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#16
09-13-2002, 03:41 AM
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All military differences aside, i hope you get yourself a kickass car:ylsuper
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12.86@121mph 1/4 mile Any1 wanna lend me their traction? 1987 300ZX Turbo Stage III++ Borla Stainless Steel Exhaust System, K & N Filter and intake w/ dual poppers, Apexi Boost Controller currently at 12-12.5psi, 3.73 gears, greenstuff brakes, 17 inch Z rated tires, suspension, and all guages are AutoMeter Guages if any1 cares. (a magician never reveals his tricks....not ALL of them at least) ALL THROTTLE, NO BOTTLE!! (pure power, not a bottle fed baby) "Racing in a honda is like the special olympics....even if you win, your still retarded" 1987 300ZX : $3000 All Modifications : $5000 Stomping someone that paid 3X's more for a "fast" car: Priceless 
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#17
09-13-2002, 05:21 AM
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I would advise against crate motors, it's cheaper to get a used motor and rebuild it just the way you want it.
The RX7 with Ford V8 gets about 20-25mpg as well. Something to consider... Also, the RX7 keeps a 50/50 balance if you move the battery to the trunk...
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 Connor - Porsche Nazi since 2001, VW defiler since 2004  This here's a Fabrication forum!  My lugnut requires more torque than your LS1 makes.
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#20
09-13-2002, 03:57 PM
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 mmmmmm.... :jump:
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#21
09-13-2002, 03:59 PM
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mmmmmm.... :jump:
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#23
09-14-2002, 08:10 PM
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really? wow. im going to look that up, i didn't see a EFI hemi but i must have overlooked it. you said it was new?
right now this is what im thinking of doing: 1979 Trans Am in good condition minus engine 350efi That really nice chevy blue paintjob they had New trans am decals (stock! no POWERED BY CHEVY shit) and then these: http://www.cragarforgedalloys.com/SS.html 18" in the back, 17" in the front what do you think? by the way heres a pic of the color scheme: http://www.allmusclecars.com/pontiac/1979transam.htm some real or fake HIDS would be nice  but the cosmetics is all dependent of the price of the car and engine i get when i buy them both, cause i want to keep it under $8000 so the money left over will go to the cosmetics. maybe ill splurge and do it all anyways 
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mmmmmm.... :jump:
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#24
09-16-2002, 01:05 PM
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You'll have to get a license plate that says Bandit on it.
 Yeah they just stated putting a new Hemi in the trucks. It is 345ci and more powerful than the Chevy 8.1L engines. It is a pushrod V8 with EFI and to spark plugs per cylinder. Should put out close to 400HP and over 400ft.lbs of torque. They plan to put it in the 1/2 tons in January and they make it sound like they will drop it in the Jeep and then after that there are rumors they are designing a new car to drop that beauty in. There are also talks of an EFI 383ci Hemi to add on to the 426, 511, and 528 Hemi. Tis a nice time to be a Mopar guy. 
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#25
09-17-2002, 08:28 PM
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could you post a link? im not finding the same statistics.
also im changing it to 17's in the back and 16's in the front, to give it more of a muscle show of tire, plus cost me less
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mmmmmm.... :jump:
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#26
09-18-2002, 07:15 AM
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If you're going the SBC route, I recommend getting a junkyard LT1 or LT4, and rebuiling it as a 383 stroker... you can make an easy 425hp on pump gas, in a civil daily driver. It'll still cost about as much as a crate motor, if you have a speed shop build the engine for you.
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Connor - Porsche Nazi since 2001, VW defiler since 2004 This here's a Fabrication forum! My lugnut requires more torque than your LS1 makes.
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#27
09-18-2002, 03:50 PM
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i need reliable, not junkyard and rebuilt
but thanks for the suggestion. plus depening on the prices of the labor and the original engine it may end up more
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mmmmmm.... :jump:
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#28
09-20-2002, 05:40 PM
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An engine built by a shop will most likely be a lot more reliable than a factory engine actually, just because the shop goes to the trouble of cleaning up everything the factory didn't. Like chamfering the oil galleys, balancing the rotating mass, that sort of thing. They usually magnaflux the block and chase all the threads too...
Unless you're putting out over 500hp, I can't imagine what you could do to make CSB unreliable  It all depends on the crate engine you pick as far as cost goes... You can get a box stock 250hp crate 350 for $2500, or a ZZ4 for about $4000. A professionally built fuelly LT1 making 400hp should set you back about $3000 plus core... A good LT1 should run $1000 from a wreckers, and even with 100,000 miles on it, it'll still be running strong. With a professional build on top of that, $4K in total, for a balanced, blueprinted motor, made with high quality components.
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Connor - Porsche Nazi since 2001, VW defiler since 2004 This here's a Fabrication forum! My lugnut requires more torque than your LS1 makes.
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#29
09-21-2002, 01:22 AM
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no offense but im pretty sure factory is alot better, unless you're paying an expert to do it like those bigblock shootouts where they have the top gm, ford, and mopar guys build an engine to see who can put out the most HP. but i definently couldn't afford one of those guys, so i'll take an engine whos displacement has been done over and over by GM (350) and is fuel injected by the same company who makes EFIs for millions of cars...
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mmmmmm.... :jump:
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#30
09-21-2002, 01:51 AM
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I'm just talking about a mild street build, not much more power than stock. Just the basics, like port matching, porting, balancing the motor, and setting up the ignition for whatever kind of fuel you'd like.
It's basically taking a crate engine and fixing all the niggling little imperfections, like casting flash in the ports, and an unbalanced rotating mass... At this point, with everything apart, I would probably stroke the motor to a 383 as well, just for the extra power. It doesn't hurt the reliability if it's done right. Your sig doesn't say where you are, but I'm sure there are a number of good shops that could clean up an engine to better than factory specs in your area.
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Connor - Porsche Nazi since 2001, VW defiler since 2004 This here's a Fabrication forum! My lugnut requires more torque than your LS1 makes.
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just a note
