and eventually break, especially near where they get hot from the exhaust on the passenger side. I even had mine get plugged from engine crap once - I had to clean it out. On mine, the MAP sensor is on a bracket to the left of the distributor behind the carb. The line is about 6" long. The BARO sensor is placed on a bracket along with the ECS module on the passenger fender.

Adjusting the TPS on one of these E4ME jobs requires the removal of a lead or epoxy plug to get to the adjusting screw.

[PeteA216]

It's strange... I always could tell that I had a vacuum leak but could never find it until I pulled out the motor. Well now after I tear everything down I find the cause of all my problems. Oh well, such is life.