Saturn SL2 won't start-not the starter

[ronaldk]

i figure since op has not reposted since my last post of 6-25-09 they either fixed with all info and did not tell us or pushed of the cliff they spoke of!?

[ehidalgo01]

I'm currently looking for the thingmabob dnunez mentioned. I am sure that is also what is prevent the car from turning on. When i turn on the ignition the car just makes a clicking sound.
On past occasions my car has done this I wiggled the battery connectors and it would get fixed. This time it has not been enough.

[ronaldk]

ehidelgo01 you should start a new post, this post is old and you will not get the response you should. That said I will say if you have been wiggling your batt terms for along time you may have a bad battery because with bad connections on you terminals your batt doesn't get a chance to charge, also you put strain on alternator. I would take terms off wire brush ,put charge on batt and pray.

[ehidalgo01]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! WHOOOO HOOOO..Thanks Dnunez69
http://enoel.posterous.com/solution-...arting-problem

Here is the picture of the thingamabob. It is in the back of the engine compartment. if you need more info you can always drop a comment.

While you are under the car check for cables that are rubbing, I found two in pretty bad conditions.

[RC1488]

So thats the canister purge solenoid. I suppose that if it was disconnecter, or the hose has a hole in it that connects it to the throttle body, it can alter the proper air/fuel ratio. Thus not allowing your car to start

[ehidalgo01]

Originally Posted by RC1488

So thats the canister purge solenoid. I suppose that if it was disconnecter, or the hose has a hole in it that connects it to the throttle body, it can alter the proper air/fuel ratio. Thus not allowing your car to start

No, I believe the problem has to do with the location of the connector. Three days before my car began having problems I had to put oil and as always my hand moved and i spilled some, which i can assure fell into that plug. Since saturn are notorious for burning oil you can deduce that after so many years this little plug has been bathed several times in oil. Hence, if you remove the plug and clean it a little bit, it solves the problem. This is pure electrical problem.

[RC1488]

Originally Posted by ehidalgo01

No, I believe the problem has to do with the location of the connector. Three days before my car began having problems I had to put oil and as always my hand moved and i spilled some, which i can assure fell into that plug. Since saturn are notorious for burning oil you can deduce that after so many years this little plug has been bathed several times in oil. Hence, if you remove the plug and clean it a little bit, it solves the problem. This is pure electrical problem.

The starter circuit is separate from all other circuits. Actually the PCM is on a separate circuit also from it. As in, any issues with the car cranking over the PCM will not throw codes or even know there is an issue. That connector goes to the PCM.

Regardless I'm just curios to know how that connector disabled the starter from turning.

[ehidalgo01]

Here you go. Hope this helps a little bit better to the discussion. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m.../ai_n21100412/
"I have emphasized in previous articles that a typical purge solenoid valve is normally off (electrically) and normally closed (mechanically). The valve should be pulsed open and closed only during an evap purge cycle. It's also pulsed during an evap monitor on systems that are tested with engine vacuum. If the purge solenoid valve leaks for any reason, the engine gets an enormous, unwanted sncxitful of fuel vapor. Although this extreme rich condition is temporary, experience shows it actually may prevent the engine from starting! For example, this has occurred on some Hyundai Sonatas equipped with leaking purge solenoid valves. Like the Audi A6 I just mentioned, these Sonatas with the leaking purge valves could also suffer from hard starting (long crank times)"

[RC1488]

^^^ Precisely my point!

The EVAP system (regardless of part) may hinder the car starting or its actual running conditions, but it will NOT stop the car from Cranking over. Note cranking over (crankshaft turning) and starting (engine runs on its own power) are two different terms.

In the article it talks about long cranking periods, rough idle, SES codes, but NO mention of the car NOT cranking at all which was the original issue by the OP

So still I wonder why that connector to the solenoid stopped the starter from working.

