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#16 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 349
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Re: Having problems
Before you start, you should wait in key position 2 for a few seconds, just so the fuel system and electrical system can charge, then turn it over.
There should be a slight buzzing/humming noise when you leave the system to charge for about 3 seconds before starting. If this buzz/hum is not there, you're looking at either fuel pump relay or the fuel pump itself. Check the relay first because it's easier to check. Try the good old fashioned "reseat" method. It is in the "E-box", the box on the other side of the engine bay and looks exactly like the fuse box on the drivers (left hand) side. Fuel pump relay is the only orange one in that box: ![]() If this doesn't change, the fuel pump replacement is found at Johan and Sean's E32 Page. The write up is for a 750 but I think the procedure is pretty much the same. Where ever there are two send lines, there will only be one for your car. If I remember correctly, he even touches on how to test them, if you feel like your up to it... Fuel Pump Replacement If there is a humming and the system is charging, make sure that your gear stick is in P. It might also be your starter relay, which can be found here: http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/e_box/fuse_box.html Let us know how it goes.
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1990 E32 750iL --> Pictures Production: 02/1990 Johan and Sean's E32 Page - Repairs and How-to's E38.org - Information and tech tips for BMW's Shogun's E32 Tech-Tips Gale's Repair Page ETK Online |
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#17 | |
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AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Moffett Field, California
Posts: 32
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Re: Having problems
Hey thanks again lincolnmaster80...I'll give it a try.
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#18 | |
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AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Moffett Field, California
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Re: Having problems
Okay guys, I'm back looking for help. My 89 735iL message center shows "trans program". Now it doesn't go into gear. I've tried every gear but nothing. After sitting for about 2 hours it did go into reverse but hesitated when placed in drive. Is this a computer glitch or is this a more serious problem. The tranny has around 199 thousand miles on it. Should I start looking for another tranny?Sincerely, Cajunboyla |
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#19 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 349
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Re: Having problems
Before I explain in detail, here's a list of things to check:
1. Battery voltage (at the battery itself under the rear seat) 2. Tire pressure 3. The transmission program button next to the shifter stalk is clean and the contacts for the shifter stalk are clean and corrosion free. 4. Transmission wiring harness Now then, those are the main things to check. Here comes the details. 1. Proper Battery Voltage: These cars are pretty sensitive to battery voltage. Anything less that about 10 volts, the car will do wierd things. Make sure the battery is good and has a stong voltage of about 12V, +/- .5 volts. Try the "magic reset" (found on the main 7-series forum), this method has been known to solve some problems. If the problems come back after the reset, it is because your computers have relearned the problem the car is suffering. 2. Correct Tire Pressure: If one tire is not properly inflated, the brake/ASC sensors will detect the lower pressure tire as spinning to fast because it has a smaller diameter and the car will shift improperly. However, you'd notice this symptom only when the car is in motion, as you've said the car doesn't go into gear at all to get moving. But it's still good to check these things! 3. Shifter Stalk/S-E-M selector: After 199,000km's, these two circuits have seen a lot of use. The one you're probably most concerned with, however, is the shifter stalk contacts. You can take this out by following the instructions on the web site below. Clean off with electrical contact cleaner and let dry COMPLETELY before reinstalling. Quick question: Is the gear displaying on your dash? http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_13.htm 4. Transmission Wiring Harness: Located underneath the car, this sometimes can wriggle itself loose and become dirty. You'll have to jack the car up and crawl underneath. Of Course, if it is dirty, it's a good idea to clean it off now while you're there. Disconnect the battery before you clean off and, again, let dry completely before re-inserting. I'm not sure where this connector is...I'll look for some pictures or write ups to help you out... As always, let us know what you find. These are just the basics to check first.
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1990 E32 750iL --> Pictures Production: 02/1990 Johan and Sean's E32 Page - Repairs and How-to's E38.org - Information and tech tips for BMW's Shogun's E32 Tech-Tips Gale's Repair Page ETK Online |
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