97 Maxima Does not Start

[spatki1]

Originally Posted by Nahkapohjola

"...do i really need to change all TC related parts as..."
Camshaft Chain - 1 Nos ( Appx 60$)
Tentioner Chain- 1 Nos ( Appx 70$)
Chain Guide - 1 ( 25 $)
Camshaft Sprocket - None
Sproket Crank - None
All seals
--->Best scenario, U dont know what u dont know. U have to open the system, see... The problem at stealership usually is that they want to change every part that ha$ a scracth to boost revenue.


"...I dont know how to trust to buy engine from outside...labor..."
- Engine is engine, mine, yours. As we can read here, we cannot put our trust to 'my' engine. They do break...
- Work charge (in thousands) will be about the same in both cases?
- Worst case scenario (, all broken, bent valves) surpasses the used engine swap?

Only capable mechanic may say if valves bent after cam side has been opened. I have opened some handfuls, I would need to take heads off, valves out. Double the worktime, plus price for valve work, total 3k? Ask the mechanic this question and compare answers: which one gives best? 'Cheapest' mech might be most expensive, stealership price gouge is no warranty...

As said, after opening one may know. If sum seems to stand below 1k, repair. If it goes above, thinkabaout new engine. Whats left? Roll dice. (The Engine u buy -if- , should come with some kind warranty)

Edit: If valves are bent, its b/c they have hit the pistonds due to wrong timing (chain jump). When this happens, the valve hit leaves marks on piston top. No hit marks, dirty piston(s) = no bent valves. This can be viewed with a scope: plugs out, scope in to each cylinder. Maybe u can rent scope somewhere? Cheapest on net that I've found (me wannabe buyer) is here: http://www.uniqueproductsonline.com/opticscope.html ...Buy that one, then sell it t me at 50%. The cheaper one needs a led light.

.

Finally Mechanic suggested me to replace the engine as parts & labour will cost appx same as replacing engine. He told Maxima have Fiber gears whic goes bad along with timing chain & it hits the piston also.

I dont have choice now , i have to belive him & i told him to go ahead of Engine Replacement will cost mr too much. He will check prices for used Engine in Junk yards market & will tell me appx budge but atlest 1500-1600$ including labour. I dont know what they do with my orignal engine, they must be seelling in parts to ern more money. He told me Junk yards give 6 months gurantee for used Engines.
How to trust on Junkyard engine, anyway i cant buy new engine. Any good trusted source to get engine? Mechanic will not give gurantee if I will buy engine for him, he will charge labour & no gurantee of work...so i trust him that he himself will buy & install it...

Anyway Thanks a lot for all your feedback & suggestions for my problem , i really find it very helpful. God Bless you.

Thanks

SP

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by spatki1

...goes bad along with timing chain ...

Last time, long ago, I was jobless when engine blew in my audi. Then I bought a wreck, got engine... These testin times, but every soul will be tested one way or other. Thks for your thoughts, and may God bless u too, richly.

Hittin piston depends how many teeth the chain happen to jump. If only one chain jumps, only its sprokets may be ruined. I'd still first open the chain 'box', and also rent scope peek into cylinders to see if any problems. That should be 'one hour' job (just guess, ? I really dont know). Just to exclude the 500$ repair possibility... Then decide.

If u get another engine, do compression tst. Next, there are some o-rings u should demand (and see for u self) to be changed: axle seals, crank seals 5$ ea. Six mths warranty would be ok. Also check axle boots and replace if cracks found (as axles have to be taken out anyway).

edit: the old engine has some value, problem for u is storage (?) also that junkyard doesnt pay too much... If I had similar car with crank or piston/compression -problem, I'd gladly pay 300$ to build myself a good engine. I suppose the engine lower part, VTC & valve lifters etc are still ok. Put an ad somewhere, lets hope smbdy is in need and calls next week...

.

[Redypoo]

Let me ask you something.... you have about twenty threads about your car, did you ever think that your just screwed and it's time to get a new car.

