Correct Method To Clean Egr Valve ?

[bnisbet]

Hey all -

I had originally posted some questions about removing the vacuum hose(s) from the EGR valve on my 1999 Camry - thanks for the responses.

I never really did proceed with replacing the EGR valve (this was back in August!) - but now I'm trying again. I mastered the removal of the hoses - but I'm really having trouble getting at the two bolts (I think 10mm?) that connect the EGR valve to the metal exhaust tube that comes up to meet the bottom of the EGR valve.

I'm soaking those bolts with plenty of liquid wrench and the like and will be trying again in the next few days - but man those bolts are very difficult.

I have also read that the EGR valve can be removed while still attached to the metal exhaust tube (aka remove the whole tube at it's connection point to the engine itself)

I see where that tube connects - with a very large nut. This nut also seems very difficult to get at.

In short - I'm at a loss for removing the EGR valve - very frustrated because it's seems like such an easy 1 for 1 replacement.

I will be picking up a Chilton's manual, but any tricks or other advise greatly appreciated.

One specific question: what tool(s) would be best to get the 10mm bolts turning on the bottom of the EGR valve? Most things I try seem to slip so much.

Thanks -

[jdmccright]

I removed the valve and tube as one piece. Undo the large nut holding the tube to the engine. Then remove the TB bolts and pull the valve free from the TB. The tube end won't come out easy, but it will with enough patience and wriggling. You'll be able to tackle the bolts underneath the valve easier once it is out of the car and in a bench vise, though not really necessary unless it is plugged or significantly encrusted.

While it is out, check the valve for smooth operation using a hand vacuum pump. And as mentioned before, have a new gasket on hand for reinstallation. Hope this helps!

[bnisbet]

Thanks jdmccright -

That nut that fits the metal tube to the engine: It seems a bit daunting to access that. On this particular vehicle (99 camry) - should I expect I can get at that with a combination wrench? Are there any other parts that need to be removed first to provide access to do this?

I don't want to give up on this - but a bit more confirmation will go a long way.

Conversely - I almost more fearful that I won't be able to fit it back on and/or tighten properly - given the constriction. Is that fitting literally as simple as fitting the tube back in and tightening up the nut? Again if I had easy access I would just go for it - but I don't want to get myself into trouble given the difficult access.

Also - I haven't had a chance to pick up Chilton's yet. Do you know the size of that nut?

Again - sorry for all the questions. Many thanks!

[DrewToyota]

if i take the small rubber hoses off of my EGR valve (96 camry 4cyl), should i feel any suction because I dont (the little hoses between the egr modulator with the filter and the EGR valve itself. not feeling any suction ???

so i sent the SeaFoam thru a larger vacuum hose close to the air filter, as well as 1oz with 1 gallon of gasoline. my EGR is showing a check engine status of P0401 egr insufficient flow.

thx

[Augie1988]

Ok this is for all you I was trying what you are and I found out that if you get a can of carb cleaner with a small stra and just to help you take off the long hose and with the engin running spry it till it start to die on you than give it a min to get back to good idial do that three or four times than kill it and spry it just to help let it sit for a bit than run it and see if that helps it did on my 1983 chrysler new Yorker .

[jdmccright]

Spraying into the vacuum hose going to the EGR doesn't direct the cleaner into the EGR valve. It is sucked into the intake manifold and never touches the valve of the EGR. I imagine you had some varnish in the carb or throttle body that was removed when this got sucked in.

Spraying cleaner into the hose barb of the EGR valve also will not work since this is the vacuum actuator part and is air tight separate from the valve by a rubber diaphragm...the cleaner's solvent may even warp or damage the rubber.

Removing the valve is the best way to direct the cleaner onto the encrusted valve itself. With it off the engine, I have filled the tube with cleaner and let it sit then get a slim metal wire (spring steel from old windshield wiper rubbers works great) or bottle brush and scrub/chip away the crud.

Once it is clean enough for the valve to move, test it by applying vacuum with a hand pump. If it leaks down, the valve's diaphragm has an air leak and needs to be replaced.