I could CRY!! But it's fixable...

[gabbadude]

klutz, I apologise if I sounded as though I was questioning his invaluable experience, (Which I wasn't as far as I'm concerned) but all I am saying is that he could've phrased his statement a little better without implying that I was supposed to have known that.

I am greatful for all the assistance that is provided in these forums. I just think that he needed to be a little more tolerable.

Build on dudes.....

~* gabbadude *~ out!

[gabbadude]

By the way Klutz, It's a Tamiya kit. After I glued the body I checked for warp and none was visible. So i guess it's still ok.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Was the S2000 immersed in brake fluid to strip it?

I hope everyone who uses brake fluid to strip paint knows that they should wipe or brush it on and don't immerse the part (it's buried in the FAQ's in a link to Bonedigger's test of different strippers). That can/will make all the difference in the world-immersion can lead to broken/damaged/destroyed bodies, while just wiping it on is far less harmful to the plastic itself. I've seen for myself the vast difference in plastic quality after being subjected to both immersion and just wiping the fluid on. Just because you've immersed a body before w/o damage doesn't preclude it from happening to another kit.

I rarely strip paint because generally I've learned how to repair most mistakes and cover over them without drowning the body in too many coats of paint. To me stripping paint is the absolute last resort when/if I can use the paint already in place as a good primer. I've seen many people waste their paint and time by stripping what was essentially a decent paint job with minor problems that could be repaired and covered over with subsequent coats. There's no denying that there is a certain fascination with chemicals and dipping bodies (like 1:1 cars being built at the factory or being restored) and the desire to spray only over a "clean canvas" that's epidemic amongst car modelers

[gabbadude]

In the FAQ it expains that you should dip it. If this is not the case then it needs to be corrected. Not so?

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by gabbadude

In the FAQ it expains that you should dip it. If this is not the case then it needs to be corrected. Not so?

I didn't have the time to wade through every nook and cranny of the FAQ's (which is a royal PITA at times and can confuse newbies as well as oldsters ), but the only thing I saw there was reference to dip a body in a tub CSC, NOT brake fluid-the post was about a totally different type of paint stripper. If you look at post #28 in the FAQ's and go down to the bottom of that post hit the link to Bonedigger's for excellent information on using a variety of paint strippers. It's old information and CSC really isn't as great as it's made out to be, and since that was written some have found 91% rubbing alcohol to be a good stripper for fresh Tamiya sprays, acrylics, and many prepainted styrene models.

Sorry that some people jump all over others for using the FAQ's, they are helpful but they aren't always going to give you the answer you need or make it easy to find what you're looking for.

[gabbadude]

Thanks ZoomZoom. You are correct in saying that it was for CSC. I incorrectly assumed that it was the same procedure for brake fluid. Once again, this should be updated.

Keep well.

[gabbadude]

Some progress on fixing my disaster. I think I did pretty well.

I'm back in business...

Here I glued the 2 parts together:


Here's the putty. I put a bit too much on at first but Who cares about that....:


And here's the result. Aside from the line where the break was, there is no protrusion of the join whatsoever! I am soo relieved!


~*gabbadude *~

[mickbench]

You got away with that.. I will say though, I've dunked many parts in DOT4 and never had that problem, apart from clear parts.. Don't use DOT4 with clear parts.. I did the same thing as what you did.. Or the DOT4 did..!!

[gabbadude]

thanks. What does one use then for clear parts? Should one use brake fluid at all or something else?

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by gabbadude

thanks. What does one use then for clear parts? Should one use brake fluid at all or something else?

Good save!

When you put your primer coat on, it will show up any minor uneveness or faults that are hard to notice at the moment and may need some further putty/rubbing. Grey colour primer is best for this - but I guess you know that.

I hope you NEVER have to strip paint from a clear part
They are a b***h to fix so that the repair is invisible.

I treat my clear parts like the Queen of England's crown jewels
I Keep them in their bags until the last minute or for quick test fits, I handle them in cotton gloves etc etc.
I'm not paranoid, clear parts just hate me!

I have once rescued a windscreen that I got glue onto. I sanded the blemish out with 600 grit, then used micro-mesh progessively finer grades to polish it out and finished off with Maguire's cleaning wax. The remaining blemishes were virtually undetectable.

HTH

stevenski

[exhaust smoke]

Sorry to see that your body shell had cracked, but glad to see that it wasn't that bad, and fixable.

I have stripped paint with DOT4 in the past, and I have found that it does cause the plastic to become brittle. I immersed the whole thing, as I wanted to strip right back to the plastic. I have however found that if you immerse it, then use an old toothbrush to loosen the paint every now and then until the paint has been completely removed as much as possible.

Somethimes I find that it is just trial and error.

[gabbadude]

Yeah, I am really glad I was able to fix it. I am about to lay down some primer. I use only White primer though. I haven't been able to get hold of Grey.

Thanks for you guys advice. It really is helpful...

~*gabbadude *~

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by gabbadude

Yeah, I am really glad I was able to fix it. I am about to lay down some primer. I use only White primer though. I haven't been able to get hold of Grey.

Thanks for you guys advice. It really is helpful...

~*gabbadude *~

Hi!

IMO grey is really much better at showing up irregualrities after sanding down putty etc. (might just be down to my bad eyesight though ).

I just use regular automotive grey primer for plastics to see how things are, correct if necessary, smooth it down with toothpaste and then go with a white primer on top if the body colour would merit it.

You might want to think aboput picking up a can for a coulpe of euros/bucks/pounds/rubles?

[gabbadude]

hehe, yeah. I actually buy all my supplies from hlj. They haven't let me down yet.

Whenever I buy though, they don't have grey primer. I don't know. Maybe it's just me or they don't want me to have grey.

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by gabbadude

Whenever I buy though, they don't have grey primer. I don't know. Maybe it's just me or they don't want me to have grey.

try this but also just check your loclal auto store