[spatki1]

Originally Posted by Nahkapohjola

"...do i really need to change all TC related parts as..."
Camshaft Chain - 1 Nos ( Appx 60$)
Tentioner Chain- 1 Nos ( Appx 70$)
Chain Guide - 1 ( 25 $)
Camshaft Sprocket - None
Sproket Crank - None
All seals
--->Best scenario, U dont know what u dont know. U have to open the system, see... The problem at stealership usually is that they want to change every part that ha$ a scracth to boost revenue.


"...I dont know how to trust to buy engine from outside...labor..."
- Engine is engine, mine, yours. As we can read here, we cannot put our trust to 'my' engine. They do break...
- Work charge (in thousands) will be about the same in both cases?
- Worst case scenario (, all broken, bent valves) surpasses the used engine swap?

Only capable mechanic may say if valves bent after cam side has been opened. I have opened some handfuls, I would need to take heads off, valves out. Double the worktime, plus price for valve work, total 3k? Ask the mechanic this question and compare answers: which one gives best? 'Cheapest' mech might be most expensive, stealership price gouge is no warranty...

As said, after opening one may know. If sum seems to stand below 1k, repair. If it goes above, thinkabaout new engine. Whats left? Roll dice. (The Engine u buy -if- , should come with some kind warranty)

Edit: If valves are bent, its b/c they have hit the pistonds due to wrong timing (chain jump). When this happens, the valve hit leaves marks on piston top. No hit marks, dirty piston(s) = no bent valves. This can be viewed with a scope: plugs out, scope in to each cylinder. Maybe u can rent scope somewhere? Cheapest on net that I've found (me wannabe buyer) is here: http://www.uniqueproductsonline.com/opticscope.html ...Buy that one, then sell it t me at 50%. The cheaper one needs a led light.

.

Hi

Its time again to seek ur help. I had my Engine replaced by mechanic by used engine, insted of spending so much money to fix timing issue & again run into problems.

I spent appx 1600$ to replace the engine but now orignal problem still there, my car wont start smooth, as expained at beiginging of this thread, also got Service Engine soon light , Mechanic also could not found what exactly is the problem, he suspecting Mass Air flw sensor.

I went to Advanced Auto parts to get code for Check engine light , it shows 2 Oxygen Sensors & 1 Evap Control Valve. As told by mechanic i dont want to put 250$ for MAF sensor if its not having problem , if it could have problem it could have shown in Check Engine code if its faulty. & again it will not resolve the issue what should i do . I alredy have 2000$ spent on this car, i dont know when it will stop.

Now with used engine i feel some Vibration when car is at ideal condition & when it speeds up at 50-60 MPH RPM remains at 2200-2500, is that so high? It does not drop ... dont know if its normal or not but my orignal engine drops to 1000-1500 on 60 MPH..

Pl let me know why its hard to start , as i saw lot of threds for cold engine start, ... does maximas having this common problems... is there any standard solution ??

Thanks

SP

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by spatki1

... is there any standard solution ??...

$.$$ per mile:
- free miles is fantasy; compare to a new car
- after all worn parts have been renewed, dont sell. If u sell, do not renew all worn parts: Have a 4 yr plan, stick to it. Every 60k miles there are major costs waiting, every vehicle...
- some vehicles are problem nests; nissan typically is troublefree
- the older the car, the better is basic 4cyl no-frills -model
- money drain on car stops only when u sell it, buy bicycle. Dont worry, money has been created for spending. The only secure investment is on a car: all is lost and more required...

"...to replace the engine but..."
- details pls: what was replaced, whats still original?
- if problem is 'original', quite possibly the source is also. Swap...

Error codes: 2 Oxygen Sensors & 1 Evap
- ECU intoxicated?? = vague inputs triggers ghost codes ??
read & work :http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/14
- IF codes constant, no way but repair source
- Evap: maybe leak in vacuum hoses, old hoses have typically cracked ends at engine (hot) connections. Check, cut ½ inch off, reconnect.

Cold Start
- How is TPS?
- If MAF is bad, nothin else, but !good! MAF hlps. Measure. See link page9

.

[spatki1]

My Check Engine Codes are

P0150- ( 02 Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 )

0303
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0303 indicates a problem with the front Oxygen Sensor on the left cylinder bank. The left bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6. A normal signal sweeps back and forth between 0.2 volts and 0.8 volts. This malfunction was detected when the Engine Control Module received a signal from the sensor which was a constant value of approximately 0.3 volts.

Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted).
- Defective Oxygen Sensor


PO 130 ( O 2 Ssensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 )

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0307


DTC 0307 is detected when the closed loop control function for the left bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.


PO443 ( EVAP Emission Control System Purge Vlave C Fault )

0807
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0807 does not appear in the '99 Maxima factory service manual, and that is my principal information source. I'll tell what I know about the '99 Maxima EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve. This information may or may not apply to your Maxima.

The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.

Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.

The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses.

You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.


Does any one of them related for starting troble, or cold start problem?

Are they related to Engine motor ?

Thanks

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by spatki1

...Are they related to Engine motor ?...

O2 is used only after warmup = cannot affect coldstart.

EVAP: any extra (small) air input has small effect. Dont think this is the case here. Bypass this EVAP problem by pinching its vacuum hose close.


Unaswered questions 1-3:

...to replace the engine but..."
1. details pls: what was replaced, whats still original?
- if problem is 'original', quite possibly the source is also. Swap...

2. How is TPS? Has anybody tested?

3. If MAF is bad, nothin else, but !good! MAF hlps. Measure. See link page9

[spatki1]

Unaswered questions 1-3:

...to replace the engine but..."
1. details pls: what was replaced, whats still original?

I asked Mechanic about this , he told me he swap entire Engine.
Now Car is with replaced engine with New Spark plugs, New starte etc..

Dont know what is the source of problem.

2. How is TPS? Has anybody tested?

I asked mechanic to test TPS, he refused it could be a problem , he was suspecting MAFS could be problem

3. If MAF is bad, nothin else, but !good! MAF hlps. Measure. See link page9[/quote]

He ordered New MAFS part , replaced it but unfortunetly it didnt solve the problem. I am frustated here. Now mechanic also givve his hands off & refused to trobleshoot any further, I asked him if Ffuel pump could be problem , he told me its not if it could have problem car could not have run good after it starts. Now he advising me to diagnose it from Nissa n dealer ..........He dont know what could be problem or he wants to get rid of me & Car ......I am helpless now

I dont know what to do now, Now everything is replaced Engine, MAFS, Starter , Spark Plugs etc... what else i should do now, i shown it to atlest 4 diffrent mechanics , nobody can trobleshhot the problem, is that so difficult for mechanics having so many years of experince to diagnose starting troble problem. If i need to take it to Nissan i need to spend 100$ to diagnose again & dont know how much to fix it........

Guide me if anyting else i can do now , i know nobody will buy it as starting trouble problem is easily visible...

Thanks

SP

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by spatki1

...to test TPS, he refused ...

1. "Entire engine" is NOT an answer:
- are coilpacks new
- intake original (no re-installation), TPS, all sensors = are they new and if so, which ones are OLD???
--->This leads to the "original problem": what is it, are symptoms exactlyt the same??? And I mean exact. If so, the current problem lies within "the OLD parts". (Howabout Fuel Pressure?)

2. If the mech refuses to test the most obvious (TPS tst =2minutes), youre in wrong shop. Sorry...

3. Seek this and other forums, you'll see that two dead reman MAF's in a row seems to be more like a rule than exception. And first one to know this, is your repairguy... I guess he has no clue how to tst a MAF, refuses to learn? Let him show how. Next, Return this MAF, demand new. Btw, MAF is an easy DIY replacement...


Getting able servicemen willing to troubleshoot (these currently over-) computerized cars is a problem. Your current service guy has also an attitude problem on top of that, no way to heal his processes... Get out: I'd pay only for mechanical engine drop & re-installation (only if that is ok), meaning for 10hours max, plus the engine. This because he has all resources and car will not still run. Other than that, I'd sue the shop if no agreement. First take (pay?) smbdy who knows about cars with you, try to settle the case, do NOT go alone. Whatever u do, find some local technical & legal advice, that will cost a fraction of the costs looming in the horizon... There has to be some car/consumer associations u can call.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Troubleshootin this kind of totally unknown engine, all settings now definitely haywire, has to start from scratch. And that means ONLY provenly able service guys. Dealership is the la$t place... what will be done, all has to be written down.

