stereo lighting

[Blue Bowtie]

Does it have four smaller controls along the bottom edge for fade, balance, bass, and treble?

[muff34]

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

Does it have four smaller controls along the bottom edge for fade, balance, bass, and treble?

yes it does

[Blue Bowtie]

Then you'll need to get about eight #8098 lamps, disassemble the radio and faceplate, desolder the failed lamps:



And solder in the new ones:



If you have difficulty finding the lamps, you can order them here:

http://www.jaytronics.com/

Of any number of other places.

[muff34]

Ok, Thanks alot we`ll give it a shot or melt it down trying ....LOL
Muff

[kenwood guy]

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

Then you'll need to get about eight #8098 lamps, disassemble the radio and faceplate, desolder the failed lamps:



And solder in the new ones:



If you have difficulty finding the lamps, you can order them here:

http://www.jaytronics.com/

Of any number of other places.

so its just a matter of replacing the bulbs??? I want to make mines blue do they carry them?

[muff34]

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

Then you'll need to get about eight #8098 lamps, disassemble the radio and faceplate, desolder the failed lamps:



And solder in the new ones:



If you have difficulty finding the lamps, you can order them here:

http://www.jaytronics.com/

Of any number of other places.

um ,how the heck did you separate the face plate .Lots of tiny screws /bolts in there ,any tricks to it? oh ya ,do you know voltage of the bulbs .Parts guy at stereo shop got all pissy when I asked for 8098 bulbs , said that number meant nothing to him. He had 6,8 or12 volt bulbs .sold me the 12`s said it should do .hopefully we`ll see

[FrankB43015]

I wish I read all the way through this thread before I tried mine... I'll just use the dome light or buy a new radio - it'll be easier!

[Blue Bowtie]

8098 is an industry standard lamp number designaion for miniature lamps, whether they are Sylvania, G.E., Chicago Miniature, or even some Chinese import. Going to an auto parts store for electronics is tantamount to visiting a drug store for a kidney transplant. 99-44/100% of the time, the person to whom you speak there MAY have some vague idea of that which you ask. "Umm... yeah. Light bulb? I know what those are - I think..."

You need a T1-1/4, 14V incandescent lamp (or a box of them) for your radio illumination. The voltage, light output, envelope size, lead configuration, and life hour ratings are all determined by that part number. For comparison, an 8099 lamps has the exact same characteristics, but is rated at 18V.

Try an electronics store, or call/email the link I provided. That's where I got mine. You can also get them from any TRUE electronics supplier, such as Allied, Newark, or any number of others.

[guumbah]

Got the bulbs and sockets to do my cluster today! I also started on the HVAC controls. I've been taking pics along the way, so I'll post when I'm done. So far, I've done two of the bulbs. I've either guessed wrong on the polarity, or messed something up, though, because they do not illuminate. Chuck16, when you did yours, did you de-solder all the bulbs, then do the LEDs one at a time and test them, or did you pull the bulbs one at a time, then replace and test the LEDs in one step for each one? I'm not sure if the non-illumination is due to the fact that I have five empty connections (like maybe they are dependent on each other like old Christmas lights) or just because I've reversed plus minus. Or even worse, I fried something. I'm not that bad at soldering, so I don't think I fried anything, but you never know....

[chuck16]

Originally Posted by guumbah

Got the bulbs and sockets to do my cluster today! I also started on the HVAC controls. I've been taking pics along the way, so I'll post when I'm done. So far, I've done two of the bulbs. I've either guessed wrong on the polarity, or messed something up, though, because they do not illuminate. Chuck16, when you did yours, did you de-solder all the bulbs, then do the LEDs one at a time and test them, or did you pull the bulbs one at a time, then replace and test the LEDs in one step for each one? I'm not sure if the non-illumination is due to the fact that I have five empty connections (like maybe they are dependent on each other like old Christmas lights) or just because I've reversed plus minus. Or even worse, I fried something. I'm not that bad at soldering, so I don't think I fried anything, but you never know....

Hey Guumbah,

I desoldered one then tested, then desoldered the next and tested. In retrospect I could have just put a volt meter on and found out which one was + and which one was - but, I was just being slow is all. I don't think that the lights could be in series cause then there would be no way of the LED working one at a time with the blown lights in place....
Happy Soldering....

Evan

[guumbah]

Originally Posted by chuck16

Hey Guumbah,

I desoldered one then tested, then desoldered the next and tested. In retrospect I could have just put a volt meter on and found out which one was + and which one was - but, I was just being slow is all. I don't think that the lights could be in series cause then there would be no way of the LED working one at a time with the blown lights in place....
Happy Soldering....

Evan

That's what I thought about them being in series too. Thanks. I'll get off my lazy butt and dig out the multimeter from its hiding place in the garage and verify the polarity.

[guumbah]

So, we were half right. I looked more closely at the circuit, and realized that it's two pairs of lights wired in series on the main board. The four on the small board are all parallel. But following the circuit back from ground, it's actually pretty obvious once I traced the lines with a pointer and not just my eye. I flipped two of the LED assemblies around, and all is well. I'll put up a thread tomorrow with pics and such for kenwood guy and anyone else who is interested.

[sanders71]

where do you buy your leds? is it a gm product or any auto parts store?

[Blue Bowtie]

Neither. Any electronics supplier should have whatever color and intensity you need.