Ok I Give Up!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by procrstinator

im figureing theres no ground signal to the injectors from the PCM or there would be fuel spraying in the cylinders to run.

If you've confirmed the fuel injectors are not spraying or being inhibited then you may actually have a Passlock related problem. I did some research and Passlock works like Passkey/VATS. One thing it does is send a pulse width modulated signal to the PCM module to enable the fuel injectors. I'm quite sure the source of the signal is the BCM module since the key cylinder interfaces with that component.

BTW - You may have an ignition switch problem.

[procrstinator]

yeah i think ill check into the ign.switch,ive pretty much been everywhere else.

[Mickey#1]

You need to find out for certain whether or not the fuel injectors are getting grounded from the PCM. I've used a #194 light bulb to make sure the injectors are being fired.

[BNaylor]

I wouldn't waste too much time hunting down this so called ground. Based on what he has said so far it appears the injectors are not being pulsed.

Plus accessing the fuel injectors on the GM 3.4L V6 is not easy including hooking up any device such as a test lamp or NOID light. Plus he is hindered by using poor reference materials like a Chiltons or Haynes manual.

On the 3.4L V6, 12 volts is always present at one side of the fuel injector coil when ignition is at run/start. The 12 volts can be checked at the fuse socket for minifuse #48 (engine compartment fuse box) which is the fuel pump/injector fuse. Also, make sure that fuse is good.

The pulse from the injector control line from the PCM for each fuel injector would have to go "low" or as he put it in his terms "ground". At that point the injector does it's thing for that short period of time. At all other times the fuel injector control line is high meaning the injector(s) does not fire.

From what I can see the fuel injector control lines are being inhibited possibly due to the Passlock problem and as seen by his SECURITY light. If he gets this issue resolved then he will be able to see what further internal engine problems he has, if any at all.

[xeroinfinity]

This does sound like an ignition switch problem, but I .....

Start with some obviuos, Does the key look dirty?
or hav things hanging from it(trinkets) ?
Does the key pull out when in the "on" position?
(these should all be NO )

He said the injectors were replaced, were they New or remanufactured/rebuilt?
or were the old ones cleaned ???

You can test the injectors at the harness for the injectors on these 3.4s, not at the injector, because you cant get to them with the niod or really anything.

Just follow the wires from the injectors to the main harness connector, and test with the niod and check voltages at the PINK wire, they should Ohm out between11.4--12.6ohms this is done with the key "on" or while cranking it over. If no power is at the injector then check the feulpump/injector fuse.

Also thiers a ground on the intake for the injection system, if its loose it will cause a no start or make it seem as if thiers more serious problems then their really is. This could hav been overlooked when injector work was done.

A lean fuel mix , or misfire will cause the motor to sound rough, as if something else was wrong.

that is whats funny, he's replaced all that stuff which could hav been tested first
I hate throwing $$ at something like that.

Dont take it personal anyone, the stealership should hav been able to diagnose the problem to a "T" , and tell you whats wrong.

hope this all helps procrstinator

something I forgot is the crankshaft position sensor, thiers two on the v6.
The 7x is on the firewall side of the motor, the 24x is on the CS behind harmonic balancer(CS Pully).
Check them for broken or loose wires, both can be tested too.

The 7x is a pita to get to, thiers two wires for this one at the ignition control mod a purple and a yello they need to be tested in AC, should be at least 200millivolts when cranking over, if not replace it.
THe 24x on the CS (passengerside), first check for power from the pcm.
Disconnect the plugin, connect the positve on the voltmeter to the red/white wire and the ground to the black wire terminal turn the key on and it should be 12vlts, if not check the wiring from the 24x to the pcm.
To check for operation is a bit moer involved, reconnect the plugin. Using a probe, back probe the light blu/black wire terminal of the CSPS and connect the positve lead of the voltmeter to the probe and the negative to an engine ground. Turn the key on, it should be about 10vlts. Now rotate the engine slowly(by hand) with a breaker bar and socket on the CS bolt, while reading the meter it should read between 10vlts to 0 as the blades pass the interpruter ring passed the CSPS.
If its not with in those tolerances, replce the 24X CS postion sensor.

[diannedawn]

Yeah, your dealer sounds like a rip off artist just like mine. I knew nothing about this whole VATS / PASSKEY / PASSLOCK issue until I started reading posts last night after being very frustrated and loosing $800 on my 96 Monte Carlo.... Search forum with "96 monte carlo won't start" if your intrested in reading my story.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by diannedawn

Yeah, your dealer sounds like a rip off artist just like mine. I knew nothing about this whole VATS / PASSKEY / PASSLOCK issue until I started reading posts last night after being very frustrated and loosing $800 on my 96 Monte Carlo.... Search forum with "96 monte carlo won't start" if your intrested in reading my story.

Interesting story. I agree with one of the posters about using WD40.

The problem is cleaning and lube may only be a temporary cure. The key cylinder/ignition switch should be replaced because it is worn out, otherwise the problem may come back.

Give the dealer hell. Good luck!

[xeroinfinity]

Actually WD40 can short out the ignition switch.

They make a special dry lube for eletronics thats best used,
but as BOB said,
replace the Ignition switch and it should fix the problem the right way.

Good Luck