EGR Connecting Tube Mystery

[Stevo2]

Originally Posted by gm94

This is getting annoying... I pull out the air intake elbow, the egr valve, spark plugs and iddle controller. (again) i verified the gap for the plugs again. Checked that the plug cables are making good contact. I cleaned the idde controller with some air intake cleaner. I put a new gasket on the new egr valve. I put everything back together making sure that all bolts were tight enough. I also replaced the fuel filter.

I started my car and its even worse. Now the iddle is bad. It hesitates all the time. At night the headlights and dome lights pulsate. If i put it in gear gets even worse.

The only things that i have left to try is get a new iddle controller, throttle position sensor and the egr solenoid that you mention. I'm running out ideas. I'm very frustrated because it doesn't make any sense.

I still thing this is something electrical but i don't know what to think any more. I will have to use my last option... take it to a mechanic. LOL

Can you think of anything else?

Some Idle Air Bypass Valves cannot be cleaned and if you do...they dont work any more. Try replacing the valve and make sure the ports under it are clean.

[cobradude360]

check for vacum leaks around the things you replaced have you replaced the dpfe also check engine light on?

[Marco Sr.]

Just a quick little tip here, If you are suspicious of a possible vacume leak then you can use WD40 or even Starting fluid (although I prefer the WD40 because it's less volitile) with the engine running and the extension tube on the can of WD attached spray a small amount in the area that is suspect and if the engine raises in idle or smothens out then you have a vacume leak there.

The reason this works is that the fluid briefly fills the gap where the vacume leak is, and you won't always hear a vacume leak but this method is about the easiest and least expensive way to find a possible leak.

Marco Sr.