1st paycheck = new parts?

[scottsee]

I would recomend buying the safc2 first before any fuel mods. Learn first.. 2g fuel system is good enough to max out a 14b.

[mitsu_eclipse95gst]

Just a thought.... Get a DP put it on so all you have to do is cat-back when dec comes.. Or if you want to stay in sleeper mode 3inch DP/w Electronic cut-out friend of mine has it AWSOME.. Your parents would never know

As for the fuel pump thing goes i have been told that if you get the 255HP then you need the FPR but not with the normal 255 like i said this is just what i have been told. I use the FPR

[scottsee]

yes, even with the 255lp

[mitsu_eclipse95gst]

Cool i use the HP so eather way i use FPR lol

[DragonofBC]

I'd rather not try to trick my parents. I would definitely do the exhaust but not if it costs me $1200+ (price of exhaust + insurance payments). I can wait until later. I'm defintely going with the 190 since it will meet my needs as outlined in Scottsee's awesome post. I might get the SAFC also.

[scottsee]

Originally Posted by DragonofBC

I would definitely do the exhaust but not if it costs me $1200+ (price of exhaust + insurance payments)

A full 3in turbo back: RRE EvoIII 02 housing, 3in Megan Racing DP, Megan Racing Muffler, 3in Cat-back (muffler shop) will cost $420-$460.

The QTP 3in is cool, i looked at it. $179 w/ y-pipe. Not bad. It just wasn't for me. I didn't want to spend the extra $200 for a cool factor. 3in w/silensor is fine for my pos!

[DragonofBC]

When I say $1200+ I mean price of exhaust plus the cost of having to pay my own insurance for the next few months. I'm exaggerating a bit but the point is that I can wait 6 months for an exhaust and do other things in the meantime. The price you say though is much lower than I would have expected which makes me really hopeful. I'm going to deal with the fuel system now and do exhaust later.

[scottsee]

Originally Posted by DragonofBC

I'm going to deal with the fuel system now and do exhaust later.

I'm going to like you.

[tsipsi20]

Originally Posted by scottsee

Shut the fuck up! 50+ GPH = overflow. End of story. Want to spread bad information? Log the Fuck off!

Walbro 190 rewired supports the following:

9.5:1 (stock) AFR @ BFP @ 15psi = 44lb/min airflow
10:1 AFR @ BFP @ 15psi = 46lb/min airflow
10.5:1 AFR @ BFP @ 15psi = 49lb/min airflow
11.1:1 (fastest flame speed) AFR @ BFP @ 15psi = 52lb/min airflow
12:1 (RBT)AFR @ BFP @ 15psi = 56lb/min airflow
12.5:1 (good target) AFR @ BFP @ 15psi = 58lb/min airflow
13:1 (LBT)AFR @ BFP @ 15psi = 60lb/min airflow
14.68:1 (Sticho)AFR @ BFP @ 15psi = 68lb/min airflow

The Evo 16g will flow a max of 44lb/min. 255lp or hp is not nessessary!

Expect your BFP to be around 50psi if you use a Walbro 255hp and no AFPR. Over runing your FPR like that would turn a set of 660cc's into 710cc's. Not only would you have a major problem trying to get 660's dialed in correctly with a SAFC2 but you would never be running a correct AFR. Tuning would be a nightmare!! Thats not worth it! Spend the $130 and get an Aermotive afpr. Turn down the pressure, add a -6an return line, and screw a gauge into the gauge port. End of story.

Oh yeah 660cc's & reired 190 is a great combo. 190 flows a little the 1-2% more then the 660's are capable of. good combo.

A simple, I don't agree with what you said would have worked dickhead. No one around my area uses a FPR, and judging by their advice, the advice of slowboy directly who said you don't need it, and the advice of others on this forum who have agreed with me, I stick by my original post which clearly stated "IS NOT ESSENTIAL". I'm glad you have the stats to back yourself up, more power to you, but I won't be getting a FPR anytime soon. My key words were "IS NOT ESSENTIAL"... learn to read or log yourself the fuck off

[kjewer1]

My standard answer is that it is up to the owner to decide if it is needed or not. If you don't mind having no control of fuel pressure at idle and cruise (up to about 7 psi), tuning around it, and having bollixed trims, it's not needed. If on the other hand you want the ECU to be doing what it is supposed to do, trims to be centered, and tuning to make sense, it is needed.

Either way works, as in the car will run. And WOT is not affected.