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#16
12-06-2001, 05:58 PM
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Reply to Kerpalstaxi's good & bad about the 91 MR2 NA.
About them sucking in snow, above about 35MPH, yes, they can be very scary, but below that they take off fairly well with most of the weight on the rear wheels. About eating tires, mine eats the rear tires very quickly (also an NSX problem) but the fronts have shown almost no wear at all. Also buy good performance rain tires (I have now the Kuhmo 245/45/16s on back and they are really nice for the price). If that back end hydroplanes on you at freeway speeds (as it did on mine with bald tires) you will be going sideways instantly. Anyone out there have rear alignment specs to lessen tire wear but not handling? I'm 6'3" and fit in the car OK, but have no extra headroom. I did fool with the seat bottom a little to get my butt lower. T-tops leak and more importantly, take a big bite out of the structual rigidity of the car. Get the moorroof version as I have. (looking for a solid roof '91). Most of the parts are about as hard to find as they are for a 4 cyl Camry. Yes, the shifting of the trans is not great. Any improvement ideas out there? The throttle cable gets sticky and slow after many miles. I'd hate to dig one out. I bought the NA because I wanted good low end torque, it's my daily driver. The NA has enough power to go up any highway hill in 5th gear. My issue with it is getting it to run cleanly and get the throttle response to be a alot more snappy (lightweight flywheel will help). In the NA you have an excellent chassis with a mundane Camry motor thrown in. The programming in the stock computer must have been designed for old grannys (again the Camry roots). Very slow to ramp up the fuel rise. My goal is to put an aftermarket ECU on it and then work on getting more air into/out of it. The turbo has, IMHO, no low end power and bad boost lag, but if you only want a weekend warrier than that's the car for you. Last edited by revac; 12-10-2001 at 05:49 PM. 
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#17
12-12-2001, 04:09 PM
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What do you guys mean you cant do much to the N/A? my 94' MR2 N/A has 376 crank hp! and it is all motor. best 1/4 mile on nitto slicks is an 11.76@118mph. Anything is possible with enough money. if you do your homework and find every part you can for it and spend close to 8 thousand on the motor it is possible and you will go faster than the turbo and be more reliable. ive got about 12K on this motor with no problems. the only complaint is that gas mileage is down to about 12 mpg around town and i have to change my oil every 2 thousand miles instead of 3 thousand. but because you dont have to wait for turbos to spool i get better launches than the turbo mr2. so depending on how insane you want to go with it depends on how fast it goes. oh yeah and one more way to go faster in the car. get the bottom end blueprinted and balanced and get it to racing tolerances. Paeco does this for about $2500. and switch the N/A tranny for the turbo. for one you have a better LSD Differential and its geared differant. youll go a couple miles an hour faster in each gear. plus if you have it balanced it revs higher so now i am closer to 40 mph in first rather then like 32 mph. hell i got 80 mph in second! and it get there quick. so if im online instant message me and il tell you the parts list of what to get and where. hope it helped.
__________________
--Ryan  "The roar of my engine is the song of DOOM to my enemies" Turbo Cars are like hot women. A little edgy, every guy wants one, some guys can't handle them and if you throw a little alcohol in the mix they'll rock your world!! "Its not hard choosing between right and wrong,, the hard part is choosing the wrong that is more right"
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#18
12-13-2001, 05:54 PM
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11 Sec:
Excellent! It's great to hear from someone who wants to take the time and effort to go for the big HP naturally aspirated! Can you elaborate some more here about what it took to get that HP? We'd all like to know. Does the turbo tranny (and it's CV halfshafts) bolt right in place of the stock tranny? Are the bolt patterns the same?
