3.2 engine seized

[94twacker]

get the lower mile motor and have the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump replaced before its put in. Id also do a full tune up, thermostat, plugs, wires, probably change the intake manifold gasket because I know they are common on these.

[nykolos]

Not too long ago, I had the same exact problem with my 3.2 DOHC, 5 quarts gone! and a spun rod bearing to go with it. I dont doubt you checked your oil frequently, but the bottom line is, you didnt check it often enough, I think Gizmo42 described it best where the oil went, these engines have a well known oil consumption problem, not to mention a inadequate oil pump that only puts out 10 lbs of pressure @ 500rpm!.

I rebuilt my 2000 3.2 DOHC twice! 2 cranks and 100+ hrs later, it now runs like a dream. The best advice I can give to owners, is to check there oil EVERY time they put gas in there tank, and use a higher viscosity oil like 10/40, higher viscosity = higher oil pressure.

So which repair route do you take? If your planning on keeping the car, DONT replace the motor with a used one, your just asking for more trouble and you'll be out $2000, I would have your existing motor completely rebuilt, is the quote of $3000 USD for a complete overhaul? if so, that's cheap!, just make sure whoever does it, has worked on these engines before and does it right! Parts alone with a reground crank will cost at least $1200 USD, I'm including a new oil and water pump. Any machine or head work would be extra, removing the motor and re-installing should be another $1000, so the shop is only making $800 for the rebuilding, and he has to warranty it.

Your other option is to sell the car AS IS and take the loss, it's really your call, I hope this helps........Good luck!

Nick

Originally Posted by tnt3

Just want to let you Rodeo owners know to check your oil. I have a 1998 Rodeo and did oil change a 88000km. I do mine every 5000km so at 92000km I was not worried about the oil. the Rodeo used about 1 litre every 5000km so I still had 10000km to g be fore my oil was to to be changed. Well I was wrong. the engine consumed all 5litres of oil in 4000km. Has any one seen this before. Is there anyway I can make GM pay for the dammage. I have never heard of a vehicle consuming the entire 5ltrs of oil. What can I do. I mean you would never expect that a vehicle would run out of oil. I could see if the vehicle leaked(which mine does not) or smoked(which mine did not) there was no indication that the truck was running out of oil. The oil light did not come on the engine light did not come on. What can I do? thatnks for your input. Tom

[rodeo02]

nykolos, isn't the #1 & #2 connecting rod bearings the FIRST to get oil from the oil pump? They are the closest to the oil pump correct? I have not torn down a 3.2/3.5L. Just trying to figure why the 1 & 2 tend to go first. I too have considered going with a 40wt oil long term (have experimented with 5w-20 thru 15w-40), but am concerned with cold temp startup & making my MPG worse. Did you not have 10/120 warranty on your 2000?

G/luck
Joel

[Canucklehead]

Originally Posted by rodeo02

nykolos, isn't the #1 & #2 connecting rod bearings the FIRST to get oil from the oil pump? They are the closest to the oil pump correct? I have not torn down a 3.2/3.5L. Just trying to figure why the 1 & 2 tend to go first. I too have considered going with a 40wt oil long term (have experimented with 5w-20 thru 15w-40), but am concerned with cold temp startup & making my MPG worse. Did you not have 10/120 warranty on your 2000?

G/luck
Joel

Joel, I have been running M1 5W40 since the summer and haven't noticed any drop in mpg due to the oil. I still get 17-18 mpg.

[Ramblin Fever]

You know all this oil viscosity stuff is SO confusing

Just when everyone has convinced me that 5w-30 is better to use versus my longtime 10w-30 or the 5w-40, then I find out opinions are changing

eeeeakkkk!

[deliaann]

Sorry to hear your misfortune... I bought my 96 Rodeo with about 45,000 miles on it, it was using oil and still under warranty. The dealer insisted that "they do that", some crap about foriegn vehicles do use oil. 6 years later, she still uses oil but the valve cover gasket is the culpret.. Hmmm no money and physically disabled hard to get that one handled, especially when the mind knows what to do the body won't cooperate... and what the ____ is sea foam. Good Blessings, Ann BRAINSTORM: I notice a neaprene hose coming from the oil pump right near the oil filter housing... how does that look?

[rodeo02]

You got that right Ramblin! I feel the same way. Too much BITOG I guess. Steve, good point on the M1 5w-40. Had not thought about that oil. Maybe a 40wt for spring/summer and a 30wt for fall/winter is ideal!?!? What scares me about a 40wt is you will increase pressure, but decrease flow. The happy medium for the 1998+ 3.2/3.5 is anyones guess.

Joel

[Ramblin Fever]

I will tell you one thing - in my playing with different viscosities, when you say that an increase in viscosity will decrease flow, but raise pressure.

I can attest to the 40wt definitely keeping your pressure up - mine says it stays at 75-85psi hot.

But yet, with the Havoline blend 5w-30, my hot pressure (winter time) is staying at 65-70psi, so it's not dropped a whole lot.

And my truck's engine is a bit quieter (having nothing to do with a ticking issue) with this Havoline blend 5w-30, then it was with even the regular Havoline 5w-30.

So I'm at a loss, really.

I'm stuck between choosing Rotella 5w-40 or Havoline Blend 10w-30 for summer.

Next winter, I'm pretty sure I'll stick to the 10w-30 blend as well, it actually has better cold weather properties then the 5w blend does.

If anyone can guess what to decide upon, keep me posted.

I will say that the spec's for the same engine in Australia calls for nothing less then a 40wt - as if that's supposed to help us decide

[Ramblin Fever]

Just thought something - what about a heavy 30wt that doesn't shear too fast? Rather then a 40wt.

Say half of a 10w-30 and a 15w-40?

Or a 10w-30 mixture with a 20w-50

I wouldn't want to mix a 5w-30 with a heavier viscosity though - too many viscosity improvers in that wide of a spread.

[directory]

you can mix oil viscosities?

[surferfletch]

My 3.2L has done fine with 10W-30 for 150K. I probably wouldn't sleep as well if I changed now, especially with the daughter putting most of the miles on it.

[Ramblin Fever]

Originally Posted by directory

you can mix oil viscosities?

Lots of people do - but I'm not one of them. Not fond of it at all, personally, just mentioned it as a lot of people do and have mixed for a long time without issue.

Yeah, I'm leaning towards the 10w-30 again, as for one, I can't find the 5w-30 Havoline blend, and I'm not thrilled with running it consistently for summer use in hard, hilly terrain driving.

[rodeo02]

Mixing wt's wont hurt a thing. Your engine wont even notice, it's just kinda pointless. Kinda related, but I used to mix 2qts of M1 10w-30 with 3qts of Mobil 'drive clean' 10w-30 to make my own "synthetic blend". Got bored with that too.

G/luck
Joel