New owner with heater problem

[explicit408]

Originally Posted by trooperbc

you might want to follow the wire from the 'switch' to the heater box to see if you can tell it's not hooked up correctly. it's also possible the guy replaced just the heater core (not the whole box the way isuzu wants you to now) and he messed up one or more of those trap doors. any other ventilation problems?

no
but here's the site for the expensive one
www.helminc.com

good luck
//bc

What wire are you talking about? Do I have to remove the dash to follow it?

Wow that is a pricey manual. Will the Haynes manual be ok?

[Ramblin Fever]

Originally Posted by explicit408

What would explain the slushing sound if the t-stat was stuck open?

Besides, yesterday when I took the radiator cap off and started it, there was no flow until about 10-15 minutes of idling.

Got to tell you, the slushing sound, the foaming, and no heat are signs of what I know you don't want to hear.

This engine is not famous for headgasket issues, but can happen if it were ever allowed to overheat; wondering if truck was tweaked enough to sale it without obvious signs.

Been down that road myself twice in the last 3yrs - not with my Isuzu, but with an old Toyota truck.

Check the oil condition, make sure it doesn't resemble a chocolate shake of sorts.

[explicit408]

Originally Posted by Ramblin Fever

Got to tell you, the slushing sound, the foaming, and no heat are signs of what I know you don't want to hear.

This engine is not famous for headgasket issues, but can happen if it were ever allowed to overheat; wondering if truck was tweaked enough to sale it without obvious signs.

Been down that road myself twice in the last 3yrs - not with my Isuzu, but with an old Toyota truck.

Check the oil condition, make sure it doesn't resemble a chocolate shake of sorts.

I doubt it’s a blown head gasket. The sloshing sound is only audible sometimes. Oil via dipstick is nice and clean, no smoke coming from tail pipe, and I’m getting nice smooth power when I’m accelerating. Most importantly, it is not overheating. I took it a few times past 5k with no issues whatsoever.

The foaming only occured after I was reving the engine for a while with the radiator cap off.

[trooperbc]

Originally Posted by explicit408

What wire are you talking about? Do I have to remove the dash to follow it?

Wow that is a pricey manual. Will the Haynes manual be ok?

i'm talking about the wire cable that goes from the control lever assembly to the heater box. there are three cables, one is controlled by the temp control knob and goes to the temp control link of the heater box.

i haven't done this myself...yet; i'm going from my helms factory manual for 1992 trooper.

i would take off as much as necessary, which looks like the instrument panel cluster (the out trim around the dash instruments,radio,heater control assembly,radio etc), then r emove the 4 screws that hold the control lever assembly into the dash and then go from there. i assume you will be able to follow the wire cables. the temp control cable appears to be the one that goes straight back.

unfortunalely, the heater box itself is a real complicated setup of doors and flaps and if not reassembled correctly or set up correctly might have been installed wrong if the prev owner tried to fix something.

anyway, there's a whole procedure that shows how to adjust the cables, probably not difficult to do, but difficult for me not having done it to explain to you from the pictures -- maybe someone with the pdf version can post a screen shot of those pages for you.

i suppose it is also possible the air selectorcable from that knob isn't set up correctly either -- have you checked all the vents for possible heat?


i doubt the haynes manual will do you much good -- take off the shrink wrap in the store and see.

//bc

[trooperbc]

btw, here's the list of diagnostic causes in the helm factory manual for
No heating or insufficient heating.

1. blower motor does not run, or runs improperly.
2. engine coolant temp is low
3. insufficient engine cooolant
4. circulation volume of engine coolant is insufficient
5. heater core clogged or collapsed
6. the heater core is not provided with air sent from the blower motor
7. duct connections defective or unsealing

seems like we covered most all those, except maybe #7, so you might want to contort yourself under the dash and follow the ducting just to be sure

//bc

good luck. merry christmas.

[explicit408]

Originally Posted by trooperbc

btw, here's the list of diagnostic causes in the helm factory manual for
No heating or insufficient heating.

1. blower motor does not run, or runs improperly.
2. engine coolant temp is low
3. insufficient engine cooolant
4. circulation volume of engine coolant is insufficient
5. heater core clogged or collapsed
6. the heater core is not provided with air sent from the blower motor
7. duct connections defective or unsealing

seems like we covered most all those, except maybe #7, so you might want to contort yourself under the dash and follow the ducting just to be sure

//bc

good luck. merry christmas.

Thanks for all your help. Merry christmas to you as well.

[Ramblin Fever]

Originally Posted by explicit408

I doubt it’s a blown head gasket. The sloshing sound is only audible sometimes. Oil via dipstick is nice and clean, no smoke coming from tail pipe, and I’m getting nice smooth power when I’m accelerating. Most importantly, it is not overheating. I took it a few times past 5k with no issues whatsoever.

The foaming only occured after I was reving the engine for a while with the radiator cap off.

FWIW - my toyota had never overheated either, in fact, it's temp was below normal, no smoke and had exceptional power as well.

Just throwing out ideas to check is all, before they become major issues - IF in fact it is an issue. You've obviously ruled out the headgasket as being an issue, so that's good; get this heating issue fixed so you can see out the windshield, and that truck'll run forever.

Good luck to you, drive on my friend, you've got a nice truck and they love to be driven.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you.

[explicit408]

Originally Posted by Ramblin Fever

FWIW - my toyota had never overheated either, in fact, it's temp was below normal, no smoke and had exceptional power as well.

Just throwing out ideas to check is all, before they become major issues - IF in fact it is an issue. You've obviously ruled out the headgasket as being an issue, so that's good; get this heating issue fixed so you can see out the windshield, and that truck'll run forever.

Good luck to you, drive on my friend, you've got a nice truck and they love to be driven.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you.

Thanks. Sorry if I came off a little defensive. Happy Holidays

[Ramblin Fever]

No you weren't being defensive at all; I tend to come off a little paranoid for other people when they're vehicles are showing the same symptoms my Toyota had just to save them from the same expense that caught us off guard.

Have a good holiday.

[explicit408]

Does anyone know where I can get the pdf version of the shop manual?

[explicit408]

UPDATE:

After further inspection, turns out it was the temp. lever that was not working. The heater core looks pretty new and it gets hot. Looks like the previous owner had the heater core replaced and who ever did it did not install the heater box correctly like Trooperbc had mentioned. When I slide the lever to full hot it doesn't push the door all the way so I have to get my hand under there and pull it manually. They also didn't do a good job of bleeding the system causing the sloshing sound. Just thought I'd let you guys know. Thanks for all your help.

[surferfletch]

Thanks for posting the solution. Nice that you know now that the heater core is good for 100K or so!