Engine knocking then quit running altogether

[gmyoyo]

Got it, I'll look when I get home...

[gmyoyo]

Well, the engine did turn over...

So that being said. I went ahead and pulled the upper plenum. The gas deposits and washing on the passenger side confirmed the leaking injectors. I made the switch of all parts (LT that T-30 screw on the back of the plenum was a b!itch, you just have a better attitude) But everything else was pretty straight forward. I was very methodical and it took roughly half a day or 6 hours (once again, very, very methodical and deliberate). I checked the pressure prior to intstalling plenum and yes it went to 60 psi and held stead after the 2 second pulse of fuel.

Now, the bad news. It cranked and still is making the nasty metallic banging sound I heard before, I guess the damage has been done further downstream after all.

My question is, what am I looking at now? It still knocking, and (not sure how to describe it) squeling/screeching. So, I'm thinking it's beyond my capabilities and I"m going to get it into a shop.

I don't believe I wasted money, unless I change engines, because this work had to be done, but like I said now I'm at a point that is probably beyond my abilities...

I would appreciate any and all advice prior to me calling around so I can somewhat know what to expect in these conversations and recommendations by the local (and trusted from what I understand) automotive garage.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by gmyoyo

Well, the engine did turn over...

So that being said. I went ahead and pulled the upper plenum. The gas deposits and washing on the passenger side confirmed the leaking injectors. I made the switch of all parts (LT that T-30 screw on the back of the plenum was a b!itch, you just have a better attitude) But everything else was pretty straight forward. I was very methodical and it took roughly half a day or 6 hours (once again, very, very methodical and deliberate). I checked the pressure prior to intstalling plenum and yes it went to 60 psi and held stead after the 2 second pulse of fuel.

Now, the bad news. It cranked and still is making the nasty metallic banging sound I heard before, I guess the damage has been done further downstream after all.

My question is, what am I looking at now? It still knocking, and (not sure how to describe it) squeling/screeching. So, I'm thinking it's beyond my capabilities and I"m going to get it into a shop.

I don't believe I wasted money, unless I change engines, because this work had to be done, but like I said now I'm at a point that is probably beyond my abilities...

I would appreciate any and all advice prior to me calling around so I can somewhat know what to expect in these conversations and recommendations by the local (and trusted from what I understand) automotive garage.

I'm guessing, but I'd say you possibly threw a rod. That means that the bearing on one (or More) of your connecting rods has been Worn excessively out due to lack of oil or has loosend. So what you are hearing is the crank shaft and the connecting rod beating each other or KNOCKING every time the crank rotates. If this is the case, you have a couple of different options. You can either repair the existing engine or swap it out.

For my money, if indeed you have thrown a rod, I'd look into buying a long block. That is basically a rebuilt engine block and head assembly that you would remove everything from your old engine right down to the dipstick and re-install it on your new block. You can usually find these long blocks and also mechanics willing to install them at any reputable parts store or garage. I haven't done one in a long time but I'd guess that you would be looking at $1000-$1500 USD for the Long block. More than likely if you do that, you won't be wasting the money you spent on the Nut Kit. Labor would be extra.

[BlazerLT]

Can you post a sound clip of this noise?

Check all plugs, you might have a fouled plug not firing.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Can you post a sound clip of this noise?

Check all plugs, you might have a fouled plug not firing.

Based on the description of the noise, It sounds too much like a thrown rod. Spark plugs don't Squeal. But I've been wrong before. I have had to replace the nut kit on my 1993 twice and neither time did it knock. I guess I got lucky, but the combination of the Seafoam loosening up all the crud in this engine and then diluting the oil with gas probably did it in.

[gmyoyo]

Just based on the sound I have to agree with Rick. It just sounds that way, I can recheck the plugs.

Sound byte huh? It's worth a try so I'll have to look into that one...I might have a camera here at work that will record that for me...

[herkyhawki]

Pull off one plug wire at a time and run the engine. If it's a connecting rod bearing, the knock will quiet down when that plug is not firing.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by herkyhawki

Pull off one plug wire at a time and run the engine. If it's a connecting rod bearing, the knock will quit down when that plug is not firing.

I think you mean Quiet down not Quit when you pull the plug wire on the offending cylinder.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by gmyoyo

Just based on the sound I have to agree with Rick. It just sounds that way, I can recheck the plugs.

Sound byte huh? It's worth a try so I'll have to look into that one...I might have a camera here at work that will record that for me...

Any news? Have you been able to determine what your noise is yet? Keep us posted!

[gmyoyo]

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

Any news? Have you been able to determine what your noise is yet? Keep us posted!

No not yet. I'm looking into getting a sound byte, yet I still have that bad feeling you may be right.

It makes the noise even with all the belt unattatched, it's definitely internal...

I did have a buddy mention he had a coworker who just so happened to have a vortec v6 sitting in his garage. He had apparently removed one from a truck and replaced it with something for more of a racing or hot-rod engine. The one he took out wasn't neccesarily bad I don't believe.

I'm going to look into that as an option once I know for sure if I need one, but I was wondering what kind of range I have as far as year model, or does it even matter?

I'm thinking it's going to have to be a 95 or older with the computer and everything else, or am I mistaken??

I will keep up here what I do, whichever way I go. I just haven't been able to do anything so far this week...

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by gmyoyo

No not yet. I'm looking into getting a sound byte, yet I still have that bad feeling you may be right.

It makes the noise even with all the belt unattatched, it's definitely internal...

I did have a buddy mention he had a coworker who just so happened to have a vortec v6 sitting in his garage. He had apparently removed one from a truck and replaced it with something for more of a racing or hot-rod engine. The one he took out wasn't neccesarily bad I don't believe.

I'm going to look into that as an option once I know for sure if I need one, but I was wondering what kind of range I have as far as year model, or does it even matter?

I'm thinking it's going to have to be a 95 or older with the computer and everything else, or am I mistaken??

I will keep up here what I do, whichever way I go. I just haven't been able to do anything so far this week...

I'm not sure about years and models, and your probably right about all the electronics and on-board computers.

But if you want my two cents, I'd look for a rebuilt long block that is made for your truck and will fit your truck. Most rebuilders will back-up what they sell.

My biggest fear would be that I'd spend all the time and trouble to swap out the engine only to find that I've just traded one problem for another.

Have you priced out a Long Block yet?

[DaveLance]

gmyoyo, you said that you replaced the plugs and wires. Are you sure that the wires are lined up correctly with the proper terminal on the distributor?
When I did my first Blazer tune up, I mistakenly mixed up the 1 & 3 wires and the engine ran rough and sounded like someone was banging on it with a hammer. Just something to check.

[BlazerLT]

Yip, I would check that.

[gmyoyo]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Yip, I would check that.

Thanks, I will double ensure that the plugs are going to the right place...
Can't until tonight so it will be tomorrow before I come back with and answer...

No I haven't done any pricing yet. Any ideas and suggestions on where I would go to find that kind of information (should it come down to that) would be appreciated...

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by gmyoyo

Thanks, I will double ensure that the plugs are going to the right place...
Can't until tonight so it will be tomorrow before I come back with and answer...

No I haven't done any pricing yet. Any ideas and suggestions on where I would go to find that kind of information (should it come down to that) would be appreciated...

Do you live near a big city? If so, which one?

If you go to a NAPA parts store that has been around for a while, I'm sure they can direct you to a local rebuild shop, or help you find a long block.

The key thing is to do your home work. Price them out and try to find the ones that replace the most components with new parts, longest warranty, etc.