First MAF, TPS, CAMPos -sensors have to be tested/proven this -or- that way. Next the engine: compression tst, ign timing, coilpacks, injectors, fuel pressure. One question, I have no answer as details missing: is the engine really compatible with your ECU ('new' ? subharness, sensors).

I hope you'll find a real Nissan mechanic!

.

[spatki1]

Originally Posted by Nahkapohjola

1. "Entire engine" is NOT an answer:
- are coilpacks new
- intake original (no re-installation), TPS, all sensors = are they new and if so, which ones are OLD???
--->This leads to the "original problem": what is it, are symptoms exactlyt the same??? And I mean exact. If so, the current problem lies within "the OLD parts". (Howabout Fuel Pressure?)

2. If the mech refuses to test the most obvious (TPS tst =2minutes), youre in wrong shop. Sorry...

3. Seek this and other forums, you'll see that two dead reman MAF's in a row seems to be more like a rule than exception. And first one to know this, is your repairguy... I guess he has no clue how to tst a MAF, refuses to learn? Let him show how. Next, Return this MAF, demand new. Btw, MAF is an easy DIY replacement...


Getting able servicemen willing to troubleshoot (these currently over-) computerized cars is a problem. Your current service guy has also an attitude problem on top of that, no way to heal his processes... Get out: I'd pay only for mechanical engine drop & re-installation (only if that is ok), meaning for 10hours max, plus the engine. This because he has all resources and car will not still run. Other than that, I'd sue the shop if no agreement. First take (pay?) smbdy who knows about cars with you, try to settle the case, do NOT go alone. Whatever u do, find some local technical & legal advice, that will cost a fraction of the costs looming in the horizon... There has to be some car/consumer associations u can call.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Troubleshootin this kind of totally unknown engine, all settings now definitely haywire, has to start from scratch. And that means ONLY provenly able service guys. Dealership is the la$t place... what will be done, all has to be written down.

First MAF, TPS, CAMPos -sensors have to be tested/proven this -or- that way. Next the engine: compression tst, ign timing, coilpacks, injectors, fuel pressure. One question, I have no answer as details missing: is the engine really compatible with your ECU ('new' ? subharness, sensors).

I hope you'll find a real Nissan mechanic!

.

97 Maxiima TPS is like this

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html


THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)

Well, if you're here, you are probably experiencing some trouble
because the TPS is not a regular maintenance item! Unfortunately
TPS failure seems rather common. It's happened to me, and I see
it in one to two other Maxima enthusiasts a year. Heck when
Edmunds.com was evaluating the new 2K Max, they had problems with
the TPS. And the car was brand-spankin new!


WHAT IS THE TPS?
The throttle position sensor is a potentiometer - a variable resistor.
The ECU sends the TPS a 5V signal. Depending on the position of the throttle,
the TPS will send back to the ECU a voltage proportional to how open the
throttle is.


Here is a pic of the TPS.


This is the back. Notice the metal bracket that connects to the throttle body.
This bracket is rotated by the throttle to change the TPS's internal resistance.


Symptoms: The most obvious is if the TPS just up and dies. You'll get
a check engine light and the 0403 trouble code. (Trouble codes will be
covered at a later date). However, if the TPS is still gasping its last
few breaths, you won't necessarily get the light. But you will get
inexplicable, "spontaneous" drops in RPMs. It's most pronounced when you
are at idle or the engine is coasting to idle after disengaging the clutch.
I have yet to see someone tell of problems when the car was moving/accelerating.

TROUBLESHOOTING:

Here is the TPS in the engine bay (red arrow).

You want to pull out the connector away from you (yellow arrow).
Do this when the engine is OFF.


You will then expose the pins on the connector.


1. Connect the positive lead of your multimeter (voltage checker) to pin 1.
2. Then connect the negative lead to a ground in the engine bay.
3. Turn your key to the ON position (Do NOT start the car)
4. You should see about 5 volts on the multimeter, indicating the ECU is sending
the proper signal.

