In Progress - Tamiya Ducati Desmosedici

[MPWR]

Ooo, another cool project started. Good to the the STi isn't keeping you down.

Looks like it will be a terrrific build- nice pile of PE you've amassed there! I've been avoiding 1/12 bikes for years now- I don't need another genre of kits to start aquiring! Looking at this is not helping....

I suspect that in 1/12, a PE front disc would be too thin for scale- often PE is too thin for 1/24. Let's see some pics of this disc you're trying to replace.

[mickbench]

I’ve now sanded all the parts I’ve assembled and filled last night. Took a while, but I want it to be right, as you can’t fix it once top coat is applied. So spend the time now, and it “should” be OK.



And I’ve made a start in assembling the exhaust systems. You certainly get a few parts with bike kits. The exhaust is made up of 8 separate pieces. The CM P/E set I got has replacement exhaust holds for under the rear cowling, but I’ll be honest, I didn’t like the look of them. The CM P/E is quite thick P/E, but I just didn’t feel it would be substantial enough. Maybe it would be once glued together, but I decided to NOT cut the kit holds off, and leave them well alone.



And exhausts assembled, and filled. Then sanded and I’ve applied some liquid surface primer over them to check for problems. I’ve also assembled the front brake calipers, and the front box, whatever it is…



I’m posting up plenty of pictures, as this is my first bike, and so if someone spots a mistake, let me know. I’m not a lazy model builder, but I’m a bit clueless at times. LOL



MPWR, I’ve decided after reading what you wrote to not get the P/E front discs, as I think this is why CM decided not to include this with the set, or he either didn’t to keep the cost down. But his P/E fret is actually a little thicker then say acu stion. It is nice P/E, and his decals look good as well. Time will tell, if I get that far. LOL

[bvia]

Originally Posted by mickbench

Been busy working on the bike body panels. The kit guide says TS 49, and then XF1 flat black inside.

And thanks for the toothpick tip for the nuts. I’ll do that, as I was thinking perhaps blu tac..

got this one on the bench as well. Of course you know the XF-1 is really CF. I'll be spraying the internal body panels with X-18 (acrylic semi-gloss black) after I shoot and finish the outer panels with TS 49.

and I'll be using stretched sprue threaded into the nuts to keep the paint out. Same as toothpicks!

Keep going and thanks for sharing!
Bill

[mickbench]

Funny you should mention that the XF1 is actually CF. I was thinking perhaps this is meant to be CF, as the whole bikes body cowling would be fabricated from CF.

How are you planning to mask off the panels to spray X18 over them, as I looked it the panels from all angles, and it looks a PITA to spray them, so I’m just planning on using a good flat brush to brush paint them. It’s not like they’d be well seen – is it? Enamel paint mixed with a little lacquer thinner to give it some tooth can be brush painted fairly smooth.

Tell you something else, it’s thirsty with primer as well, as with a car you have a single large surface, with this you have many parts and they are a little larger, such as the engine is bigger then a car – scale difference obviously, but I’ve used more primer then I usually use on this already, and I’m not done yet.

[bvia]

Originally Posted by mickbench

Funny you should mention that the XF1 is actually CF. I was thinking perhaps this is meant to be CF, as the whole bikes body cowling would be fabricated from CF.

How are you planning to mask off the panels to spray X18 over them, as I looked it the panels from all angles, and it looks a PITA to spray them, so I’m just planning on using a good flat brush to brush paint them. It’s not like they’d be well seen – is it? Enamel paint mixed with a little lacquer thinner to give it some tooth can be brush painted fairly smooth.

Tell you something else, it’s thirsty with primer as well, as with a car you have a single large surface, with this you have many parts and they are a little larger, such as the engine is bigger then a car – scale difference obviously, but I’ve used more primer then I usually use on this already, and I’m not done yet.

Yup. the entire outside (and most of the inside besides the actual fuel tank and engine) are CF.

