Subaru Impreza WRC - Argentina 1999 Kankkunen

[rallymaster]

Originally Posted by SeanyG

Phil,

personally I think that the Safari version is too high for the Argentina rally, I know the teams run a much higher setting for the Safari rally and I dont think any of the other rally's come close.

If I were building it I would lower it.

Just my opinion, Im sure it will look great anyway.

... and when you gonna get back onto the Stratos ;-)

Sean

Hi Sean,

Mmm yes you're right, Safari is higher than Argentina...
And according to what I am finding on the web it's around 6 cm higher than other gravel settings...
So for 1/24 model around 2,5 mm, that begins to count !
I will lower the car... or maybe start my stratos ?
Hum not the stratos, I might do some so stupid mistakes as I am almost doing on the Sub !

thanks Sean

let's go back to the model.

Update later in the evening if everything goes well.

Phil

[freakray]

Glad Sean was right even if I wasn't.

[klutz_100]

This thread is hilarious!!!!

[rallymaster]

Originally Posted by freakray

Glad Sean was right even if I wasn't.

tss tss who said you wasn't right ?
I just tought and said I believed I could keep the original suspension setting, I never said you wasn't right !

Originally Posted by klutz_100

This thread is hilarious!!!!

Oh really ?
good, prefer "hilarious" to "ridiculous" !
nobody is perfect, I'm not, If needing time to confort or even change my opinions makes me lead this thread like a clown and is funny, that's fine ! I prefer that to missing good advices.

I don't think that changing opinions is so funny but I would admit that the way it appears there could be ridiculous...
I assume !
and the sub' goes on ! yeaaaaaahh



Update to come.

[rallymaster]

Well, after fun and philosophy let's go back to serious and modelling !

I reduced suspension length, front:



... and rear:



then I put the parts on the chassis:








In the same time I started working on the inside.

first step, rebuilding this ugly and unaccurate part:



by something more accurate but to be scratch built which start here:




That's all for tonight

Thanks for looking
comments welcome

Phil

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by rallymaster

Oh really ?
good, prefer "hilarious" to "ridiculous" !

Phil, just for the record I did say hilarious and NOT ridiculous.

I think you already know that I admire your skills and techniques greatly. It's just that - taking it all in one go - the thread did make funny reading up to that point. It was in no way a comment on you or your build.

I will be a "good boy" from now on and I'm sorry if I my post was ambiguous.

Your scratch built modification looks to be off to a good start.

PS Your are not only rallymaster but the SmileyMaster, too j/k

[bvia]

2 points I'd like to make (without getting into the constructive critisim debate!) is that;

1. Shiny does not necessarily mean that the paint has a smooth, flat surface. You can get a real shine over orangepeel..I know this firsthand...;-)>

2. You should NEVER sand metallic paints. The metallic particles are held in suspension within the carrier coat. Sanding thins the carrier coat and causes the "uniform" layer of metallic particles to become wavy (since you're removed the uniform carrier coat) and thus change the shade of paint. 1:1 auto painters call this "blushing", a splotchy, uneven metallic paintjob. The answer is to simply clearcoat and level the clear to a flat, smooth surface...luckily Tamiya's TS line and spray nozzle is an effective tool in creating smooth paintjobs that don't require sanding!

hth,
Bill

[rallymaster]

Originally Posted by klutz_100

Phil, just for the record I did say hilarious and NOT ridiculous.

I think you already know that I admire your skills and techniques greatly. It's just that - taking it all in one go - the thread did make funny reading up to that point. It was in no way a comment on you or your build.

I will be a "good boy" from now on and I'm sorry if I my post was ambiguous.

Your scratch built modification looks to be off to a good start.

PS Your are not only rallymaster but the SmileyMaster, too j/k

Hi Klutz,

don't worry I do know you didn't say ridiculous, I said that !
I know that reading that in one go could make people think I'm complitely crazy !
Well smileymaster I don't know, perhaps I think it could better significate the ton of what I say as I often doubt being well understood...
Ant that is funny, too !

