90 Ranger won't start after spark plug change

[sindicus]

Ok, I managed to line up the mark on the pulley. Pretty self-explanatory since it had a "TC" on the gauge. Not as hard as I thought it was going to be. It turns out that the plugs were in the correct order on the distributor cap.

I guess the next thing to do is check the codes you referred to Pete and see if they tell me anything.

[Psychopete]

Originally Posted by sindicus

Ok, I managed to line up the mark on the pulley. Pretty self-explanatory since it had a "TC" on the gauge. Not as hard as I thought it was going to be. It turns out that the plugs were in the correct order on the distributor cap.

I guess the next thing to do is check the codes you referred to Pete and see if they tell me anything.

Man, that sucks. It's gotta be something simple... Especially if you were getting pops with the timing off.

Scanning the codes on that truck is even easier than finding top dead center. Look at the bottom right picture on that link I gave you. It's labeled "Hook up for MIL Check Engine and Lincoln Continental Message Center" and displays one connection from the square STI plug to the top right of the trapizoidal shaped plug.

All you basically do is take a piece of wire, even a paper clip, put one end in the square plug and put the other in that top right plug. All you need to do at that point is get into the truck and turn the key on run. The codes will blink out of the check engine light. Just make sure none of it hits gound.

They don't go into much detail though, when they say "goose test", that means to hit the throttle when it tells you to. You may have to make a few attempts, but once you have it, it's incredibly simple.

Here's some examples. The B indicates when the CEL blinks. The . stands for a short delay in time. They will also be repeated.
B...B..........B...B.... (Code: 11, System Pass)
B.B.B.B.B.B.B.B.B...B.B.B.B.B.B..........B.B.B.B.B .B.B.B.B...B.B.B.B.B.B (Code: 96, Fuel pump monitor failure)

Pete

[sindicus]

Pete,

For the codes, which ones should I be looking at. The 2-digit or the 3-digit?

Thanks.

[stuzman]

Originally Posted by sindicus

Thanks for the explanation Pete. It's been raining here off and on for the last couple of days so I haven't been able to get to it, but I should be able to look at it today.

As far as the codes go, I have not checked them, and since the trucks not running, I can't really have them checked . I, unfortunately, am very limited on the tools that I have (just a ratchet set and some screwdrivers). My mechanic was nice enough to let me borrow some of his equipment to run some of the tests. It just cost me the gas to go get them.

I'm curious. Was the truck running initially before the plugs and wires were changed? If so, then I would take another look at the order of your spark plugs wires.

[sindicus]

I did not check it right before I started the work, I now know was a mistake on my part, but it had been running before that. We had the mechanic take a look at it, then drove it back home. It sat for maybe a day or two and then I started working on it.

[sindicus]

OK, struck a bit of a snag trying to locate exactly where I am supposed to use the jumper wire. I am assuming that it's in the engine compartment, but where exactly should I be looking?

Forgive my newbishness....

[krispy420]

Well I found out when I changed my plugs and wires. It was hard to start and was missing real mad. I found a cracked plug I guess the angle was to great and the socket cracked it maybe check the plugs for cracks.

[Psychopete]

Originally Posted by sindicus

OK, struck a bit of a snag trying to locate exactly where I am supposed to use the jumper wire. I am assuming that it's in the engine compartment, but where exactly should I be looking?

Forgive my newbishness....

Near, under, around the air box - passenger side (at least on my 88). There will be a plug with a cap that states 'ECC-IV Self Diagnostic' or something similar.

Pete

[sindicus]

Thanks for the suggestion Krispy. This weekend, I tried replacing all of the plugs and wires with the old ones and it still didn't start, so I did manage to get another good look at the plugs .

The thing that is puzzling, is that it's not really missing anymore, just won't start.

[sindicus]

That's for the 20 on the box Pete. Will take a look ASAP.

[2000mudder]

did you replace one wire at a time or take them all off at once? did you set the correct gap on the plugs? if there is no gap or too little of a gap there will be no spark! did you check the number on the plug against the plug number on the radiator support to see if they match?

[sindicus]

Pete,

I found the locations for the EEC test. They were unplugged when I found them, which got me thinking. Are they supposed to be plugged in to anything?

Thanks.

[sindicus]

OK, update. I ran the tests and these were the results:

(each period counts as 1 sec of time)

1..1....1..1..........1......1..1....1..1

After that, it trails off with nothing for more than 15 seconds. Any thoughts?

[stuzman]

Originally Posted by sindicus

OK, update. I ran the tests and these were the results:

(each period counts as 1 sec of time)

1..1....1..1..........1......1..1....1..1

After that, it trails off with nothing for more than 15 seconds. Any thoughts?

I'm like 2000mudder, were the plug wires changed one at a time, or were they are removed at once and then put back on. I still feel like the order of the wires are off. The code if I can decifer it as 11 means that the system passed and no other codes are present.

In a previous post, you mentioned that the engine is not missing anymore, yet it won't start. How can you tell this when it won't run? I'm just a little confused.

The only other thing that I can think of is that I can remember years ago that I put a rotor on 180 degrees from the way that it should be mounted on a small block Chevy. Although the distributor had a square and round notch to align the rotor, I found out that it was possible to mount it backwards. Since, the vehicle was running before, I knew it had to be something with the installation of the rotor. You need to make absolutely sure that your rotor and wires are installed correctly. It sounds like the vehicle was probably running before the work.

[sindicus]

Well, perhaps I used the wrong term. Still trying to get the "lingo" down. When I said it didn't miss, what I meant was that before, when I would try to start it, it would pop and be very rough. Once I placed the wires in the right order, at least I think it is the right order (1,4,2,5,3,6), the popping and roughness went away.