Help....Will not start

[RedSolAZ]

ok, I checked voltage to the ICM last night. Here's what I found. First the harness is basically 2 harnesses in one mount that has a little bount to hold it to the ICM. Correct? One side has no black or pink so I didn't bother with that side. The other side however had no solid pink but 2 pink wires both with a black stripe.
Heres the order on the harness to show you what I checked.
slot #1-pink-black/stripe
#2yellow
#3pink black/stripe
#4Black voilet/stripe
#5black white/stripe
#6black
#7green black stripe.

Ok, so when I check from #1 to #6 I get 10.87v
from #3 to #6 .05v

I still need to check the injectors. I will go to town and have the ICM checked parts store.
Should I only be getting 10.87v shouldn't it be 12v or am I losing a little voltage as it flows thru the circuit?

I'm learning alot about this car. Doesn't seem to difficult jsut a little deeper then I would normally know how to fix on my own. And as for this 3800 this is a quick car when its running considering it's all stock and use to be an old ladies car.

[RedSolAZ]

Ok problem... Napa, Autozone or Napa will check the ICM to verify if good. Any body have a suggestion????

[Alibi]

I know Autozone will for sure. Have them test it several times though to kinda simulate heat build-up (ICM's tend to get flakey with heat-related issues).

[Mickey#1]

Originally Posted by RedSolAZ

Ok problem... Napa, Autozone or Napa will check the ICM to verify if good. Any body have a suggestion????

I think you have a typo in this post. Are you saying they can't check the ICM?


Here's what you need for spark.
Good Crank sensor/harmonic balancer.
Power to ICM.
Good ICM & coils.
Good plugs & wires.

You've already changed the crank sensor & harmonic balancer. We still can't rule that out because you could have replaced it with a bad part but let's move on for now.

I'm not sure why you said the ICM wiring harness is "basically 2 harnesses in one mount" . It should be one piece with a bolt running through the middle. If I remember correctly the pink/black wire with 12 volts is on the left hand side of the connector. It sounds like your getting 10.87 volts. Is the battery also checking 10.87?

From what we know so far it sounds like the ICM/coils are the prime suspect. Can you put your ICM & coils on another 3.8 car to check them out. If not I'd head to the junk yard & replace both. Actually you can check the resistance of the coils to rule those out. Remove & check the resistance of both the primary & secondary side of the coils. All three readings should be very close.

Have you pulled all six plugs & checked them out?

[Alibi]

Junkyard Icm and Coils are really risky.... I've never had any luck getting a good pair. If you know someone else with a 3800 of the same vintage, you can "borrow" thiers to check it. If you do get a junkyard set, you could use them temporarily (if they work at all) untill you can get a new set.

I still think that your icm or coils are shot. If the ICM tests fine, I'd say to go ahead and get some coils. There isn't a grey-green goo coming out of the connector by anychance? Go ahead and pull the coils off the ICM (should be 6 torx screws) and check for goo. If there is goo present, then you have your problem for sure and you'll have to replace both the ICM and coils.

[auto trainy]

I'm late to this post but has this car have vats system?

[RedSolAZ]

I know Autozone will for sure. Have them test it several times though to kinda simulate heat build-up (ICM's tend to get flakey with heat-related issues).

My Dad took part and confirmed didn't take to Autozone... I have ICM now and will personally take to Autozone.

If I remember correctly the pink/black wire with 12 volts is on the left hand side of the connector. It sounds like your getting 10.87 volts. Is the battery also checking 10.87?

I can double check but I think I checked the Battery and its still giving out 12v. I know that I need to put another cahrge on batterso will do and check again.

From what we know so far it sounds like the ICM/coils are the prime suspect. Can you put your ICM & coils on another 3.8 car to check them out. If not I'd head to the junk yard & replace both. Actually you can check the resistance of the coils to rule those out. Remove & check the resistance of both the primary & secondary side of the coils. All three readings should be very close.

No, I don't know anybody with the same car or engine. I have already thought of trying that. How Do I chech the Resistance on the coils. They only have the plug wire on top and 2 connectors on bottoms.


I agree with Alibi I don't want to buy junkyard electric parts this has never worked out for me in the past. I don't mind buying the parts needed to get fix just cant pay the mechanic to do all this and put them on.

Also Alibi.... There is no goo coming out of anything. This engine is very clean. no leaks of anykind or goo leaking out of packs that I have seen. I will double check .

[RedSolAZ]

Originally Posted by auto trainy

I'm late to this post but has this car have vats system?

VATS???? What's that

[RedSolAZ]

Originally Posted by Alibi

Junkyard Icm and Coils are really risky.... I've never had any luck getting a good pair. If you know someone else with a 3800 of the same vintage, you can "borrow" thiers to check it. If you do get a junkyard set, you could use them temporarily (if they work at all) untill you can get a new set.

I still think that your icm or coils are shot. If the ICM tests fine, I'd say to go ahead and get some coils. There isn't a grey-green goo coming out of the connector by anychance? Go ahead and pull the coils off the ICM (should be 6 torx screws) and check for goo. If there is goo present, then you have your problem for sure and you'll have to replace both the ICM and coils.

Alright the ICM checks out good. tested it about 10 times. Besides it will not start even when cold so getting it to warm up should make no difference.

When I get home tonight I will Ohm out the primary and secondary side of coils...
I was advised that the primary side should have about .3 resistance and secondary side should have around 4.1 (I have written down in car). This is correct???? I will also double check all fuses, wires and battery. Any other suggestions???

[Mickey#1]

Primary side should readings should be around .5 to 1 ohm. Secondaries should be around 5,000 to 10,000 ohms.

[Alibi]

The goo is caused by a bad Coil, but it doesn't always happen when a coil goes bad.

Since the ICM checks good, I'd say your next culprit is the coil. Are all the mounting bolts to the ICM snug? Are all the battery cables clean and free of corrosion?

The VATS system is a flakey GM security system...I don't think it was available until '92 but I could be wrong. I doubt that the 89 would have come factory equipped with it (or at least I've neve seen/owned one).

[RedSolAZ]

Ok here we go.. I ohm the coils they are good. So I start over....My borhter checked the fuses before and advised no problem.. worng... found a blown. fuse. Problem is that I don't have a fuse diagram for the fuse box..

The fuse is in the #10 slot on the fuse panel. If I turn over the car it starts for about a half a second dies and this fuse is blown. I rechecked the wires going to the Crank sensor and they are rough. 1 wire is exsposed right at the harness and another about an inch up. I tape them up real good tries to start again ,, same thing :-(

Anyone know what this #10 fuse is or can you post pic of a fuse diagram for a 87 Delta 88 royale ..........

[RedSolAZ]

Any ideals on what this fuse is for? Again I can get the car to start but only runs for a milla second and then dies.. When I check fuse #10 it is blown.
The fuses are number 1 thru 20 something fuse #10 is the one that keeps blowing.
Any ideal what is the weak link in that circuit to check for or known problem areas. I don't what to go tearing into the dash if there is common place to look first.

[Mickey#1]

I found a wiring diagram that shows fuse #10 is for an 'alarm module'. Looks like the alarm module works with a 'low coolant module'.

There should be a wire by the battery that goes to the fuel pump. You can check for 12 volts going to the fuel pump by connecting your volt meter to this wire & the negative battery terminal. Should have 12 volts for a couple seconds when the key is in the run position & should have a constant 12volts while cranking.

You can also check for fuel injector pulse with a #194 light bulb. Straighten the wires on the bulb & insert into one of the fuel injector connectors. The bulb should 'pulse' while cranking. By 'pulse' I mean it will never light completely or go out completely. It will just glow at different brightness.