egr valve ? 94 full size

[starfiresx]

Well get this. I got tired of working on my truck. I take it to the Pros ( I thought ) the dealer. and they call me back and say the tech pulled off the vacuum line from the egr valve and plugged the tbi port and it runs much better. and tell me that I should change the plugs they look all sootie. and I should also leave off the vacuum line to the egr.

I am confused. I did this before I took it to them and it did some times run a little better, but still ended up with my stumble and hesitation. and also the SES light did come on.

I did change the plugs about a week before taking it to them.
as I stated in a earlier post my static compression is high @ 180 psi across the board. seems I have some build up in the chambers and piston tops. I believe this is causing my problem? Hot spots / pre ignition. also I had a 180 thermostat in the truck. I replaced with the factory spec 195. how or what is a good way to try to loosen this stuff up. cane I run a higher octane gas to help burn some of this off.

thanks Joe

[self-made-mechanic]

Well.....

This weekend I did replace the wires, cap and rotor. As blow-by was getting past the rocker cover grommets, I pulled the covers and replaced the rocker gaskets and grommets. I also replaced the PCV valve and vacuum hose .

Guess what? I've still got low throttle hesitation! NO change whatsoever.
Coffee spilled this morning due to the GD hesitation! I will be taking the truck to the "EXperts" and let you know if they fix the problem, WITHOUT disconnecting stuff thats supposed to work!

[horse482]

Have you guys checked the distributor for play. If there is side to side play in the distributor then it will cause problems like this, I know because my '94 did the same thing. I replaced my distributor with a new GM distributor and it fixed the problem, no more low rpm stumble. Pull the cap and the rotor and wiggle the distributor shaft to see if there is side to side play, if so then you need to replace the distributor bushings and shaft or the whole distributor.

[CaptainZoom]

So many answers but no go? Could it be so easy as the CTS-Sensor ,
or mayhap You already replaced that? It was the culprit on my CK...

Symptoms was:
Running fine when cold, but as soon as reached operating temp, it got all powerless and started to flutter and choke when accelerating.
No problems with driving it gently (or at least it didn't die)
If I slowly accelerated, it came alright. But if I kicked down or tried to climb a steep hill, it would choke and almost die.
-Still kept the idle though.

CTS-Sensor, It will set You back approx. 10 bucks , and its replaced in 10 minutes.
Located all alone right behind the generator. A little fellow with a cable connected to it. (The only one with 2 pins), straight down into the manifold. (From above it looks like a 5/8-nut with a thin cable.)
Tell us how it goes!
CaptainZoom

[starfiresx]

Well, mine has come to an end. and a good one at that!

the other day (Friday) it was raining here in the Detroit area. and we were up for some snow over night. and I need my truck for plowing the powder.

9:30 PM I started the truck up and put the rear plow on and spun it around to place the front plow on. I noticed that in gear I could here some arcing coming from under the hood. put it back in park and nothing. so I got my wife to come out and hold the brake and put it in gear. I could hear it agine but not see anything. so I used my finger and found the arcing coming from the no ! plug wire. under where I could not see it. with all the moisture in the air it acting up more than normal. it was arcing out from the where the wire goes into the boot.

funny thing is, is that I ran a test on all the wires and thought that they where all good. they are only just over a year old. and where not the cheapest set on the shelf.

at an idle the truck would not miss a beat. but under load is where the wire would ark.

I even took the truck to the dealer to have them find out what was the problem. and for $89.00 all I got was a screw in the egr vacuum line and that I should change the plugs. or leave it and well will have the engine tech pull your engine apart to see what the problem is.

so after I found the wire to be faulty, I took the truck back to the dealer and talked with the service manager and I got my money back.

Joe

[juniorcarp]

This seems to be a common probelm i had the same issues the stumbling the hesistation and a buddy from work had the same probelm we both took our trucks to different mechanics and both did different things my mechanic checked everything fuel injectors and plugs everything he spent 5 hours on it he ended up changing the fuel filter the air filter and cleaned the throttle body it ran better he told me that the plugs i recently put in it ....the bosch 4 prong plugs are no good in these trucks the trucks just hate em he recommened delco plugs well i took the truck home with the bosch plugs and it ran good but still stalled in the early morning only when i put it into reverse so changed the plugs and low and behold it stopped stalling and know runs good. My buddy was having hesistation and that was it unlike mine which was stalling and backfiring out the carb so his mechanic took a screw and put it in the top of the egr valve and it stopped hesistating but his ses light is on ....... this is a very common probelm and there seems like there are a hundred solurtions to the probelm

[bansheetaz]

usually a new egr solenoid and egr valve would solve that problem. i usto sell them both at the same time when i was workin on them. id havto drive the vehicle to tell exactly whats going on though

[Elbert]

Originally Posted by self-made-mechanic

Just subscribed to this forum. Seems that I've got the same hesitation in my 1993 K1500 5.7 liter. Problem NOT solved by (1) new EGR (2) new O2 (3) new plugs (4) new fuel and air filter. I will be replacing the wires and cap/rotor this weekend.
Suggestions from this forum mention the following:
- fuel pressure regulator
- mass airflow sensor
- cleaning throttle body
- leak in intake manifold
- fuel pump
- knock sensor

I did buy a fuel pump but not looking forward in dropping the tank.

The symptoms of hesitation occur after warm-up, @ 1500 RPM and light pressure on the gas pedal ( I have a 5-speed manual), and runs better under more throttle, higher RPM. Gas milage has declined. Will keep posted.

swap out the EGR solonoid and replace the vaccum lines to and from the EGR solonoid. I did this on my 92 and my EGR problems went away. I first replaced the EGR valve with no change. Those plastic vaccume lines are crap and they will leak under application and its very hard to figure out. When I replaced the EGR solonoid i removed the two plastic lines and they came apart in about three pieces, and I was not being rough with them at all.
Went down to the store , bought about 3 feet of each common vaccum line
and replaced those on my truck. No plastic vaccume lines = no problems for me. My truck would set code 32 about once or twice a month and I don't even drive the thing that often. My truck = 92 K1500 350 engine, auto trans.

[jveik]

i dont know if newer ones are different, but i think you can tell if its good still by shaking it and if it rattles like theres something loose inside, then its ok...

[Crasen]

I hope you are talking about shaking a pcv valve to see if it rattles and not an egr valve

[jocat54]

If you haven't changed the egr soleniod you might want to do it-when you change it be sure to put the vacum line on the right fitting-its pretty easy to put it on the vent outlet on the egr solenoid.

[jveik]

wow im an idiot lol... got my shit mixed up... yeah that would be the pcv valve, not the egr (shaking it)... i think i need to get more sleep at night lol