I'm going to do my usual...i.e. I use no primer (the TS sprays bond better with no primer) and paint and decal the entire surface, clear coar and polish and then simply spray the insides of the body panels with X-18. Easily cleaned up with alcohol.

I will probably not use ANY primer!!!

Bill

[sjelic]

Here are some images of the CF on the bike, I was looking at the bike and I can say that the patern is very rough (on the inside of fairings) and doesn't look nice at all. It is on some places (and some bike models) reinforced with yellow patern (only the uper cowl) but I have seen this only on 2003 version bikes and early 2004.
other than that two paterns are used all over the bike, regular wave patern on airbox, foot pegs, little parts like chain guard etc. Rough patern (new SMS type) should be on the air intake horn.
Rear mudguard is the most complicated one because it is very shiny and has rather small patern (mostly like S27 one but almost black).

[mickbench]

Thanks for the pictures, judging from those, flat black would be completely wrong, but what an expensive model it would be to place CF decals behind all the cowling. Anyone done this before?

And I’ve only got 1/24 twirl weave black, and 1/20 twirl weave black, I’ve not got any high tech CF decals. Is it really that important? This model is starting to really rack up in cost.

And I’ve always primed nearly all my models, and I’ve found TS paints work great with primer, so interesting to hear someone say they never use primer for TS paints.

Also, I’m planning to spray TS-49 red, decal and then spray X22 acrylic clear and hopefully not have to buff out too much, other then a compound and wax. If I get X18 acrylic overspray on the clear, it won’t come off, this is why I’d planned to brush paint the XF1.

[Raikkobin]

I did the airbox assembly, cowling inners and other various pieces with scale motorsports cf decal. I used a combination of 1/20th and 1/12th for the parts and brush painted humbrol clear over them to give the imperfect epoxy impregnated look. I really wish I had known about the Marlboro decals and detail sets but I'll have to save it for the next Desmo!!! The cf decals really add a visual impact to the kit built that I really wouldn't do without..
Also as a note, I painted mine with decanted TS-49, polished and decalled and did not apply a clear but only wax over top. Most of these bikes have all of the logos digitally printed on vinyl then applied to the bike giving them a semi bordering on gloss finish. Under a coat of wax they look just right to me. Here's some pics. Sorry about the quality!!!

[mickbench]

Raikkobin

Damn you.. LOL. Now I need to get some SMS high tech decals (was it high tech decals you used?), and I love the idea of putting CF decals in some of the cowling. That looks really good. I like it a lot. I’ve no problem with applying decals if they make the build look better for it, but SMS CF decals are expensive, so I don’t want to CF decal something you can’t see. But you can see it on your build, it makes a difference. Top stuff… Hope I get mine looking as good.

I’ll still perhaps clear the decals though, as they contain a lot of white, and hopefully using clear, and then storing on a good Tamiya case, they won’t yellow over time.

[Raikkobin]

Ya, they stand out alot more than you would think, even with the fairings on. The only one that was dissapointing was the airbox as it took the longest and is the most hidden, still there are spots where the airbox pokes through so do the whole thing anyways! The sms cf decal is not the high definition stuff. Still very nice though...

I keep all my kits in a glass case and I try to keep them so they get the occasional bit of sunlight. It helps prolong the yellowing inevitability!!

[bvia]

Originally Posted by mickbench

And I’ve always primed nearly all my models, and I’ve found TS paints work great with primer, so interesting to hear someone say they never use primer for TS paints.

