Could use a hand...

[92 Firebird]

Originally Posted by hotrod_chevyz

NP. The places i mentioned are typical locations that cover several years. I dont actually have any firebird books, and ive never owned a 92'.

I use FURON for fittings like that. A friend of mine has a plentiful supply of it so ive never bought it. Its like regular thread tape only way better.

If it bolts to the front of the intake then its different than i actually had pictured, and ive seen some exactly as morley said. Im mostly goin by memory of past jobs. Mines on the side of the head but thats somthing i put there. My 82 has a 350 wich is hard to keep cool so i added a 195 degree switch wired to a relay to turn on the electric fan.

Yup, its just like he said. Thanks too, Morley. Yea, that's exactly what my mechanic found and wanted to find out why it was like that, he thinks there is a problem elsewhere that someone would hook it up like that. My guess is that even though he is a good mechanic for a lot of things and doesn't charge me an arm and a leg, he doesn't know these kind of cars as well as someone who knows these kinds of cars does.

Originally Posted by HRCZ

It has a 6 blade flex fan with no clutch, wich you would think could manage the job, but it dont. On a hot day sitting in a taco bell line waiting for food ive seen both temp gauges go up past 230. With the added electric fan i can keep it under 200 sitting still at a FF restaraunt.


If that doesnt help dig this thread up and we will figure out a way to make your fan blow. Make sure they hand you the right part so you arent replacing the wrong thing.

The fan should have two wires. One side is +12 volts, the other side is the ground. If you have to wire it yourself remember the fan will spin both ways but the air is supposed to be sucked through the radiator by the fan.

Hope your on the road to fixin your problem and welcome to the forum. Lots of these people here know what they are talking about.

Thank you for the welcome, and I'm sure there are a lot of guys who know what they are talking about here, I'm grateful. Hey, I've truly been in that Taco Bell line, no lie, in the middle of the line where you cannot get out because there is a barrier and my car was getting red hot. Not only is it the most scariest thing because your car (which is close to your heart) is dying, but its embarrasing too. I finally got to the end of the line and told the lady at the window I had to park it in the lot immediately to let it cool off. She was taken back by what I had to tell her, I guess people don't tell her that their car is overheating every day. That's so funny. I'm glad to know that I am not the only one who has been in that position before, its weird how people have similar experiences. Thanks again for your help, you are truly appreciated, and I will definitely come back and post should I have any other questions. I'm glad I found this forum.

[92 Firebird]

Oh, this is just too frustrating! My car is still overheating. I changed the temperature sensor, and it ran good for a few days, now it is back to overheating. If the air conditioner is on, it overheats faster, but it still does it when the air conditioner is off. Sometimes it surges if I have the air conditioner on, and it surges hard too.

I really need some help here. Does anyone have any ideas what this problem could be? Everything mechanical seems to check out fine, at least that is what my mechanic said last, then he wanted to have the electrical system checked. Do you think it could be that? Do you think I should go ahead and pay the extra expense to have the radiator system flushed out?

Please help me, I don't know what to do.

[hotrod_chevyz]

I would flush the entire coolant system, and check it for flow. The radiator could be partially clogged causing extra heat. Very common problem.

If the water pump blades are worn down from corrosion, it could cause poor flow throughout the system. this is not very common but ive seen several like this so if all else fails you may have to pull it down and inspect it. Ford probes are especially bad about that...

Ive seen several thermostats throughout the years be faulty brand new in the box, so never rule this out. This is actually the most common problem ive faced working with GM style thermostats. They can open too early, wich doesnt let the water hang out in the radator long enough to cool down. If they open too late it also causes overheating cause the water stays in the block too long. A conventional oven set to the right temp can tell you if the thermostat is working right. Just put the stat in some water in a temperature resistant container and let it heat up in the oven and see what it does.

If the fuel mixture or ignition timing is off (electrical) It can cause higher combustion temperature, but shouldnt be bad enough to make it boil over. If this were the case other performance related issues would be apparent.

BTW if you have a 195 thermostat you might want to try a 180 thermostat. They open earlier.