Originally Posted by bvia

2 points I'd like to make (without getting into the constructive critisim debate!) is that;

1. Shiny does not necessarily mean that the paint has a smooth, flat surface. You can get a real shine over orangepeel..I know this firsthand...;-)>

2. You should NEVER sand metallic paints. The metallic particles are held in suspension within the carrier coat. Sanding thins the carrier coat and causes the "uniform" layer of metallic particles to become wavy (since you're removed the uniform carrier coat) and thus change the shade of paint. 1:1 auto painters call this "blushing", a splotchy, uneven metallic paintjob. The answer is to simply clearcoat and level the clear to a flat, smooth surface...luckily Tamiya's TS line and spray nozzle is an effective tool in creating smooth paintjobs that don't require sanding!

hth,
Bill

thank you for this contribution.
that's right, even if shine over orangepeel is not what I'm looking for !


Bye
Phil

[ales]

Phil, clearcoat hides minor orange peel. A very good way to check if it will in a particular case is to put the painted body under running water and look at the surface: if you see no orange peel under water, you'll be just fine. I'm sure you'll love it once you try it

[WasteGas]

Cool!!! looking forward at following a build thread from DA Master again!!!

[OrangeR]

Subscribed!

[rallymaster]

New update

here is the new height setting of the car:



The progress how to lower the car:

1°/ I cut the suspension and drilled a hole in each half and put a small glued iron tube in one hole :



2°/ I glue the second hole in which come the iron tube attached to the first half of the suspension:



3°/ putty work where the parts are joined :



And finally I sanded the putty and repainted the part.

When I see all this hated work on already painted parts I feel very stupid having thought I could keep the original setting...
But that's done, and it come pretty well at the final.


Next, I added some wires (made in heated and stretched plastic sprue) to the new electronic boxes :



Finally I started working on the rims; adding tyre valve, painting bolts...



... and the dashboard on which I started adding switches above buttons:





I firstly intend to cover the dashboard with Carbon decal, but it's simply impossible to cover the round edges of the driver part... decal doesn't come soft enough to match a multiple round edges parts.
I gave up carbon idea (even if it's difficult to admit )

Next update tomorrow if everything goes well

Thanks for reading
feedback welcome

Phil

[stevenoble]

The height setting looks ok to me.Good work on the dashboard etc.

[freakray]

Originally Posted by rallymaster

I firstly intend to cover the dashboard with Carbon decal, but it's simply impossible to cover the round edges of the driver part... decal doesn't come soft enough to match a multiple round edges parts.
I gave up carbon idea (even if it's difficult to admit )

It's not impossible, it just takes practice and patience

Here's the dash from my 1999 WRC Impreza:




Also note that by Safari 1999 SWRT were using the column mounted paddle shifter and had just a carbon fiber blank over where the shifter was on the transmission tunnel.

If you like, I can post some interior shots of my 1999 WRC Impreza so you can see how I did things.

[rallymaster]

hello guys,

thanks for posting here.

Originally Posted by freakray

It's not impossible, it just takes practice and patience
Here's the dash from my 1999 WRC Impreza:

Practive and patience I usually have both, but with my Carbon decals it's impossible, they are too hard and when softening them they crack too much easyly...
but maybe I didn't take the problem by the right extremity...
(I tried to cover the full driver board in one time, ooppss...)

perhaps will I try again with another carbon but the one I have is the only one that perfectly match the size and texture of carbon used on Sub dashboard.
I would better try to make paper sized patterns before using carbon to get the right sizes.

Yours seems fine and correct too, and what a work you did with it, seems perfect
which brand is it ?

Originally Posted by freakray

Also note that by Safari 1999 SWRT were using the column mounted paddle shifter and had just a carbon fiber blank over where the shifter was on the transmission tunnel.

If you like, I can post some interior shots of my 1999 WRC Impreza so you can see how I did things.

I don't really understand why you're speaking about safari 99 (I'm building Argentina and kit is 98 safari )

I still haven't found any pics of Argentina padlle shifter but they already used it if I am not wrong...
I wil have to scratch it.

If you have some pics to share no problem for me, this thread is a public one ! that would be very kind and helpfull for all everybody is welcome !

Thanks by advance.

Phil