b16a1 ecu/vtec solenoid problem

[5_LiTeR_EaTeR]

okay take these steps... First off you jumped the vtec solenoid so you know it works for sure. make sure your vtec oil pressure switch is in working order. Run the car to operating temperature then check for continuity between the 2 pins in the oil pressure switch. If it reads anything you are good if not replace it but usually it will throw a code. Also Make sure you are getting code 21.... lol, may sound dumb sorry, it may seem offensive but we all make mistakes... Then check the wiring back to the ECU. Pull the carpet over and undo the 4 bolts to the shield covering the computer... Now is a good time to redrill a hole in it so you can see the LED and check for codes without taking the cover off for a PR3 Computer. Now make sure you got it in the right pin to the ECU its pin "A8". Honda computer pins read right to left odd numbers on top and even on bottom. so it should be on the 4th one from the right on the bottom. Now Make sure you have a good connection to the ecu. tug on the wire a lil bit see if it pulls out. usually if you Cooterized it like mine the pin I used was too short and didn't reach the pin on the ecu therfore not making a connection. undo that white clip inside of the plug and pull the wire out. make sure you have no breaks in the wire and recheck all of your splices if you made any. That should cover everything! All there is to that circuit is the vtec solenoid Vtec sol. ground and the wire going to the ecu. OHH YEAH CHECK THAT GROUND!!! I grounded my vtec sol to my clutch cable bracket but you can ground it to the head or something. It just made mine easier to work with cuz it was a longer wire. Let me know how things go and I hope you get that working!!!! GOOD LUCK!!! VTEC IS ADDICTING!!!

~Alex~

[B16a4me]

or you can do what I did. Sick of trying to please the @#%$#@ computer I bought a Autometer shift light module. Fitted to car and wired to relay to actuate VTEC. Unit has replacable "pills" that can engage VTEC at (In my case) 5000, 5200, 5400, 5600 or 5800.
Now my VTEC "kick in" point is UP TO ME!!!!!!!!
Module can handle loads up to 1 amp. Only takes about 30 to 50 milliamps to actuate relay so there shouldn't be any problems.

[Moppie]

Your actualy missing out setting the change over to one point.
(keep it at 5,000rpm)
The ECU varys the change point between 4,800 and 5,200 depending on gear, engine load, and road speed.
Means less chance of getting a flat spot coming out of a corner, and better economy when driving fast.




And 5_LiTeR_EaTeR that is an awsome bit of trouble shooting!

[B16a4me]

I don't think PR3 computers take that into consideration (but I could be wrong)

How would the computer know what gear I'm in???

[ricodemus]

yeah, 5_liter's steps were almost exactly what we did a few times, still with no good result...the helms manual pretty much outlines it the same, and the end verdict was the ecu is faulty.

[5_LiTeR_EaTeR]

Thanks Moppie! I think if your ecu was faulty it would be throwing codes like crazy. Usually a faulty ecu won't throw just one code but numerous ones. I think its sorta crazy and weird that if you popped the ecu it would only make the vtec not work. Funny but it is a possibility. What you want to go and do now is take the ecu out and find someone with with a CRX or Civic with a b16a or a integra maybe and see if that will throw codes and vtec not work. Don't put theirs in yours because you could end up blowing theirs if there is a short somewhere. I say FUGG it get a really big tach and hook the vtec solenoid to a toggle switch lol j/k... don't go and do that but it would be cool and still work!!!

[ricodemus]

I understand your concern but the ecu isnt even throwing a code for the second 02 sensor which isnt even hooked up. I dont know anyone around here that has a pr3 or pw0, so I just bought another. if both ecus are good, I'll just throw one on ebay, no big deal. we'll see