[ronaldk]

Originally Posted by ehidalgo01

I'm currently looking for the thingmabob dnunez mentioned. I am sure that is also what is prevent the car from turning on. When i turn on the ignition the car just makes a clicking sound.
On past occasions my car has done this I wiggled the battery connectors and it would get fixed. This time it has not been enough.

I agree with RC1448 his first post was #17. And as in red he states no turn over. Glad he has solved his problem but this solution is news to me as well. I looked at the articile and I too am confused I will have to look at electric wire diagram (if my book shows ) just to see how it could effect starter circuit. If this acually can cause no turn over it will have to be addressed. I hope my book has schematic I would like to say this is possible or not. P/S I will not loss sleep if I dont have schematic but it will stick in the back of my head though.

Just looked at haynes book and starter diagram, the purge solinoid is not in its circuit. But maybe he is mistaken about the clicking part of post. The info on purge canister flooding eng is interesting and note worthy. thanks for your input. There is another fairly new post that by symtom may have this problem.

[jferiola]

Having the same problem with a 2002 SC2. Changed everything so far. Car powers up when it feels it wants to. Checked everything. Changed battery, alternator, Starter, cables connectors, list goes on and on. Every once and a while it'll happen but the car will work for about a month or 2. Then just like that won't start. The funny thing is my gf will be using it all day and it just will go on her. No crank over no turn over no nada. No stupid chime. No lights. Thankfully its our 3rd car but so nice on gas and a great commuter. Its 5spd. Also changed relay switch and igntion in the steering rack. Worked for 2 months then same problem. Been following this forum for a while and all inquires made have been very helpful. Make matters even funnier (and worse) i'm a manager at a high volume body shop. My techs are puzzled and dont even wanna help me work on it (not that i blame them). I've been looking for the electric relay diagrams and what not but anyone in the bizz knows that those books are like gold and no one wants to give them up for an hour. Gonna try the "thingamabob" next see if that helps...if not back to square one. or we could just burn it and get the $500 from insurance lol jk

[ehidalgo01]

Mechanically SC2 have not changed that much over the years so you may have the same problem. Let us now how everything goes. My car did the same thing again and needeless to say I just pulled the thingimabob a couple of times.lol

[stang_2003]

Add me to the list of intermittently not cranking or starting.

1999 SC1 automatic.
It starts up fine most of the time, but every now and then if you turn it off, come back in 5 minutes or so and try to start the car it will not crank.
Leave it for 1/2 hour or so and it will then start.

1. Battery good. All connections to battery clean. Lights ok etc.
2. Click from a relay in the box under the hood.
3. NO CLICK from starter solenoid.
4. Wiggling the shift lever may or may not make it work because I'm not sure if it's just the fact that it's been sitting a while or the wiggling that makes it start.

This just started happening and I suspect the PND switch is the culprit because when we first bought the car a few months ago it threw a "transmission out of range" code, which indicated that same switch.

I cleared it and it never did it again though so it might just be a coincidence.

I've been working on cars for 40 years and have all the tools but Saturn is a new one for me.

Can anyone confirm that the PND switch is accessed from the driver's side wheel well after removing tire and splash shield?

Thanks!

Steve

[denisond3]

Yes the PND switch is on the backside of the transmission, and probably reachable from the drivers side wheel well, with tire and splash guard removed. Personally I would have figured on removing the battery and battery tray, and working from above. Its not a location I would describe as easy to get to - from any angle.

Please let us know how it goes, and what you find out. I have two SL2 sedans in the family, so will likely encounter your problem someday.

[stang_2003]

Originally Posted by denisond3

Yes the PND switch is on the backside of the transmission, and probably reachable from the drivers side wheel well, with tire and splash guard removed. Personally I would have figured on removing the battery and battery tray, and working from above. Its not a location I would describe as easy to get to - from any angle.

Please let us know how it goes, and what you find out. I have two SL2 sedans in the family, so will likely encounter your problem someday.

Thanks denisond3 !!

I'll probably be working on it this week, weather permitting, and will keep the board updated.

Steve