88 2.8L s-10 EATING GAS

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by wyatt_earb

Changed the coolant temp sensor and the code went away. The code was " low voltage to map sensor" so the guy told me to change the coolant temp sensor and the code went away.

I believe I put a 160 degree thermostat in it, but it was eating gas before this. Not seeing why the timing would need resets, seems responsive or backfire, etc...

But I did notice the gas tank is still leaking, very lightly though. It's nothing like it was, infact it doesnt even drip to the ground, the frame is just moist with gas. I'm going to a self serve junk yard thats full of cars, so I'll hopefully pick up a tank there, along with a map sensor.

Are the s-10 trucks and blazers the same tanks? I figure they are, but never know. Also do most of the tanks from the 80s match up, 4.3s, 2.5, 2.8? And are the maps sensors from 2.8s all the same from the 80s era?

If anyone has any other advice it'd be greatly appreciated.

1) All timing needs to be reset from time to time.

2) Why you replaced a coolant temperature sensor when you got a MAP sensor code is beyond me.

3.) You have to cold of a thermostat in there. Your engine is running coldf and that will lead to tremendous losses in fuel economy. Change it out with a proper 192f thermostat and I bet you the economy will come up a lot. Plus resetting the timing will bring it up even more and will also net more power.

Focus on the problem at hand and we will worry about the fuel tank later.

[seadog95]

your vacuum switch on the transfer case maybe stuck open, check the cable linkage from the vacuum ball by the battery and note the travel when you shift in and out of 4 wheel drive with the car parked and idleing. if the cable doesn't move your front hubs are staying locked, if it is the vacuum switch you have to buy a new one, $26.00 at the dealer. you can't free up the old one, i've tried. i had to change one on my 87 and 01 blazer. just a thought.

[wyatt_earb]

I just got home, but I've got tomorrow off so I'll look at it tomorrow. I'll replace the thermostat and switch out the map sensors from my 87 2.8 s10 and see what happens there. Is the vacuum switch under the battery? If so I've checked that before and it moved freely. Although the 4 wheel drive did quit working last year, but it was just a bad EGR valve and it works fine now. Resetting the timing might be a bigger project, 1) I don't own a timing light and 2) I've never really messed with timing. But I have a couple of friends who work at the chrysler dealership at home so maybe I can persuade them to do it over the holidays. Also if I remember right it was getting bad gas mileage before I changed the thermostat... Thanks for all the help so far.

[BlazerLT]

For sure get the timing checked, the MAP sensor replaced and the thermostat changed with a 192.

Just go to the dealer and get the timing zero'd and have the piece of mind that it was done right with the timing wire disconnected.

This should improve things.

Also, what plugs did you use?

ADDITION: Check ALL your brakes on each wheels. My economy took a shit and it was a caliper sticking on and not releasing.

[wyatt_earb]

Not the breaks I just recently changed the pads. This is and old city car I got real cheap, it ran perfect for about a year and a half and now its being a stubborn old bitch. How much you think that'll cost, having the timing zeroed? I'm just a poor college student that likes to work on cars and is to cheap to take it in to get it worked on... On the plugs I used NGK, I've always used NGK.

Just because I'm curious, do you adjust the timing just like you do on an old carburated car? Losen the distributor and turn it?

[seadog95]

the vacuum switch is on top of the transfer case on the drivers side, 3 hoses into one rubber boot. 13/16" wrench to remove and there is a plastic tab between 2 of the hose connections to make sure you put the hose connection on the right way. if the ball check is stuck in you will see 1/4 of the ball showing if 1/2 of the ball is showing you are o.k. lube the o-ring and install again, just make sure the transfer case is in 2-wheel drive or you will never get it back in. you should be able to push the ball in and out by pressing it with your thumb

[wyatt_earb]

Switched out MAP sensors and changed the thermostat and the problem seem to be better so far... Although I'm not sure yet, I havent drove it enough. After changing the MAP sensor it seems to be idling higher, could the idle sensor need replaced aswell??

[wyatt_earb]

Still eating gas, same old story, song, and dance.

[BlazerLT]

Check your brakes again, just because you replaced the pad doesn't mean the caliper isn't sticking on.

I am getting really frustrated with you.

I tell you what to do and you won't do it.

[wyatt_earb]

What haven't I done? Changed sendors, changed thermostat..... And if you're talking about the timing, I didn't have that done b.c the guy at the shop said thats not the problem and would be a waste of my money.

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by wyatt_earb

What haven't I done? Changed sendors, changed thermostat..... And if you're talking about the timing, I didn't have that done b.c the guy at the shop said thats not the problem and would be a waste of my money.

Tell him to prove that and actually check it. In fact, by the sounds of it, your mechanic is clueless.

[wyatt_earb]

Done and done. Any other helpful insightful hints?

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by wyatt_earb

Done and done. Any other helpful insightful hints?

I'm outa here. Enjoy your guzzler truck, too bad you can't take good advice.

[wyatt_earb]

have to get some first...

[BlazerLT]

What an idiot

Whatever someone would suggest will be just over-ruled by your meathead mechanic which is taking you and your wallet for a ride.

Don't ask for help if you aren't going to do what is suggested, you are just wasting our f'n time.