egt gauge problems

[Blackcrow64]

It is my understanding that when the ohms go up like that then it means its no longer any good... So I would say thats your culprit right there... But yeah, mine idled perfectly fine when it ran.

[eclipsed at 3am]

nice....maybe i need a new one. im gonna check on one. thanks, ill replace that and get back to you. thanks a lot!

[gthompson97]

You'd better check into that a bit more before just going and replacing the TPS, they're not exactly cheap. If I can get my damn Mitchell On Demand to work I can give you the exact specs and steps towards checking the TPS, but it's not cooperating right now. Check on dsmtuners.com or the vfaq, there might be something on there about it.

[eclipsed at 3am]

well the tps is fine...i think. but i was gonna replace the IAC, which, if blackcrow is right, has gone bad.

about the tps, i dont know how to check if its bad or not. but i know how to adjust it. and it seems to adjust fine.


well...youare supposed to set it to a certain amount of ohms. then when i did that, and starrted the car up, it revved to 4k rpms... i dunno.

[gthompson97]

You check it with an ohm meter to see if it's bad or not....

[Blackcrow64]

The book gives you the different ohm ratings for different parts. If the the ohms are above or below those set ratings then the part is bad. That is how you test it properly if I remember correctly.

[eclipsed at 3am]

well the haynes manual i have, which sucks by the way, doesnt say how to test the tps. it just says how to adjust it. i guess the IAC would be bad then if its reading higher than normal. I was just always under the impression that if it was bad the ohms would constantly move around or go to infinity or something....or rip a hole in the universe

[Mikelb]

^you have an AFC... does it show the throttle as being 0% when you're idling?!? if not, then the TPS is bad or you have a faulty connection...

if you think the IAC is bad, unplug it and try to idle... it won't be going back and forth, and you might get a better idle... that's what I had to do to mine to set the BISS, turns out I had mad boost leaks... after I got everything set, I plugged the IAC back in and it idled fine...

^oh, and my car has no metal clips on the TPS or Injectors, and after driving hard, the TPS connector comes loose sometimes, and when that happens, my idle goes crazy... I check the Throttle position on the AFC and it shows the idle position changing, and I just plug the TPS back in, and idle returns to normal...

[eclipsed at 3am]

Originally Posted by Mikelb

^you have an AFC... does it show the throttle as being 0% when you're idling?!? if not, then the TPS is bad or you have a faulty connection...

if you think the IAC is bad, unplug it and try to idle... it won't be going back and forth, and you might get a better idle... that's what I had to do to mine to set the BISS, turns out I had mad boost leaks... after I got everything set, I plugged the IAC back in and it idled fine...

^oh, and my car has no metal clips on the TPS or Injectors, and after driving hard, the TPS connector comes loose sometimes, and when that happens, my idle goes crazy... I check the Throttle position on the AFC and it shows the idle position changing, and I just plug the TPS back in, and idle returns to normal...

that was a very imformative post... made me really think about this...

see, the afc does show that the tps is open sometimes. only sometimes will it actually say zero, and even when it says zero it sometimes has a surging idle. but most of the time it will bounce between 0 and 2.5 percent. if i floor the gas pedal really quickly and then let up quickly, it goes to zero, and the rpms usually sit at about 900-1000. i figured this was a problem with the throttle body. but the throttle has a nice crisp open and close, but when i attach the throttle cable, it gets spongey and doesnt close all the way. one thing though, if the throttle sits long enough closed without moving at all, it will "stick" in the shut position, and be a tad hard to move by hand, with the throttle cable on or off. but after i move it, it moves fine after that.

it normally idles at 1100 rpms, and usually it will stay at about that point on days that its running good. but if im driving and i let off the gas slowly, it will idle up to about 1500 or so and the afc will read about 2 percent throttle. so i cant really tell if its a sensor, or too tight of a cable, or mechanical or what.

one question i had but was afraid to ask because it seemed hard to ask, was....when i attach the tps to the throttle body, it seems the spinning piece INSIDE of the TPS has to be rotated just slightly to be able to sit on the throttle body, and in order for the two screws to line up at the same time. is this normal?

[eclipsed at 3am]

alright one thing...my car is cold hasnt been driven in about 4 hours. i just unplugged the iac and started it, and it ran like it normally does. i didnt want to pisss off my neighbors at night, so i just ran it for a minute or so. but when i plugged the iac back in, still running, it didnt change a thing. also the tps read 3 percent throttle before and after i plugged the iac back in and i hadnt even touched the gas

[gthompson97]

Alright I got the program working so here's how to test the TPS.

Total resistance (between terminals 1 & 4) should be 3500-6500 ohms. Varialbe resistance (between terminals 2 & 4) should change smoothly between 3500 and 6500 ohms as the throttle valve is moved from closed to wide open.