|
|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Air Dried Fresh Beef Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
|||||||
![]() |
Show Printable Version |
Subscribe to this Thread
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
|
Alll you owners of a 1995, make a note that the rear oil cooler line is one more item that is a special "1995 only" part. (see Gabe's drawing.)
The Block-to-Filter lines on 1995-only are more difficult than any other year. GM added a steel-rod brace from the engine block to the transmission bellhousing to stiffen the assembly. In 1996 and newer, the aluminum oil pan provides the extra stiffness to the engine-trans connection. 1994 and earlier have a different assembly because the filter is up on the fender, and I don't think they have the brace rods. The oil line assembly is 2 lines crimped and braised together so they cannot be separated. The engine-to-trans brace passes between the 2 lines, so it must be removed before you can access the rear bolt on the oil lines. Best way to get at it is through driver-side wheel well with a shorty-9/16" wrench. Also note that you do Not have to jack up the motor on a 1995. There is plenty of room after the brace is removed. Last edited by herkyhawki; 01-20-2006 at 08:30 AM. |
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Need instructions for installing oil cooler lines
That pic should help. Car Quest stores sell the lines. You should remove the long bolt in the engine mount when jacking because you may separate the rubber on the mount otherwise and those are a real pain on a 4wd. The bolt head can be accessed from the bottom with 2 long extensions and the nut can be held from behind the wheel lifting the flap. Jack if slowly and use a block of wood to protect the cast oil pan. After you finish check the torque on that oil filter line adaptor on the block - about 25 ft-lbs cause they often leak too - chevy sells an o-ring and gasket for $4. or so.
|
|
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|