Tamiya primers work great when I need them (changing underlying colors or to help level out bodywork modifications), but I had a chat with David Dusrt (SRC fame) and he discussed that when sprayed diectly onto plastic, he observed that the TS sprays actually melded to the plastic and when sliced open (cross-section wise) you could actually see that the paint had been absorbed into the styrene. I'm guessing the thinner used in the TS paint actually melt the pigments into the plastic's surface. This assures that there will be no lifting of the paint from the surface when masking AND saves the expensive Tamiya primer for when it's really needed.

hth,
Bill

[Raikkobin]

I've had the luck to have a proffesional paint and bodyman as a good friend and he's taught me the many in's and out's of good body and paint preparation on full size cars. You would be absolutely amazed at how similar models are in comparison to real cars....Primer is essential to see even the most minute of mistakes. However some people can just spot them without primer, they are lucky because 9 out of 10 times I can't!!! Primer is my friend and confidant!!!

[mickbench]

I used to work in an auto repair shop that did a lot of high class body work. They never skipped a single stage of body panel repair. Etch primer, grey primer, cutting back, and then base, followed by whatever top coats and lacquers required.

Anyhow, I’m not looking to turn my WIP into a pros and cons of why and why you shouldn’t prime, to me it is as essential as me breathing when I work, as I can’t see shit without a coat of grey primer.

I’ve now primed the body cowling etc. Found a few faults that I wasn’t overly happy with, so filled and sanded again.





I then followed this up with a few light coats of white primer. I didn’t get too much red plastic bleed, laid the primer a little too thick around the front nose cowling, but it’s not that bad, and will be fine.



I’ve started to build the P/E stand I got from hiroboy.com. The P/E used by CM is VERY thick for this, and I had one hell of a time bending it. In the end, I broke the thing into sections, and made some L shaped brackets. I then bent it into shape, and glued the L brackets to one halve of the stand from the back and then joined them back up all bent into the right shape. Turned out nice, and seems very strong. Bent using Tamiya P/E bending pliers, they are OK, but for this they didn’t really cut it too well. To intricate. Also the CM P/E stand doesn’t give new wheels or plastic stand hold. You need to use the kit parts, but that’s OK, as the CM stand is a WHOLE lot cheaper then the Tamiya counterpart.



Body cowling and frame etc have had 2 mists, one slightly heavy and then a single wet coat of TS-49 applied. I’m going to sand with 2400 to just cut the slight texture out, and then apply a final coat of TS-49. Pictures make it look a little orange, it’s not it is pure bright red. Nice colour.



As the paint is curing off, ready for final cutting back and wet coat, I’ve decided to build the P/E chain. The chains is made up of over a hundred P/E parts. It’s a nightmare to build, I was really confused at first. Then it dawned on me how to build the thing. You basically stick the two chain shapes into one, with the flat sides pointing outwards, and then attached bolts, nuts and links to the outer face. Slowly, with toothpicks, C/A glue, Tamiya diamond file, and P/E cutters I’ve managed to get this far. Its not going to win awards, but it looks functional, and pretty real, as it has the look of a chain if nothing else, and is an improvement on the kit supplied chain. I’m sorry for the poor picture, my camera is about buggered, and it doesn’t focus too well anymore. Also, I’m pleased you get a few spare P/E parts, as I’ve had a few go pinging around the room so far. LOL



I also sanded the whole chain with 400, then 600 grit paper to take the shine off. I’ll then wash and rub a little granite into it, and it should look pretty realistic.



That’s all for now.

[Raikkobin]

Holy bagoly....looking good!!!

[mickbench]

Another update, I’m unable to put this model down tonight. I just seem to be in the zone at the moment. LOL

I’ve now completed the swing arm. It is basically sprayed with semi gloss black, then detail painted a mix of X10 + X31 for the arm adjuster bolts (or whatever they are).

I’ve applied CM bolt heads to some parts of the arm, and also applied the CM P/E set arm brackets. Again you’re meant to bend them into shape, and then clip onto the swing arm. It didn’t quite work out like that. I opted to break them into two parts, and this gave me some room to work with.

I’ve also got the chain built on one side, still needs work. But no looking too bad. And I’ve also assembled the rear brake disc using P/E parts. I sanded using various grades of sand paper to change the colour of the metal, and give a slightly used look.