5. Reconnect the harness to the TPS and start the car.
6. Warm up the car. (This is because heat affects resistance)
7. When warm, turn the engine off, and put the ignition switch to OFF.
8. Connect your meter to pins 2 & 3.
9. With the throttle completely closed(foot off the gas pedal), you should read
about 500 ohms of resistance.
10. Start pushing on the gas pedal - resistance should rise. When the gas is
fully depressed (wide open throttle), the resistance should be about 4000 ohms.
11. If you are slightly off, you can still adjust the TPS to compensate.

12. Notice that the holes that the screws go into on the TPS are slotted, giving
you some clearance. Loosen the screws so that you can turn the TPS in place.
If you can twist the TPS so that the values are correct for the different throttle
positions, retighten the screws - you're done.
13. Otherwise, you are out of luck. Time to pick up a new TPS.

A new TPS will cost about $60-$70. Just unscrew the two screws holding the
old TPS and put the new one in and adjust until the resistances are right.
Then, tighten down the screws.
(Yes, the 2nd screw on the other side not shown in the pic is a pain to unscrew)
(And yes, these are not the OEM screws. I galled the OEM screws unscrewing
them out. These screws are bought from "Home Depot Motorsports" hehe.


It does not like your Cardomain manual links with hole on top, add Ecetronic Cleaner & reseal it. Do I need to add Cleaner into this type of TPS also ?

Thanks

SP

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by spatki1

.... It does not like your ... with hole on top, ...

The 'TPS story' is just so as told above. Functionally theyre equal in 'every car'... Its too common to have broken TPS in brand new cars [factories are only installation lines]. Doesnt matter which car u buy... Obviously new broken TPS doesnt benefit from cleanup, only worn sooty one will. IF. Youre better off buying new, if u doubt it (measure the new one also!).

Check this also for MAF cleanup. There are lots other stories to be found, this one has similar resistor elements as maxima: Cleaning the Mass AirFlow Sensor (MAF) http://www.fordscorpio.info/cleanmaf.htm
Why? Cheap, easy DIY, wont hurt when carefully done...

.

[spatki1]

Originally Posted by Nahkapohjola

The 'TPS story' is just so as told above. Functionally theyre equal in 'every car'... Its too common to have broken TPS in brand new cars [factories are only installation lines]. Doesnt matter which car u buy... Obviously new broken TPS doesnt benefit from cleanup, only worn sooty one will. IF. Youre better off buying new, if u doubt it (measure the new one also!).

Check this also for MAF cleanup. There are lots other stories to be found, this one has similar resistor elements as maxima: Cleaning the Mass AirFlow Sensor (MAF) http://www.fordscorpio.info/cleanmaf.htm
Why? Cheap, easy DIY, wont hurt when carefully done...

.

Hi

Today I have Nissan Dealership diagnose my problem.
Dignosis is Ground between Engine Block & Trasmission is corroded or oxidised which causing erratic signals. Need to remove trasmission, clean corrosion to start . The ECS has old codes stored & they are not relevent. ( MAF & O2 Sensor codes for Check engine light) After cleaning this corrosion they will need futher investigate fr any issues.
Labor cost appx 700$

Dont know what to do, i am thinking of going back to mechanic who installed used engine for me. I know for sure he wont fix it for me easily.

Tell me what i should do .

The remarks about Ground in this forum by someone is finally worthwhile.

Do u see any easy solution apart from cleaning the coroded ground which require to open transmission.?

Thanks

SP

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by spatki1

Hi ...Dealership diagnose ...

Some thing here is either fishy or plain wrong. Luckily (?) theres one thing stealer$hip never gets wrong: maximum billing...
--->Engine & tranny are bolted together; no way they are disconnected and loose 'ground'. If they are, u tranny will simply drop on the autobahn...

Tranny is 95% mechanics & hydraulics. ---> The 5% electrical is the solenoid pack which controls hydraulic valves. These solenoids are copper-coil windings which as energized create magnetism that forces the solenoid steelrods to move, thus open/close the hydraulics valves.

What might be, is that there is a disconnection (broke wire) from one of these coils to their common gnd wire. This can be measured, see explicit explanation for VG tranny type RE4F02A
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24

Your tranny is mechanically different, but 99% electrically equal. Same measurements apply, 15minute check.

