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#16
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Heheh - I know what you are insinuating and you're on the wrong track Q
![]() Thermostat might be the problem - could be jammed open. You think you have problems: Cost of Spoon strut brace: 120 bucks. Cost of getting my A/C line rebuilt so the brace can be installed (the AC line is exactly where the brace mount needs to be for those that don't know) is 350 bucks ...as I have the old gas in my Aircon and will need the filter unit etc replaced ![]() I'm going to unbolt the line from the firewall and see if I can ziplock it to the brace. Fingers crossed
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#17
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I think 'Neuspeed' make a solid one piece unit.. not too sure though. If you can possibly avoid it, don't open the a/c system up, as then you will lose the R-12 forever, and trust me its much better than the R-134a they will replace it with, not to mention a whole heap of other possible complications including technician incompetence. (enough about that though) Otherwise try bending it out of the way without damaging any of the joins, but yeah if you can avoid it don't get the gas replaced, my system had a leak and it got 'professionaly' repaired (butchered) and R-134a was put in there, its not as good is the CFC even if they tell you its the same or better.. it ISN'T!!... |
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#18
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For a ED/Aussie GL, the towers will clear 0 but that's 'cause the D15/D16 sits lower in the engine bay and doesn't take up all the room that the factory B16A does. The mounts have to be where they are so that the brace clears the intake while clearing the bonnet as well unfortunately. I tried a brace designed for the non-B16A 4G civic and CRX - it is blocked by the manifold/idle control (even the one for the ZC powered CRX has the same issues.
Air-con has to be regassed soon anyway so I don't mind it - just the cost of the retro kit. I'll take it to the place that did my GL - damn professional (but it's a air-con shop, not an auto-electrician). In the meantime - going to try the dismount from the firewall idea
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#19
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yeah I have read about strut braces not being able to clear the B16A
You proabaly already know this, but don't leave the system 'open' for too long, the oil will absorb moisture and cause all sorts of headaches later on, also if it still has gas in it, i'm sure you could get it recovered from the syetm for cheap, instead of giving yourself and the environment a nasty surprise when you undo the pipe from the firewall. Also I did get mine done at a 'Refrigeration Specialist' they had a decent shop etc, but they went in there with all guns blazing, scratching up the engine bay around the compressor, scraping the radiator etc, severely overtightening the belts and breaking plastic clips etc, which I have now replaced. But if you know the place and they do a good job thats really good, its hard to find a competent professional these days, thats why I like to do almost everything myself. |
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#20
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Nah - I'm just unbolting the pipe bracket from the firewall to shift it out the way, not disconnecting the system (sorry, was I that vague?
). If that works then all is good. If not then I'll have to get it re-routed by the shop.Quote:
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#21
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Did I mention that I had a passenger in the Civic... and am down about 8 KW on what the car should be producing...
Oh come ON!!!! Im sure my ego was much heavier than oz...
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JDM IS NOT LHD My other car's a Porsche, but today I'm in a hurry. |
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#22
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![]() I still have a electrical short somewhere
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There's a chick driving that thing ![]() www.performanceforums.com |
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#23
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However... I live in a different country, and i got a full body kit. Also later on I got new badges and stuff, and have found no probs watsoeva!! Jst me tho...
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TOYVTI HI YAH VTEC! Forma JDM Integra SiR =) Forma JDM Mitsi Galant VR-4 98' Spec |
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#24
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Quote:
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There's a chick driving that thing ![]() www.performanceforums.com |
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#25
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I keep on chuckling over them wanting 50 bucks for a "carbon fibre" H badge
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#26
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Quote:
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There's a chick driving that thing ![]() www.performanceforums.com |
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