about the 1g cam sensor?

[Talon69]

Sorry but in think i am confusing you, hell im confusing myself lol. Anyways i am going to keep my 2g crank sensor in the car and just going to use the 1g cam sensor for cam signal. You explain on wiring but it sounds to me your explaing wiring for the crank sensor. On the RRE website it does not show how to just wire cam sensor. But what you explain is just one wire for crank so i just do nothing with that wire? And it does not show which all 3 wires goto what color on the plug, it only shows 2?

Thanx again, this is driving me nuts!!!!

[kjewer1]

I'm not confused at all. It's all in my previous posts. Power, ground, cam signal. Both stock connectors (for crank and cam) have power and ground. Doesn't matter which ones you use. Use the set for the cam sensor obviously. And the cam signal line. Obviously you don't connect the crank signal output from the 1g sensor, you are using the stock 2g crank sensor. It's a lot simpler than it may seem.

[Talon69]

I have been thinking about this the last few days. Whats the big advantage of keeping the crankshaft sensor? Besides that you do not need to time the vehicle. Is there any other big issue? The reason i am asking is because in my town the sensor is $75!!! If the 1g cam sensor does the same thing but need ta timing light why not do that? Im sure there is no performance issues here on which way i go is there?

So everyone that swaps out the 7 bolt for a 6bolt you need to time the vehicle? Its not really that hard to get it timed correctly with a timing light is it? I have done 350 chevy it must be the same principle. But your turning the cam sensor instead of a distrbutor.

Thanx Eric

[kjewer1]

Keeping the crank sensor negates the need for DSMlink to avoid random misfire CEL and limpmode. A worthy cause IMO if you are running a 7 bolt block. Some poeple have figured out how to use hyundai parts to run a crank sensor on the 6 bolts too, but I don't have the specifics on this. If you have DSMlink already just run the 1g CAS for both signals.

Your comment about timing the motor is correct. There is a mark on the crank pulley, graduations on the timing belt cover, and you turn the CAS to adjust. If you are using a crank sensor the timing is fixed. You can put the timing light pickup on sparkplug wire 1 or 4, both are fired at the same time.

[Talon69]

Ok cool thanx alot, i do have dsmlink, i got it about 2 months ago now and the computer is still sitting in my dresser lol. So i will just run the 1g cas for both, thanx alot man i need to save money anyway i can lol i have spent way more than i planned allready. I took a 2k loan out and still have spent $1500 lol

[95_GSX]

I have been trying to follw Method 1 from RRE's website on how to wire the CAS for both crank and cam signal. If someone could identify what parts these two numbers(NTE7404 and NTE977) refer to I would appreciate it. Help as fast as possible is appreciated because I am working on it right now, and I have to be to work monday. thanks

P.S. I thought NTE7404 was the part of the ecu harness but the numbering systems arent consisent. thanks again.

[Talon69]

Originally Posted by 95_GSX

I have been trying to follw Method 1 from RRE's website on how to wire the CAS for both crank and cam signal. If someone could identify what parts these two numbers(NTE7404 and NTE977) refer to I would appreciate it. Help as fast as possible is appreciated because I am working on it right now, and I have to be to work monday. thanks

P.S. I thought NTE7404 was the part of the ecu harness but the numbering systems arent consisent. thanks again.

Sry man i cannot help you out on them numbers, i wish i could. I did method 2 and finished it today, changed coil wires around, changed injector wires around in ecu harness and made a new harness to run both signals off the 1g CAS.

Why you want method 1 when method 2 is so much easier? JUst curious

[95_GSX]

I guess I am just going to change to method 2. I don't think I have any questions about it. I just like the fact that with method one you didn't have to mess with the ingnition at all. oh well. I would appreciate it if you would check back later tonight incase I have any questions. Thanks.

[95_GSX]

I am about done with my swap, but I have been wondering, what does everyone do with there MAP sensor from the 2G stock manifold. my 1G manifold doesnt have anywhere for a MAP, and i never read where i needed to go and have it machined in. what has everyone else done? thanks.

[kjewer1]

IF you have DSMlink, you don't need to run the MAP sensor. If you do, just put a 3/16th hose on it and give it a manifold pressure source. The P port on the 1g TB for example.

[Talon69]

Here is a picture of one from dsmtuners.

http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/attac...3&d=1087781655

[Talon69]

Originally Posted by 95 GSXracer

IF you have DSMlink, you don't need to run the MAP sensor. If you do, just put a 3/16th hose on it and give it a manifold pressure source. The P port on the 1g TB for example.

So since i have dsmlink, is there a setting in the program i have to do if i do not hook the MAP up? And will my check engine light still be on?

[kjewer1]

Go to the ECU menu, DTCs, and uncheck the appropriate box. I believe it will say EGR. The MAP sensor's only purpose in life is to tell the ECU if the EGR is working or not. Unfortunately I don't have DSMlink in front of me to verify that's what the applicable checkbox is called.

[95_GSX]

I blocked off my EGR, but I dont have DSMlink, so do I still need to run the MAP? Thanks.

[kjewer1]

You might still have to at leave it connected so the ECU doesn't throw a CEL. Just plumb it up to that P port and leave it sitting on the IM somewhere.