Silent/Balance Shaft - Page 2

Blaiser17 · #16 06-01-2006, 03:53 PM

I bought a completely rebuilt head and a balance shaft kit. A new piston is in shipment to me. The kit I bought for the balance shafts, doesn't contain much information on what to do. I was curious if anyone had a before and after picture by any chance. I searched but couldn't find one. Also, what are the balance shafts there for if we end up remvoing them anyway for this kit? Whats the point of having them there in the first place? What do they do in the first place, and what is this kit going to do differently to work better? Thanks guys

blk_srt · #17 06-01-2006, 04:37 PM

balance shafts are there to balance your motor. How they work is the off set the vibrations made by the rotating assembly so removing them will cause more viberations but on the upside you dont have to worry about it breaking a belt and hurting your timing belt

kjewer1 · #18 06-01-2006, 09:15 PM

To be technically correct, the balance shafts have nothing to do with the balance of the motor. They just counter the motors natural vibrations so all the pussies that though the 1g lagged too much won't cry about it

No more vibration will be created, but more may be felt. IMO, with a 3" exhaust you can't tell the difference anyway. Just be sure the stubby oil shaft in the BS eliminator kit has a groove in it. If you are unable or uncomfortable removing the front shaft's bearings and turning them to block the oil holes, just leave the front shaft in place but don't put a belt to it.

Blaiser17 · #19 06-05-2006, 11:13 AM

Alright well I just got my cylinder head in from shipment, but I wanted to make sure that it is in fact a turbo before I put it on, I mean thats what I ordered but I want to know for sure. Is there a way of determining this?

Blaiser17 · #20 06-17-2006, 01:02 AM

Well I installed the balance shaft elimination kit, it wasn't too bad at all. Just use an extension bar and a big socket to both knock out the old bearings and put in the new ones. I also replaced the piston and dropped the engine back into the car. I'm about to put the new head on, but I had a question regarding the valves. Since it's new, all the valves are down, and this of course wouldn't normally happen. Do I need to rotate the cams to a certain point for each valve, or will it work as is, being that they are all down. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. You guys have been a huge help.

kjewer1 · #21 06-18-2006, 11:50 PM

What do you mean by "the valves are all down?" With the cam dowel pins at 12 oclock, the valves should mostly be closed, with a couple just a mm or two open. If the cams are not at 12 oclock, I guess that is what you are talking about then. The head should be installed with the pins at 12 to be safe, plus thats where they need to be to do th tbelt anyway.

I also like to put the block at #1 TDC, then rotate counter clockwise a quarter turn, so all pistons are at the midpoint of the stroke, jst to be safe. Then when its time to put the belt on, rotate it clockwise to the mark.

Blaiser17 · #22 06-19-2006, 02:23 PM

Yup, thats what I meant, thanks man! I'll do that today and post how it goes.

Blaiser17 · #23 06-20-2006, 10:19 PM

Well I put the timing belt on today with the cylinder head. It was weird though. One cam was at 12 o clock and the other was at 6, in order to have the timing marks matched up. Will this cause a problem even though the timing marks are next to each other?

How would that occur? I also had a question about the 2 drive belts (power steering, air conditioning). How do I tell them apart? I mean I know the route each one goes, I just can't tell the difference between them. Both have grooves, but one also has cross-sectional grooves to make small teeth almost. Which is which I'm sure you all know, but I'm new to all this. Thanks again, I appreciate it.

Could it be that the person I bought it off of had either 2 intake cams or 2 exhaust cams on it? And if so, will it be able to run this way with the timing marks lined up still?

kjewer1 · #24 06-20-2006, 10:43 PM

The dowel pins have to be at 12 oclock. There is no way around this. The cam gears should have timing marks at 9 and 3 oclock.

For the belts, put them on and see what fits

The alternator one should be slightly longer though, IIRC. I could be wrong. I tossed the AC back in 02.

tfoti · #25 07-02-2006, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjewer1

If you are unable or uncomfortable removing the front shaft's bearings and turning them to block the oil holes, just leave the front shaft in place but don't put a belt to it.

I just found my balance shaft broken and it slung up against the timing belt. The timing belt is just fine and never skipped teeth...I decided I wanted to do the b-shaft elimination but in the meantime, accoring to Kevin's quote, I can just drive it without the belt? I thought this was a serious no-no?

kjewer1 · #26 07-02-2006, 10:51 PM

Yes and no

Don't: Drive it with "no belt," if no belt means it's not connected but still sitting up in there behind the tbelt. We all know that's bad.

Don't: Run no front bshaft with the rear shaft still in. Without the front shaft to counter balance the rear shaft, you'll get a bunch of vibration, usually above 3500 rpm or so.

Do: Leave the front shaft in with no belt, AND remove the rear shaft and replace with the grooved stubby shaft. This way you effectively have no bshafts.

I posted more about this in your other thread before I saw this one...

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