Drying time for Tamiya TS30 silver leaf

[drunken monkey]

i've just sprayed a model in TS-17 and done my usual straight TS-13 coat on top of the last wet colour coat. Not sure if it's because I seemed to have layed on the Clear too thickly but it looks like some of the pigment is seeping into the clear layer. Can't say this has happened before with my mica paints.
i'll get some pics up in the morning.

and now for a relevant question.
can you sand TS-17 to a shine or at all?
i was sanding to smooth out the body before the final coat and noticed that it just seemed to go dull. If you can't sand it, does that mean you need a perfect paint job before clearing?

[RallyRaider]

Yes that seeping of the colour/metallic coat underneath is one of the reasons I clear before decals. TS-13 is hot stuff and really bonds well with the surface underneath. Thinner coats will minimise this effect.

I wouldn't recommend sanding metallics like TS-17 too much, unless you want a worn, uneven looking surface. Rather clear it and sand/polish the clear. A perfect finish is allways a good place to start. If there are major problems sand the metallic, paint it again, then clear it straight away.

[The Sheene Machine]

Originally Posted by drunken monkey

i've just sprayed a model in TS-17 and done my usual straight TS-13 coat on top of the last wet colour coat. Not sure if it's because I seemed to have layed on the Clear too thickly but it looks like some of the pigment is seeping into the clear layer. Can't say this has happened before with my mica paints.
i'll get some pics up in the morning.

and now for a relevant question.
can you sand TS-17 to a shine or at all?
i was sanding to smooth out the body before the final coat and noticed that it just seemed to go dull. If you can't sand it, does that mean you need a perfect paint job before clearing?

I'm sorry to hear that. Here's what happened to my Gordon car last year TS13 over Mica silver.. - it really set my confidence back some way.....



You should just make out some splinters in the TS13 - these are all over the paint finish.

Looked real good before disaster struck.....

[drunken monkey]

i asked about the polishing of the TS17 cos there isn't that warning sticker that you find on the other metallics/mica paints about using TS 13 on top first.

anyway.
here's my paint seeping.
it's not too bad in the photo but in life, it's quite apparent.
funny thing is, i just put on a nother coat of clear and that seems to have "fixed" some of the lighter patches. Must be something to do with the light....

[Scale-Master]

That is the problem (on the Porsche) I was referring to as "separating".
I have been able to avoid that with the TS17 by very lightly building up the clear in many, many light coats, never saturating it. That way it dries before it can permeate into the color. The down side is I often would have to polish the clear to remove a fine orange peel, or wait a month or two and put a another set of wetter coats on using the earlier ones as a barrier. Still, not a time to flood coat or the paint could attack itself and make wrinkles, bad scene...

The splintering (on the Monte Carlo) is a different problem. I have seen that happen for years. It is usually due to a situation where the color and the clear are curing at different rates due to either incompatibility, or different stages of their curing span, and the paint is fractured. It often continues for months, even years.
That is another of the reasons I prefer to shoot the Tamiya clear in the same session as the Tamiya color and let them cure together.

Trying to polish or color sand silver or gold, does not work well at all. Too much metallic, not enough pigment. That's why the mica colors can often be polished, more pigment... - Mark

[drunken monkey]

i am beginning to understand why some people hate the thought of painting with TS17....
just put another clear coat on and once again, it started to separate pigment even though there is already a decent clear coat underneath.
the result:




as it stands, the worst parts are on the roof and on the bonnet lid so it's probably fixable, it being easy to mask+re-paint these sections.

[KTem]

That's weird. I used TS17 and TS13 on my second and third models; back then I really didn't know how to clear coat, so I just layed down one very wet, thick coat on the car bodies. Nothing happened, no reaction, and the clear coat didn't burn through the paint at all! That has led me to think that TS17 is very resilient and easy to paint with, but seeing all these problems, I guess that's not the case.

[The Sheene Machine]

Personally I'd wet sand that back and reshoot the TS17.

...Which is what i did with my Pug 206 yesterday - wet sanded the TS30, added two coats and then did two mist coats of TS13 with airbrush and 30 mins later two wet coats of TS13 from the can.

Here's how mine turned out...



TS30 does darken under lacquer - so if you want more brighter silver go for the Mica..it should look good after polishing.



Now we wait to see what happens...

[Some_Kid]

from my experience ts-17 sux, but im sure if you are careful enough with it then it can look great, in my opinion ts-30 looks best on engine parts, like manifolds and such. i find that enamels have the best metallic colors, testors has some very good ones