Also, the tranny selfdiagnostics should indicate this problem if it exists. You can do this 'tst', it pays to read FSM and go through the procedure.
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/21

Go have a hearthy laugh at the stealership, take u car and ask your mech check for the solenoid coil resistance according the Nissan FSM. Another reason might be the explained low supply voltage syndrome. Check voltage at Tranny Control Unit TCU.

Again, read the manual (got it?). It explains which repairs can be done w/o dropping tranny. In my gearbox, this solenoid valvepack can be changed as the tranny is on. Check also the tranny valve upgrade set on my web page, buy and install IF you end in coilpack swap.

Pls can u repeat your current problem symptoms detailly.

.

[spatki1]

Originally Posted by Nahkapohjola

Some thing here is either fishy or plain wrong. Luckily (?) theres one thing stealer$hip never gets wrong: maximum billing...
--->Engine & tranny are bolted together; no way they are disconnected and loose 'ground'. If they are, u tranny will simply drop on the autobahn...

Tranny is 95% mechanics & hydraulics. ---> The 5% electrical is the solenoid pack which controls hydraulic valves. These solenoids are copper-coil windings which as energized create magnetism that forces the solenoid steelrods to move, thus open/close the hydraulics valves.

What might be, is that there is a disconnection (broke wire) from one of these coils to their common gnd wire. This can be measured, see explicit explanation for VG tranny type RE4F02A
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24

Your tranny is mechanically different, but 99% electrically equal. Same measurements apply, 15minute check.

Also, the tranny selfdiagnostics should indicate this problem if it exists. You can do this 'tst', it pays to read FSM and go through the procedure.
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/21

Go have a hearthy laugh at the stealership, take u car and ask your mech check for the solenoid coil resistance according the Nissan FSM. Another reason might be the explained low supply voltage syndrome. Check voltage at Tranny Control Unit TCU.

Again, read the manual (got it?). It explains which repairs can be done w/o dropping tranny. In my gearbox, this solenoid valvepack can be changed as the tranny is on. Check also the tranny valve upgrade set on my web page, buy and install IF you end in coilpack swap.

Pls can u repeat your current problem symptoms detailly.

.

Hi

The problem is orignal as starting trouble. After turning on Ignition it Ccranks, Crank & cranks attaempt to start but could not start at all. Since last 2 weeks it was starting atleast after 3-4 attaemts but now i tried atleast 15-30 times & it does not start. I am tired now. So I decided to take it to dealer finally as no mechanic around ready to tell & diagnose the problem. I am pouring the hell lot of money but my problem is not geting fixed. Nissan diagnose that the due to coorsion between motor Bottom & Trasmission , the CramShaft Position sesor which is suppose to take 180 degree angle before start & send signals to ECU , its not sending correct signals or cant make that angle enough , sending sporadic signals. There is no part cost involve but only 8 hrs labour to take out trasmission & clean the corrosion. Then they will correct codes for ECU to diagnose further.

Dont know what to do , i dont know much about cars & engine cant do tests what u tell me

Thanks

SP

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by spatki1

... the CramShaft Position sesor which is suppose to take 180 degree angle ...

Ask stealership service about the error code: ECU gives error code P0340 for Camshaft pos sensor problem.

One of the problems here is that Nissan Service manual says that this sensor is not where you are been told, -but- in the front!!! ...and readily accessible. Hmm??? Check out yourself FSM page EC-205. Ask stealership service politely why the manual tells like this. (I know there are cars with campos sensors located as you have been told, and may cause this, I am just wondering why Nissan -97 Manual doesnt say so)

[edit: if u meant cranckshaft pos, its sensor is readily accessible from front, 15min swap time, see page 204]

Unplug this sensor connector, car should start in 'ECU limp -mode' =2200rpm limit. If not, there exists some other problems, also. Ask if this has been tested by service guys.

Ask quotation from your engine repair guy for this sensor swap.

---------------------------------------------------------------
Smtg else:

Theres one reasonably priced widget I'd buy, tells the codes, no installation needed, just push in the tst connector and you will get lots info: check out http://www.scangauge.com/ This may be used in cars you'll possibly buy later, so the 'investment' is not in vain like the money thrown to stealership.

Check out your Private Message:

.