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#19
12-13-2001, 08:49 PM
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hey well i started out with bolt ons. intake,exhaust i even had a header made for it cause no one makes an emissions legal one. then i got mild cams and a jasper ignition. i got the Tom's air scoop that feeds directly to the intake filter. i got underdrive pulleys and 95 supra TT injectors( any from that body style will fit) i then upgraded the fuel system and got high tension valve springs for the supra.they also dont make it for the mr2. then i got a four puck act clutch and heavy duty pressure plate. after that i was beating turbo mr2' s left and right.then i stopped for a while and then later decided to send the motor out and get the internals done(a.k.a expensive)
i sent the short block to paeco inc. and had them replace the stock pieces with thier high perf. peices. they over bored it 30 thousandths and put in their high compression pistons. their lightweight rods and their forged crank. they then balanced everything to racing specs and inserted their bearings. i let them install it cause it would then be warrantied. i got that back about 3 weeks after they got it. the head i sent out and had a 3 angle valve job done to hold in the 11.5:1 compression the new pistons bring and had it ported and polished. i went to g-force and got a custom ECU made with the new rev limiter set to the new red line of 8400 rpm and raised the govenor to 200mph. now the car wont ever do this but this way i definitly wont be surprised when im racing a viper and all of a sudden it stalls at 160. they also reworked the injector pulse and made it work with all the ignition electronics and pulled it all together. then got an aftermarket aluminum radiator and steelbraided hoses everywhere. these are the basics. there are a few other lil secrets that give a couple more horses. i hope this helps i ended up spending close to $8,000 on the motor alone. now to get the 11.76 i ran on nitto slicks with the interior gutted. on street tires and a full interior and two 30lb subs i run closer to a 12.25 due mostly to not getting the tires to hook up. and keeping the tires from sliding out from under you in second and third. but i love my car and i still get decent gas mileage like 18 on the highway. And the tranny bolts right up same pattern and everything.the stock CV joints will work just fine but i swapped them out for a set of thicker racing CVs from Driveshaftshop.com. just because i was worried about the stock ones. thanx for not calling me a liar right away because that is what i usually get on these chat rooms. if you get all the info and then dont belive me and choose to call me a liar after that then fine its your opinion. thank you for keeping an open mind.
__________________
--Ryan "The roar of my engine is the song of DOOM to my enemies" Turbo Cars are like hot women. A little edgy, every guy wants one, some guys can't handle them and if you throw a little alcohol in the mix they'll rock your world!! "Its not hard choosing between right and wrong,, the hard part is choosing the wrong that is more right"
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#20
12-13-2001, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
How did you do against the viper, surely it wasn't stock if it kept up with you to 160. :monkeypis 
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#21
12-13-2001, 10:00 PM
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and another
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#22
12-13-2001, 10:00 PM
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more non popups
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#23
12-13-2001, 10:01 PM
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and finally
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#26
12-14-2001, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
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#27
12-14-2001, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
well i would first get the engine balanced by a pro. and get it balanced to the littlest degree. then the stock valve springs dont have enough force on the valves to keep them moving at those speeds. the valves with float or not close all the way when you get to a certain rpm destroying all that compression and killing your power. i found that supra valves will work so i got aftermarket sets of those. and get a lightned flywheel. not a nessecity but the engine will rev really fast. thats the minimum you need. i also got a 3 angle valve job and forged crank and rods but just to lower rotational weight. Quote:
I havent had the chance i just used that as an example. I have just recently installed an aftermarket 200 mph speedo and i dont think its accurate. can any of you tell me, besides fly past a cop, on how to tell if my speedo is correct?
__________________
--Ryan "The roar of my engine is the song of DOOM to my enemies" Turbo Cars are like hot women. A little edgy, every guy wants one, some guys can't handle them and if you throw a little alcohol in the mix they'll rock your world!! "Its not hard choosing between right and wrong,, the hard part is choosing the wrong that is more right"
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#28
12-14-2001, 04:41 PM
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big long formula. There is an easy one out there, but you can do it this way:
Engine rpms/gear ratio/rear end ratio * total wheel circumference (in inches) This will give you inches per minute * 60 =inches per hour /5280 = miles per hour  (I think this will work)
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#29
12-14-2001, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
he has instructions on how to do that conversion on his site.
__________________
There is a method to my madness.
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#30
11-30-2003, 05:47 PM
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Re: Just bought an MR2, what should i do first?
Quote:
Ummmm Bulsh1t. 3angle valve jobs are standerd valve jobs. There is nothing special about them, every car has one. Do you even know the engine code for your car?? Is it N/A? What kind of fuel are you running with that "Monster set up" ? How is it that you know your crank HP? Do you use that # to make it sound more than it is because you loose about 15% thru the drivetrain?
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