92 climate control

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by Garfield2

feedback?? Ok.. looks like in your picture you're developing a bald spot. Could be from a freon burn or standing too close to a rocket launch, or sun spots.

For freon on the 92 PA, most qualified A/C and heating companies can do a charge on the car. Might cost but not the price of a new car. Or as they said in the movie "Second Hand Lion" ....just learn to do without!

Actually, the post I was requesting feedback on was; (Cntrysthbst 10-4. I'll post that tomorrow, and thanks!)

My receding hair line, was well earned! Back in the "good ole days", I owned a jet boat with dual air horns, powered by “R-12 Freon”. Back then, you could by a twelve pack of R-12 cans, for less than 15 bucks. When I blew the horns, at 80 MPH, the Freon would blow back in my face. I also spent a lot of time in the “sun” during that time and was totally unaware, that every time I used those big horns, I was depleting the Ozone above me! I actually did visit Cape Kennedy once, during one of the launches of the Challenger!! So I guess your assumptions may be totally correct!

[Garfield2]

When I lived in Seattle back in the Late 1970's early 1980's I worked for Boeing. I bought a 1977 Honda Civic Hatchback and put in a dual horn under the hood, directly wired to the wire for the regular horn electrical. Sounded like a TRUCK! 2 girls walking home from school, seemed to quickly loose control of the books they were carrying in from of them....perhaps they were discussing Thoreau at the time of the honk. More than one person/vehicle sure give way to that little Civic when they encroached a little too close on mhy space. My dad HATED it when I'd pull up in his driveway in Renton and honk it while he was under the hood of some car

The car was totaled in an accident that completely demolished the right side where the horns were and never got another pair. Kind of miss those horns!

[paulsg63]

Originally Posted by HotZ28

.........One thing you might try before throwing in the towel, is to go through the ACC “reset” procedure & see if it will reset. Sometimes, in very hot conditions, the high or low-pressure switches will go out or range and set the flashing code.

I would love to try this ACC reset... I have searched but cannot find the procedure for this.

Can someone let me know how to do this reset??

Thanks
Paul G

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by paulsg63

I would love to try this ACC reset... I have searched but cannot find the procedure for this.

Can someone let me know how to do this reset??

Thanks
Paul G

Paul, welcome to AF!
Well before asking, I did look at what kind of car you had listed in your profile and all I found was a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. If you also have a Buick, before we can answer this question, we need to know what year and if it has ACC (Auto climate control).

[paulsg63]

Originally Posted by HotZ28

Paul, welcome to AF!
Well before asking, I did look at what kind of car you had listed in your profile and all I found was a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. If you also have a Buick, before we can answer this question, we need to know what year and if it has ACC (Auto climate control).

Sorry... its a 92 Buick Park Ave... similar to the thread starter. But the exact same symptoms... wanted to try the reset first... since I am on vaca and don;t have access to my tools, etc.

THANKS!
Paul G

[HotZ28]

When the ACC control unit starts flashing, it is storing a fault code. You may be a little low on Freon, or you could have other problems. Use the procedure below, to see if you can retrieve the codes. After resetting the codes, the compressor should cycle on. If not, try disconnecting the battery negative cable for 30 sec. That will clear any memory from the ACC & PCM.


This procedure will work on 1992 -1993 models with ATC, and may also work on 1988-1991 models.

The diagnostic mode also contains a data list mode and an override mode.

Be careful not to select modes 01 or 02, as these are different modes, and may cause problems.

If you suspect you are in the wrong mode, press OFF repeatedly until you exit to normal mode. If the temperature display flashes for 2 minutes when the ignition is turned to RUN, a trouble code is set.

1. Turn ignition to RUN. Press OFF and WARM (temperature up) buttons simultaneously. (Hold in buttons until flashing segment test begins).

2. Watch the segment test, then the trouble codes will be displayed.

3. Code Key:

00 - No codes

10 or 110 - Ambient Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.

13 or 113 - In-Vehicle Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.

15 or 115 - LH Solar Sensor circuit open or shorted.

35 or 135 - Data Line failure - HVAC Control Assembly

38 or 138 - Data Line failure - PCM

40 or 140 - Driver Air Mix Motor circuit open or shorted, or not calibrated

48 or 148 - Long Term Freon Loss

52 or 152 - Keep Alive Memory lost; sets with battery disconnected

66 or 166 - Low Freon

A number 1 prefix indicates a history trouble code

4. Press OFF twice once codes are displayed to end diagnostic mode, OR to clear trouble codes, press FAN DOWN three times (make sure 03 is displayed).

Once 03 is displayed, press FAN UP to clear trouble codes. Then repeatedly press OFF to end diagnostic mode.

[paulsg63]

Thanks HotZ28!!!!

I found that it is code 66. Low freon.

I am on vacation and have a dealer said they could charge the system for $175.00 . As long as there were no leaks.

Does that sound reasonable? $175.00 ?

Thanks again for the info.

Paul G
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[HotZ28]

Since you have R-12 in the system, it is hard to find anyone willing to evacuate, test for leaks holding a vacuum and recharge for less than $150.00. If I were you, I would call several shops that do AC work and get a second or third opinion! In addition, you might want to consider changing over to R-134a. Most shops in my area will do the complete conversion for around $150.00. It is much cheaper and easier to find R-134a than R-12.
Minimum requirements for converting a system to R134a.

[paulsg63]

Originally Posted by HotZ28

Since you have R-12 in the system, it is hard to find anyone willing to evacuate, test for leaks holding a vacuum and recharge for less than $150.00. If I were you, I would call several shops that do AC work and get a second or third opinion! In addition, you might want to consider changing over to R-134a. Most shops in my area will do the complete conversion for around $150.00. It is much cheaper and easier to find R-134a than R-12.
Minimum requirements for converting a system to R134a.

THANKS again for the info!!

I found a place that will recharge the R-12 and fix the valve thats leaking for about $200.00.. since I'm on vacation and don't have any other transportation... thats the quickest solution.

THANKS!

It's wierd... while I was talking with the shop on the phone... my bro in law calls and says there is no AC at my house. Had someone come out and see... 28 year old unit... no parts... needs replaced... over $5 grand!!!

YEEESH!!! Whts with the AC deal!!! All when I'm on vacation!!

Paul G
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