WIP: Tamiya 1/20 Tyrrell Yamaha 023

[billypee]

Originally Posted by badi

In Brazilian GP there was no small deflectors in front of car. During Argentine GP, I do not know.

Do you mean the bargeboards? Because, they are present on both the Brazialian and Argentine GP photos. They are blue (not white) so are difficult to see but they are definitely there.

Thanks for the link to your photos of the car you built in 2004. Very nice build, congratulations. Also, thanks for confirming the the photos you posted earlier were from the Brazialian GP. They will help considerably to ensure that the model is correct in profile.

Kind regards,
Bill

[Ąɥrton]

Ooooo! I've never seen this model built before, never bought it, but this will definititely be an interesting thread to follow!

[davesans]

Well this should be a good subject I like the fact you chose the blue version.
Also good choice of driver I would have picked Mika too just for the fact people still remember who he is. Ukyo WHO

[billypee]

Originally Posted by davesans

Also good choice of driver I would have picked Mika too just for the fact people still remember who he is. Ukyo WHO

Dave, I hope you don't plan to order anything from Japan after a comment like that

On a different note, I have done more research on the change required to the suspension. My original comments are incorrect... as there are three different suspension designs in the reference pictures. In both Brazil and Argentina, the car is 'traditionally' sprung with springs fore and dampers aft. Then, for the next 'few' races, the car features hydraulic rear suspension. About mid-season, the car revents to the traditionally sprung setup, but minus the dampers behind (the springs are now red too). The model comes from Tamiya with the late season setup.

Kind regards,
Bill

[Captain Mark]

Bill are you going to use any aftermarket parts or decals on this build?

[billypee]

Originally Posted by Captain Mark

Bill are you going to use any aftermarket parts or decals on this build?

Hi Mark,

Good point, I had forgotten to mention that. I will be using Studio 27 decals but no detail kit (I can't find one listed anywhere, so if anyone has seen a detail kit for this car, please let me know).

I will be using lots of hardware from RB Motion plus some SMS and Sakatsu items I already have. I also got some MFH blue cloth for the head rest and interior but have now realised that it is only really suitable for the late version.

I am considering getting an AcuStion detail kit for another F1 vehicle of this vintage, just so that I can get the disk rotor sprue, as the brake disks are a problematic area of low detail.

In terms of body colour, I plan to use Halfords Vauxhall Atlantis Blue Spray Paint. I bought it over Christmas and it looks like a perfect match but I wont know for sure until I test it on a bit of sprue.

Kind regards,
Bill

[billypee]

I have now completed much of the work on the nose-cone and front-wing.

As mentioned in previous posts, I decided to separate the wing elements for added realism. One particular area in need of some scratch work is the area where the secondary element of the front wing attaches to the side-fence. See the images below, both from the excellent Formula Perfect Manual Series, Vol. 6 Tyrrell Yamaha 023 Close Up & History book.

(Image from Formula Perfect Manual Series, Volume 6)


(Image from Formula Perfect Manual Series, Volume 6)

A vertical piece needed to be constructed through which the wing could be pinned. For this task, I chose to use aluminium from an empty tin of pop.

I considered replacing the moulded Gurney flap. I made one out of plastic and two from aluminium tin can as prototypes but none of the looked as good as the moulding, so it is staying. I used hardware from RB Motion to detail the Gurney flap and also to pin the secondary front wing. I think the Gurney flap bolts are a little too big, so I am going to replace them with smaller ones.

The reference photos clearly show 6x7 placement holes for the wing, whereas Tamiya have moulded 4x6. The holes would be too small if I corrected the problem, so I left them alone, just drilling them out at 0.3mm. The nose cone has been glued together and awaits putty. I have drilled all the holes for the wings, monocoque attachment and camera mount point.

All the wings have been drilled and pinned with copper wire. The primary element has 0.8mm wire, the secondary 0.6mm. The secondary wing will be adjustable even once the model is complete

There is still some work to be done on the monocoque mount points, however I am waiting for some styrene to arrive.

Kind regards,
Bill

[stevenoble]

Nice work with the pop can material.Never thought of using that for model making.The whole wing is looking good Bill.

[davesans]

That really cool what your doing to the front wing Bill can't wait to see more

[billypee]

Originally Posted by stevenoble

Nice work with the pop can material.Never thought of using that for model making.The whole wing is looking good Bill.

My first time using this as a material. I got the idea of using thin aluminium from Ares and the Ligier he is building on here. Be careful as the edges are sharp, but once you have filed them down it is a real pleasure to work with. You can use a craft knife but it requires a fair amount of pressure. I found that using scissors is the best way, and I have been using scissors that were in a Swiss Card.

Best thing is, pop cans are free, so if you mess up, you can always make another.

Kind regards,
Bill

[Jamme]

Hello Bill,
Just discovered your WIP........
I've never used Aluminium from a pop can.
I've used aluminium foil from K'S (on a roll)
Nice work anyway.
Cheers,

Jamme

[OrangeR]

...The secondary wing will be adjustable even once the model is complete

Great idea! I don't think that you'll be moving it very often but just to know that it can move will be rewarding. Nice work!

[billypee]

Some more fabrication work on the nose-cone.

According to the references in the Formula Perfect Manual, there are four raised studs where the nose-cone is mounted.


Source: Formula Perfect Manual Series, Vol. 6

Using bits of left over sprue, I fabricated 4 mount points so that the nose-cone can be mounted to the monocoque.



Moving on to the monocoque, I fabricated a new bulkhead to which the nose-cone would be mounted. This was made from 0.5 mm styrene sheet



I decided that I would remove the front suspension cover after all. This meant that I had to fabricate the interior and according to what I can see from the reference photos, it has a flat section in the middle with angled sections either side. In order to get the correct shape I had to insert additional slices of styrene to fill the gaps.



The barge-board supports have a section of the monocoque attached to them (the black pieces in the photo). I wanted to attach them now as they were just bolted on.



Turning my attention to the rear of the monocoque, I attached the rear bulkhead where the engine would attach. The kit piece includes the radiator assembly, so I removed them with a sharp knife. I cut out a section where the fuel cell connectors will be located as per my reference pictures. I also lowered the top section because I want to replicate the e-box shelf on the real car.



Finally, for this update but not for the monocoque fabrication task, I added a small piece of styrene to the engine induction scoop. On the reference photos the interior angle is level for the Brazilian GP (but not for the Argentinean GP).



Obviously there is much more work to be done. I just wanted to give you guys a taste for how ambitious I am being with this project.

Comments and critiques welcome,
Bill

[davesans]

Well done Bill your scratch building looks great.
Your moving along nicely keep up the good work.

[Captain Mark]

Wow, you're really going nuts with this one! Looking forward to seeing some colour go down.